Can I get a Valet key for my 2010 XLT?

[Timbo]

It would be nice to have a spare key I could stick in a key-safe somewhere under the van that would unlock the doors.  

That way I could hide my spare key / fob inside the vehicle, under the dash or in some other hidden / hard to find place.  

 

Is there a simple, flat, metal key I can get that only unlocks the doors?  I'm pretty sure the ignition key has a chip in it, so a simple, flat key wouldn't be able to start the engine.  

It would, however, be easier to hide in a small, out-of-the-way place, like in a Hide-A-Key box, stuck to a frame-rail under the van.  

 

I'd rather not put the expensive, fob-equipped ignition key in the key-safe if at all possible.  

Edited June 9, 2018 by Timbo

[DonShockley]

I have an extra dumb key for my 2015 in my wallet. But due to the special nature of the TC keys, it had to be bought and cut at the dealership. I know the first gen used a different style, but it's likely available those too. Just ask for a non-transponder key and they should be able to get one. Mine was around $10 IIRC and I made sure to include it in the purchase deal even though my TC included the two extra fob keys. 

[Timbo]

Wow, only $10??  My local Ford dealer wants $44 for the key.  

[windguy]

I tried to get a 'dumb key' after I got the van but had no luck locally.

The dealer said they could order the key blank but didn't have the laser machine to cut it and said the cost is very expensive and the tooling doesn't last very long, adding to the expense.

They said they use another car dealer (?Mazda) that had the machine to make the keys. The whole process seems ludicrous for a simple key.

I ended up adding a keypad, which I was going to do anyway. So between that and the extra fobs I had ordered with the van it was good enough.

 

[Timbo]

19 hours ago, windguy said:

 

They said they use another car dealer (?Mazda) that had the machine to make the keys. The whole process seems ludicrous for a simple key.

 

 

I wonder if it was Jaguar?  I found an article that said only Ford and Jaguar use the "Tibbe" style key found in the TC.  

 

Having any sort of service done at a Jaguar dealer would certainly explain the high cost.  Having the Ford dealer send the key to the Jaguar dealer, pay their fee then turn around and mark up the cost 100%, explains the crazy cost of going that route.  

 

I didn't realize you could install a keypad on the TC.  Something else to consider, thanks.  

Edited June 10, 2018 by Timbo

[Timbo]

Wow, the keypad just sticks to the door with adhesive??  I would have thought you had to drill a couple of holes in the door to secure it. 

 

I'm not sure I like the idea that it can just be peeled off the door, or fall off, over time, if it gets wet.  

 

 

.

 

 

Edited June 10, 2018 by Timbo

[windguy]

@timbo - The keypad is great. I use it all the time because I surf and windsurf in the ocean and don't want to stash my fob or carry it in a waterproof pouch.

If I lose my fob for some reason, I always have a way to get inside the van where I have a spare key stashed.

As you can see from the pic below, I mounted mine on the rear door because that's what I mostly use for getting gear in/out and the location is most accessible.

You first program the keypad like a normal keyfob and then mount it anywhere with adhesive. Don't think it will come off on it's own.  Battery is supposed to last 5+ years, I think.

There is another thread about setting up the keypad (see link below). Very easy process.

 

http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/2991-keyless-entry-keypad/?tab=comments#comment-8793

 

 

[DonShockley]

On 6/9/2018 at 1:00 PM, Timbo said:

Wow, only $10??  My local Ford dealer wants $44 for the key.  

Went back and looked at my paperwork on the extras I wanted included in the purchase deal. The dumb key was actually $27, the $10 was for the standard lug nuts to replace the locking ones.

[Cooper]

Here's a weird one.

I purchased and programmed the keypad for my 2016 Connect. Checked the locking and unlocking and everything worked fine.

Then I placed it under the back door handle and went to unlock the van and it wouldn't unlock. The locking worked but the unlocking didn't.

After a few agonizing moments of taking it off the van I went over by the driver's door and it worked fine. So then I went to the back again and tried it under the handle.

No unlocking.

If I went higher or lower on the door it worked fine but directly under the handle like in the windguy video above, the keypad would not unlock.

I don't know if there's something in that area blocking the signal but definitely try the location you want to use before peeling off the adhesive!

[windguy]

On 9/2/2018 at 5:21 PM, Cooper said:

Here's a weird one.

I purchased and programmed the keypad for my 2016 Connect. Checked the locking and unlocking and everything worked fine.

Then I placed it under the back door handle and went to unlock the van and it wouldn't unlock. The locking worked but the unlocking didn't.

After a few agonizing moments of taking it off the van I went over by the driver's door and it worked fine. So then I went to the back again and tried it under the handle.

No unlocking.

If I went higher or lower on the door it worked fine but directly under the handle like in the windguy video above, the keypad would not unlock.

I don't know if there's something in that area blocking the signal but definitely try the location you want to use before peeling off the adhesive!

 

That sure is strange. Sorry to hear about your woes.

 

My keypad has been mounted for 3.5 years, since I got the van, and I have had no problems with it mounted as shown in the pic above.

You would think it would be act like the regular key fob on a proximity basis, just not with the same range perhaps. I have no idea where the sensor(s) are located that pick up the signal from the fob and if there is more than one.

 

I do remember when first using the keypad, it took me a while to get used to the unlocking sequence. It's 5 numbers and you have to press with the right pressure and timing. Too slow or fast and it won't unlock. Once you get the rhythm down, then your unlock successes go up quickly to the point of rarely needing a do-over. The unlock was never a problem since your are pressing the right two buttons at the same time. No timing involved. Also, that location on the van has a little bit of bounce due to the soft body panel. For me it was the best location to mount the keypad.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 5, 2018 by windguy

[windguy]

45 minutes ago, windguy said:

 

That sure is strange. Sorry to hear about your woes.

 

My keypad has been mounted for 3.5 years, since I got the van, and I have had no problems with it mounted as shown in the pic above.

You would think it would be act like the regular key fob on a proximity basis, just not with the same range perhaps. I have no idea where the sensor(s) are located that pick up the signal from the fob and if there is more than one.

 

I do remember when first using the keypad, it took me a while to get used to the unlocking sequence. It's 5 numbers and you have to press with the right pressure and timing. Too slow or fast and it won't unlock. Once you get the rhythm down, then your unlock successes go up quickly to the point of rarely needing a do-over. The unlock was never a problem since your are pressing the right two buttons at the same time. No timing involved. Also, that location on the van has a little bit of bounce due to the soft body panel. For me it was the best location to mount the keypad.

 

 

 

 

Can't edit my own post and want to correct a mistake, as shown below.

 

I said "The unlock was never a problem since your are pressing the right two buttons at the same time. No timing involved"

THAT SHOULD BE LOCK, NOT UNLOCK.