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Posted (edited)

OK then, I'm officially confused. Everything I've seen here on LED headlight upgrades mention an H11 base ...

 

pgj19-2_h11_wm.jpg

 

So I got a pair, only to dig into the TC and find what look to be H13 bases.

h13_base_cit_wm.jpg

 

So, did they change the headlight configuration and wiring on the Gen Two's? Looks to me like my 2011 has combined high and low on the main bulb? The housings still have the smaller H9 bulb that I assUme is only used on high beam, but the main bulb looks to have dual filaments. 

 

Hep me, please! 

Edited by sKiZo

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Gen 1 is H4 afaik.

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Nope ... definitely three pins in a line. Just not sure if that arrangement comes in different sizes.

 

Suppose I can trust Amazon? They also seem to think it's a high/low beam. Maybe the earlier TC's had two bulbs burning on high?

 

headlight-bulb.jpg

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H13 LED are typically more difficult to install. If you get low beam on one side, with high beam on opposite side, the final installed position is with the low beam on top.  If the L ED  has high and low beams on both sides, the final installed position is with the LED chips facing sideways @ 3&9.  Some units are adjustable.  But if the LED are not in the correct position, then your lights will not properly illuminate the road.

 

I'm currently using dual color LED in H13. Low beam is daylight white. High beams are amber.  When driving in snow or fog, the amber color headlights are unbelievable.  Also highly effective when used with wig wag flashers.

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Something to look out for, but wondering how it would be possible to install them backwards, as the socket is offset ...

 

Which bulbs did you use that are bi-color? Sounds like an interesting way to go.

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You are not installing them backwards.  What happens is when they leave the factory, the lamps were never designed for your vehicle.  So when you line up the notches and turn the lamp into it's final position, it is a little bit different in every vehicle.  If you're not lucky, you will get an LED meant for low beam driving facing 7-8 o'clock position.  This will point your low beam off the reflector, and into the sky to your left.  Then your high beam LED will be the exact opposite, aimed at the ground, and to the right.  So H13 are adjustable, and that is what you want.  You need the low beam LED to point up at 12, so that the reflector directs the light evenly towards the road.  

 

Google "dual color led H13" and you should get all sorts of results.  Here is a headlight which allows you to use a smart phone app to control the color temperature.

71GFgyZOkqL._SL1000_.jpg

 

I use something similar to these.  Different brand sellers.  But all from the same factory.

 

 

61A877eYYfL._SL1000_.jpg

 

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OK then ... ordered a pair of the AuxBeam NF-B2's (H13 - 9008) ... wish me luck!

 

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Posted (edited)

Fun facts that one would have thought would be stressed in the directions that come with the bulbs. I had to go digging some to get this stuff.

 

LED headlight bulbs will have two sets of emitters, one on each side of the bulb. These need to be adjusted to face 3 and 9 o'clock as Fifty150 mentioned earlier, or better yet, parallel to the ground if you've an odd shape headlamp. There's an allen wrench provided so you can loosen the mount and turn the bulb as needed. Best bet is to install it with that screw loose, then turn and mark the bulb. Remove it, tighten it up and yer good. 

 

But wait ... there's more!

 

Dual element bulbs have another trick you have to remember so you match the beams to the headlight's orientation. You'll see a shield built into the bulb - that has to go BELOW the emitters when installed. You can also see here the allen screw I mentioned earlier.

 

LED-headlight.jpg

 

Directions that came with the bulbs were next best thing to useless, so maybe good to know for anyone else doing this. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and report back with the results.

 

Oh - as Fifty150 mentioned earlier, you can get all sorts of weirdness if you don't align the bulbs properly. Here's a good example with the dual colors and one of the bulbs installed bass ackwards ...

 

good-vs-bad-orientation1.jpg?w=800

Edited by sKiZo

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How are those dual color lamps working out for you?

 

I really like them on my F-150.

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Kind of on hold right now. The van's in the shop getting converted to a mini-camper ... gonna raise the roof a foot, get some slider windows and a fan installed,  retractable steps for the side doors, and a step bumper on the back. Should be interesting to see how that all works out.

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Sounds like you are sending it to Chip Foose.  I can't wait to see what the retractable steps look like.  With the van being only 8" off the ground, that will be very interesting.

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Posted (edited)

Nope ... local guy. I checked all the body shops around here, and nobody wanted to take on the project ... liability issues, etc etc ad nauseum.  Harumph ... no sense of adventure, right? Guy does a lot of custom body work, race cars and such, and a friend set me up. When told what I wanted to do, he said "never done anything like that ... sounds like fun!" 

 

Got all the parts together and it's in his shop now. Photoshopped a couple pics, passed on some notes, tips and tricks I gathered off the net and keeping my fingers crossed it turns out something like this. I told him, bonus points if it don't leak when it's done. <G>

 

These started out as the dealer pics of the actual vehicle.

 

transit-mods-v12.jpg

TC-rear-windows.jpg

 

PS ... I figured the ground height might be a problem. The single steps I got tuck in pretty tight. Plan is to use a couple plastic platforms I picked up at an RV dealer to give two steps up. Shop guy will yell if he figures there's gonna be clearance issues, and then I can figure out a Plan B ... I'm an amputee, so I'd like to have a max of four inch steps for ease of access. Once the shell is done, I'll figure out where to go on the interior, and expect to put a retractable rail of some sort, or at least grab bars as well.

 

Edited by sKiZo

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