TC281 Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 I have a 2014 Ford Transit Connect XLT. Long story short, I've been having a parasitic draw problem for awhile now (over a year). Pulled all fuses in 2 occasions trying to find what circuit is causing it. Amps never went down. Last time I did this (pulled all fuses and relays), the instrument cluster and radio no longer turned on. Double checked that fuse and it's not broken. Did a little digging and found out that a few fuses, in the box behind the glove box, are not receiving power. F69 5 amp - Instrument Cluster F71 10 amp - Heating Control Head F79 15 amp - Audio unit, touchscreen, door lock switch, hazard flasher switch F82 20 amp - Washer pump (ground fuse) F83 20 amp - Central locking (ground fuse) F84 20 amp - Double locking (ground fuse) So I would assume the wire providing power to those fuses is broken or touching metal somewhere between the battery and fuse box. Seems odd that random fuses are out, so maybe it's not that?? My Question - What wire is providing power to that fuse box? Is it one of the wires in the high current battery junction box (in front of battery)? Any other suggestions or things to look for are appreciated. Thank you for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 Try this put all the fuses and Relays, Then disconnect the battery for 1 minute and see if that does a reset. I use this when the battery gets low and the clock won't reset. It might help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willygee Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 These are some normal reads.What are yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TC281 Posted November 6, 2023 Author Share Posted November 6, 2023 On 11/3/2023 at 8:54 PM, G B L said: Try this put all the fuses and Relays, Then disconnect the battery for 1 minute and see if that does a reset. I use this when the battery gets low and the clock won't reset. It might help. My battery has been disconnected many times. I’m at the point where if I don’t disconnect it, I’ll come out to a dead battery in the morning. But just to be certain, it’s always the positive cable. Would removing the negative be better for a reset? Thank you for your response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TC281 Posted November 6, 2023 Author Share Posted November 6, 2023 (edited) On 11/3/2023 at 9:56 PM, Willygee said: These are some normal reads.What are yours? I forget the exact reading, but last time I checked it was way over 50mA. I’ll check again tomorrow. I’m just at a lost since pulling all the fuses didn’t cause the mA to drop. Could a frayed wire touching metal cause an issue like I’m experiencing? Thank you for your reply. Edited November 6, 2023 by TC281 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted November 6, 2023 Share Posted November 6, 2023 Are you waiting 5-10 minutes for the ECU to go to sleep? Connect your test leads to the negative terminal to minimize the possibility of shorting to the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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