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If you want an easy makeover for those exquisite wood panels in the back of your van, here's a quick and easy do-over: *Purchase a quart of pickup bedliner paint, in your choice of color (mostly you will find black). Try not to notice how much it costs. Some Nitrile gloves will spare your hands. I chose a water-based Polyurathane material which was dry to the touch in an hour or so, and had minimal fumes. *Remove the panels. The fasteners come out very easily by prying from both the tiny slots at the same time with two small screwdriver blades. Don't lose or damage them. * Use a sanding block with some rough sandpaper (80 grit is good) to roughen up the smooth front surfaces. This will make dust. I suggest you have plenty of old newspaper on hand. It doesn't take much sanding. Just enough to get the shine down. *Stir your paint thoroughly. It will have goop that has settled. Use the worst brush you can find. The more frayed and splayed the better. No primer or undercoat will be needed. Place your panels on newspaper with each one supported above the paper on something like wood scraps. This will keep the panels from sticking to the paper as they dry. *I found the easiest method was to scoop a bunch of paint material out of the can with my wide stir stick and drop and dribble it onto the wood panels. On the two large ones only do about a quarter of the area at a time. Now take your splayed brush and STIPPLE the paint around until it evenly covers the area. DON'T BRUSH. Use a dab-and-jab method (Think of Bob Ross doing his Chik - Chik - Chik technique to add trees to his bad landscape paintings). You are essentially distributing the goopy material around to get an even coverage of sorts. The more you stipple, the more even the texture. I wanted a rough finish so I didn't stipple too much. If you were smart enough to by the gloves you can handle the panels to get some paint on the edges without worrying about the mess. You can go back right away and touch up any spots that show bare wood. * I let my panels dry overnight before re-installing them. When re-installing the panel clips, pull the center post almost completely out of the clip before attempting to push them back into the holes. Hold the panel up and pop in a clip. If you do it right it will easily go right back into the hole. You follow up by firmly pushing the pin all the way down until flush. *I spent less than two hours on this project. The reason I chose the bedliner paint was because I wanted some texture, a durable surface that can easily be touched up, and ease of application without having to use primer. I feel like a much classier guy now whenever I look into the rear of my van. My next project is to fit Alupanel Aluminum material over the ugly metal sidewalls - and then perhaps an insulating headliner.

Recently purchased a 2011 TC with hopes of doing some overnight camping down the road. Was a time I'd have done this work myself, but too old and decrepit for that now. Found a friend of a friend who likes to do custom work (couldn't find a body shop that would touch it), tracked down the parts, and let him have at it. Short list of parts: - Fiberine full length one foot topper - Slider windows - Universal retractable side step - Aries step up bumper - MaxxAir roof fan Here's the original concept I photoshopped from stock pics off the web. Nothing to scale, but it did give a good sense of what I wanted to see when it's done. This uses an actual pic from the dealership's online ad. Vehicle already has a nice 1K inverter and dual battery system for going off grid, and is in excellent condition with 70K on it. And here we are a week later with the real deal. Stopped by today to take a peak, and lots of progress: I ordered the Fiberine topper with the extra wood reinforcement inside the glass shell. Lot stronger, and better for attaching headliners and such. I was expecting maybe some blocking here and there, but they gave it the full monty ... So far, no complaints - the guy does really nice work, especially considering that it's a first. He's mostly custom racers and resto-rods, but figured why not - always ready for something new. Asked today if he'd do one of these again, and it was ... not a chance! Took four men and a chain hoist to get that roof on there, and plan is to leave that for the younger guys. Anyway - been planning this project for several months now - good to see it actually happening!

Hi guys, I am a super happy new owner of a transit connect cargo as my bike and ski carrier. One of the things I have not been ecstatic with however is the hardboard panels on the sliding and rear doors. I am thinking of making up a replacement set out of a super impact resistant polypropylene composite called tegris. It was developed for ballistic purposes but is really hard wearing and used in other areas such as high end luggage. I happen to work for a helicopter outfitter who provides interior protection kits made out of the material. I have heard of a few other complaints about the hardboard and would be curious to see if there was enough interest in such a kit to justify producing a few sets for sale. The material is completely waterproof, extremely impact resistant, temperature stable, and generally very wear resistant. A massive upgrade over hardboard. It also has a pretty cool looking finish somewhere between carbon fibre and tweed. I am considering two separate kits. One would replace all existing hardboard panels using OEM fasteners. A second would provide new panels for the window areas and likely affix using either industrial velcro (my preference and what is used in several helicopter kits) or customer drilled fasteners. The picture below shows the areas in red that I would like to make panels for. Costs would likely be around $250-300 for each kit as the material itself is quite expensive. I have attached a few pictures showing the material. Around 5-10 sets on either kit would the point where we could consider production. Let me know what you think and about any questions or suggestions. Cheers! (PS individual modifications such as speaker cutouts or engraved logos could also be possible)

2017 xlt rear liftgate has developed slight water leak after a rain. puddle in middle area around where access hole for lowering spare is located. water is about a cup full. Appears to be leaking from top maybe? gasket all around liftgate is intact, no water seen, no dampness on headliner or on inside of liftgate, etc. just slight puddle on floor? any thoughts?

How can the turn signal clicker be changed to be louder? Where is it located and \ or how can it be made louder?

This XLT has a open package shelf; I've seen photos of XLT with doors on the shelf, but not on this one. In the center of the shelf, there's a knockout that looks like it is for an overhead radio installation option. Behind it is a plastic shield to keep shelf contents away from the radio. What radio option was this? Is there a power connector up there we could use for other electronics? Failing that, what other power options are up there? Is the shelf difficult to remove/replace?

I have added interior panels over the ugly window cutouts. 3mm Alupanel was used and the cavity behind the panel is stuffed with 12 oz. of Polyfil for sound deadening and insulation. The plastic layer in the sheeting also serves as a barrier. The process was somewhat involved and required several steps. Heavy paper patterns were developed first. Next the patterns were transferred to cardboard. Cardboard was cut out and holes were punched, the targets being the three 3/8" threaded holes in the frame. After some further adjustments and a test attach of the template using the actual bolts, the carboard pattern was used to mark out the shape on the Alupanel material. The shape was cut out and the edges filed and sanded smooth. Getting the panels attached to the van walls requires some force. The material must be forced inwards to allow the 1 1/4" bolts to get started in the threaded holes in the walls. This is due to the slight curvature of the van's side walls. Large rubber washers cushion the panels on both the front and back. Before snugging down all bolts 12 oz. of Polyfil were stuffed between the panel and the wall. A long stick was used to push the Polyfil and adjust it into place. A test fit of the panels without the Polyfil revealed that the material does actually deaden sound.

What size/number are the interior lights in the 17 wagon? Does anyone have a recommendation for LED replacements? I just can't stand the yellow incandescent.

[editing my post to clarify my question] How do I remove these circle pin/fastener things? I need to take my floor liner out but I'm not sure how to remove these without damaging them. Thank you!

My inept local dealer who sold me my TC did the recall install of the side door latches. They annoyingly left one of the black plastic trim clips out of my MDF sliding door panel. I'm trying NOT to support this dealer as they have proven to be very inept, and don't really want to go back there, so I thought, "how hard could it be to find some trim clip replacements?" As it turns out - harder than you might think! Tried without success to register at fordparts.com, whose web site seems to be only partly functional. Then just made some online searches. The only clips I could turn up that looked very much like the Ford originals, could be bought from one of the local big-box auto parts dealers for.....$12.....That's twelve dollars EACH! Yes, for ONE fastener. There's an infinite assortment of clips available out there, but no way of telling if there is a reasonably-priced replacement that actually fits the TC's panels. Some of you may have already discovered that those MDF panels can be an annoying source of vibration if not securely fastened. I want fasteners in EVERY hole! Anyone found a replacement clip type and source for substitutes that work?

Am I alone on this one? The two-section plastic housing that covers the rear-view mirror attachment point. It seems to be a lousy, loose fit, that just kind of hangs from whatever supports it and rattles. It feels so flimsy I am reluctant to explore exactly how it's attached, for fear of breaking it. There seems to be no screws. The Connect is not exactly a quiet chassis to begin with. Any small rattle that can be eliminated will only improve the situation. Suggestions? Thanks.

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My wife bought it in June. I find both armrests to be useless. Console is to low and to far back. Door is to far from driver seat. Has anyone seen any type of armrest extender?

I have a 2010 Ford Transit Connect XLT, it only has windows on the doors and rear doors. The back side panels have no windows on them, and I would like to get interior trim panels for the inside if possible. I know that the passenger van has a nicer interior - but mine is just a used commercial van. I took out the metal shelving and would like to place nicer trim panels going floor to roof, and for the inside back doors as well. I have done countless internet searches for these panels, but cannot find them anywhere. Does anyone know where I might get some? The local junkyards aren't exactly filled with these vehicles. Thank you -

My wife bought one in June. I find both armrests to be useless. Console is to low and to far back. Door is to far from driver seat. Has anyone seen any type of armrest extender?

I bought a complete set of seat covers (front & rear) for my 2010 XLT Wagon and installed the front seats only for about 6 months. They are Coverking Wetsuit (neoprene) 2-Tone, Black Sides Gray Insert. The rears were never installed, they are still brand new. The fronts are in excellent condition and I cleaned them thoroughly when I removed them. I paid over $270 for the set (on special at Costco.com) They still sell them (click here for link). I just didn't like them, but I know other people really do, so I'll let them go for $50 + shipping. I just would like to see them get used rather than sit in my garage! Shoot me a PM if interested. Roger

Rear seats for sale in Salem, OR. Seats have been sold