Mikeeshaq
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Everything posted by Mikeeshaq
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I prefer a dead radio as I plan to gut the thing and hide my radio amateur control head behind it Make am offer Ignore I got a radio
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Ford oil done by Ford dealership Every 3,000 miles I plan to run this TC to 500,000 miles!!
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Cancel WTB radio because I got one
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You SHOULD be able to add the OEM cruse control. I believe the electronics is all there. The only thing needed is the module that controls the accelerator cable and also the steering wheel controls Big mystery about the wire harness though. THEN you need a Ford technician that understands the cruise control has to be enabled in the computer People have added the OEM cruise control in the newer Focus
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Cancel this WTB post
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Roof Racks Revisited
Mikeeshaq replied to tworock's topic in Cargo, Hauling, Towing & Upfit Packages
If you take a look, the mountings seem to be placed on some framing. Observe the headliner and see how the headliner sort of bulges underneath the mountings... that is the frame. While some rack vendors will have a third rack to be mounted, which requires holes to be drilled I don't think that is as strong as the OEM mountings -
Roof Racks Revisited
Mikeeshaq replied to tworock's topic in Cargo, Hauling, Towing & Upfit Packages
Yes the mountings seem to be strong. Somewhere there is a spec on how much weight you can put up there For me, I used stainless steel 8mm button head bolts plus, from McMaster I bought 1.5 inch width x 1/8" thick long piece of Teflon to place between the mounting post and the car body. The rack people just gave some foam rubber that would be sure to deteriorate -
At 7500 miles I brought my TC to a Ford dealership where TCs are sold and they did not know about the proper rotation pattern or different pressures. [see my earlier posts] the first rotation was front to back and back to front with no crossover. The TPMS sensor then turned on but no biggie because I am too lazy to reset it Now at 15,000 I take it to Firestone with EXPLICIT directions and I even marked the tires Proper rotation is Front to Back, Back to opposite Front They followed my [Ford's] instructions 100% Guess what! the TPMS sensor light is OFF!!!!!!!!!!!
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Headlights
Mikeeshaq replied to Southpaw's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lights, Mirrors, Window Tint & Wipers
Yep Happens to me I just flash my high beams right back -
2011 Mirrors for a 2010
Mikeeshaq replied to skurtz's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lights, Mirrors, Window Tint & Wipers
Ahhh! It will only give you the base number On the Electronic Parts Catalog [EPC] It will give the complete number I have not been able to get the 2011 EPC yet, but I do have the 2010 As an option to consider, the front of the mirror has a panel that is 'removable' but more important is replaceable. And I have both -
2011 Mirrors for a 2010
Mikeeshaq replied to skurtz's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lights, Mirrors, Window Tint & Wipers
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2011 Mirrors for a 2010
Mikeeshaq replied to skurtz's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lights, Mirrors, Window Tint & Wipers
Go to www.fordparts.com Here you will get parts views except it will not give you the full number- just the base number While you can select the model year etc You could go on a lot and copy the vin number off a 2011 TC and plug that number in the above WEB site Course these days if you go on a lot, the salespeople will come out like hungry vultures -
I have heard that in Europe, specifically UK, that rear disc brakes ARE available IF the traction control package is purchased on a new vehicle. However the Ford Electronic Parts Catalog for use here in the USA has zero info on non-USA market cars Go to the English Ebay site Type in Ford EPC There you go. You will see if what I say is true or not However just because you have part numbers, if these parts are not used in the USA, then a Ford USA dealer cannot order them And to have an English dealer send them to you, the postage will be $$$ Good luck ADDED!! Go to Ebay [uSA site] Type in Ford Europe Electronic Parts Catalog
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I sent you a PM about two of them mikeeshaq
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You will see my earlier post about tire gauge Anyway, I marked my tires to see what rotation pattern that the dealership used and also to see if they even rotated the tires[!] Front tires to back [same side] back tires to front same side. Spare tire left alone I look in the owner's manual and the proper rotation is Front tires to back same side, back tires to front BUT opposite sides. This was Ford dealer that has many TCs on the lot for sale
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Adrian Steel has for Transit Connect, rear door pockets It is their part number SLPTC "Step Ladder Pockets for rear door Transit Connect" These things were made so a six foot ladder could be stored in a TC that has a partition. True, the purpose is different and there is no netting, and there will have to be some adapting. Price is anywhere from $71.00 to $90.00 and if you have an Adrian distributor in your town at least you won't have to pay shipping I ordered these and there is a three week wait ADDED I found this thing on Ebay at great discount! So i bought the thing. True i don't need two but this may made by someone else and I can also offer this for sale here, I suppose, preferably to someone in Houston
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Bring your tire gauge when tires are rotated
Mikeeshaq replied to Mikeeshaq's topic in Wheels & Tires
It is no use to bring my Transit to a Ford dealership that I usually go to [when I had two Focuses] because I saw the tire people use their impact wrench to really tighten the lug nuts on. (sound = WHAM WHAM WHAM) So tight I could hardy take the nuts off when I had a flat and I am big beefy guy! In fact one of the lug studs had a thread stripped [talking about Focus here] [tire people = tire monkeys] But for tires and brakes I trust a local Firestone garage, they say they use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. Now I will tell them [Firestone] the pressures have to be reset next time tire rotation is due BTW Substitute Firestone for any garage that you trust - i.e. no blanket recommendation here -
I took my Transit for a tire rotation to a Ford dealership that sells Transits and has a few of them for sale. Afterward I checked the tire pressures and service didn't know enough that there are different pressures for front and back. That was even something new for the service adviser !
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Them dang rear locking doors!
Mikeeshaq replied to Scratch's topic in Alarms, Keyless Entry, Key Fobs & Remote Start
Electronic Technician by trade I tried my remote in back of my TC from 35 to 40 feet away-works no problem at all RF will go through the plastic dash and glass with no problem at all. If you have all metal rear doors then RF cannot get through that. A metal partition or perhaps the back filled with bins and shelving will pose a real problem too -
Determining the Ford Tibbe Key Code On the Tibbe key used for the USA Transit Connect there are six cut positions and there are four levels of cuts. The key code starts at the bow end. If you observe closely, the Tibbe key has are two smooth ribs on either side of where the cuts occur. There are four levels of cuts 1, 2, 3 and 4. No cut is number 1 and cut four is easy to recognize as that is the most extreme cut and almost is even with the smooth rib. Cut 3 is .5 mm above the smooth rib and cut 2 is 1.0 mm above the smooth rib. I suspect cut 1 (no cut) is 1.5mm above the smooth rib (cut 1 might not be used). Using a magnifying glass imagine the different cuts as ‘steps’. So measure the top of the ‘step’ to the top of the smooth rib. Actually, obtain a caliper and open the jars to the specified distance and compare the distance. Actually cut 4 seems to be .1mm above the smooth rib. Another Way to Identify Key Cut Positions With respect to the middle of the key cut to the end of the key: Key cut #1= 15.8 mm; key cut #2 =13.8 mm; key cut # 3=11.8 mm; key cut #4= 9.8 mm; key cut # 5 = 7.8 mm; key cut # 6 = 5.8 mm Although not too useful , the cut levels are; level 1=0 degrees, level 2 = 11 degrees, level 3 = 24.3 degrees, level 4 = 35.3 degrees. It is not necessary to know the key code if ordering from a Ford dealership as a manager can query the Ford system with your VIN to obtain your key code. However ordering from a third part vendor then this key code is necessary. Ordinarily there is a key code tag that is attached to one of the keys, but this can easily get lost. The Jaguar uses an eight-position Tibbe key with three different cuts and inserting the wrong key into a lock (Jaguar into Ford and reverse, might permanently jam up the lock). Everybody from the Ford dealership to an independent locksmith requires proof of ownership; usually the insurance card will be good enough. Odds and Ends There are unconfirmed reports saying any Ford Tibbe key can be used to lock the doors, sort of tough if you have two TCs and you left the correct set of keys inside the vehicle. Any Ford Tibbe key can unlock and lock the gas cap cover-this is done so ripping off the cover does not yield the key code. An unconfirmed report says the hood [engine bonnet] lock can be locked and unlocked by any Ford Tibbe key. Stay away from E bay sellers that will sell Ford Tibbe key blanks as some of them do nor realize the difference between Jaguar and Ford Tibbe keys. Also those that do cut keys prefer to sell their own keys. Soon to come a listing of any body that cuts Tibbe keys in North America http://www.keysfast.info/ This outfit is in Canada and will make Ford Tibbe keys. They do mail-order but require proof of ownership and a copy of your Driver's License
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2010 USA transit Connect owner’s manual Discrepancy in the programming spare keys from the TC service manual Page 68,68 of the owner’s manual “2. Turn the ignition from the 0 (off) position to the II (on) position. Keep the ignition in the II (on) position for at least one second but no more than 10 seconds.” Same as for 6. Same as for 10. The service manual has three seconds, instead of one second. Actually I used 5 seconds; there might be a problem if someone actually did that at one second
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front brake pads almost gone at 9k ??
Mikeeshaq replied to Dan GSR's topic in Brakes, Chassis & Suspension
If only my pads wore then i would be happy I had a 2004 Focus Wagon ran 180,000, the pads never wore out except the rotors would get gouged quite a bit, then everything got changed. I noticed the pads would disintegrate just a bit and that would cause severe gouging. Happened twice! Of course when asbestos cannot be used anymore then substitutes have to be used. -
Re the oil filter Back around 1970, I installed a 'toilet paper oil filter' on my VW. Kept the oil NEW looking, had to use a specific type though[e.g. two ply or something] I really don't know what became of those. I change the oil every 3,000 miles on my Focus 04 wagon, got 180,000 miles too. I was going to run it to 400,000 to 500,000 miles, except a drunk sideswiped/totaled both of my Focuses. Now I have a TC
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I am glad i live in Texas and not in Minnesota where i used to live, otherwise... I would do to my TC as I did back in 77... In 1977 i bought a Honda Accord. I removed the complete interior, seats, panels, rugs/mats everything. Brought it down to a rust proofer and said I made it easy for you to spray tar all over everywhere and gave him an extra $20. When it was hauled away to some charity 25 years later [it was garaged alot] there were only one place where interior rust ate thru to the outside