donuts

A couple more details to share: 1. With the base cluster, the extra buttons on the steering wheel shown in the photo I posted above do nothing. I need to poke around Forscan when I've got more time to see if there is anything I can change to get the buttons to do something. 2. Earlier in this thread I questioned whether or not it would be possible to add the cruise control switch "pod" to my base steering wheel. After comparing steering wheels, I'm pretty certain that would be a big PITA. However, if you love a challenge, I'm sure it's possible, though you might need to break out the Dremel. 3. The steering wheel I used (from a 2014, not a 2015 as I said above) does not have the audio control buttons so I still don't know if I had those buttons whether or not they could control the base AM/FM radio. Feel free to contact me with any questions on this fairly simple upgrade.

Cruise Control is working! This was done with a 2017 TC XL LWB Van + steering wheel from a 2015 XLT Wagon. Step 1 add steering wheel with cruise control switches. I used one that was definitely from a Transit Connect. I have no idea what other Ford model steering wheels will fit. I used my original airbag. Swapping the steering wheel is simple and no wheel puller was needed - mine practically fell off in my lap. Step 2 purchase OBDLink MX Bluetooth adapter and pair it with Windows laptop. My laptop has bluetooth built in. Step 3 Windows Laptop with Forscan installed. I used Windows 10 with Forscan version 2.3.18 beta with extended license installed. Step 4 Make changes using Forscan. This is a little scary at first, but it's easy: a. Connect to car - there are many tutorials on this. b. Go to configuration "tab" on left, the icon looks like a computer chip. c. Go to each of the modules that have "as built" in their names, start the service procedure, and use the "Save all" button to save your original configs. Do each module one by one and save each one with a different DESCRIPTIVE name just in case you need to go back to your original config. d. Go to the BCM (Body Control Module) that includes Central Configuration in the name and start the service procedure - you need to be connected to the internet for this. It will pop up a warning box about downloading and installing a secondary boot loader to do this and it's not safe. THIS IS WHY YOU SPEND EXTRA $ ON THE OBDLink MX. Go ahead and follow the prompts including turning off the ignition as it tells you. e. Once all of that is done, you will see all of the parameters in the Central Config for your vehicle. SOME MAY BE WRONG - mine said I have diesel engine and then the next line fuel type is listed as Petrol. Scroll down and find Cruise Control, click the edit item button, pull down and choose "With cruise control". f. Click the write button. g. Follow the prompts and cycle the ignition as requested. Voila you now have working cruise control.

Country of origin is coded in the VIN: https://www.carfax.com/blog/vin-decoding EDIT: This link has more comprehensive list of countries of origin: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number

Thanks Don. After I get the OBDLink and Forscan going I'll update here if I get cruise working and any details for those who want to do the same in the future.

Thanks Dino. I got the new steering wheel installed today - easy swap. Now I've got to order that OBDLink MX...

I received my "new" steering wheel from Beta Don the other day - big thanks to Don! Now I just have to order an OBDLink MX and find some time to do wheel swap and figure out the OBDLink, Forscan, etc. Dino - is the cruise control setting the only one you had to change?

Here's photo of my cluster from July 24 showing my fuel numbers, also the hottest day of 2018 here in Tucson. I have over 2000 miles now and my fuel economy is slightly worse even though I don't have the AC on all the time now. But I'm probably carrying more tools around now too.

That's EXACTLY how my '17 looks - the computer is always showing ~270 miles per tank. I'm driving 95% short trips under 5 miles and here and there a trip around 10 miles. My van is always has a pretty good load of tools.

Those areas (plastics etc) in the rear look identical to my 17, including the extra hump over the right side rear wheel well. I noticed florists and caterers seem to prefer the lift gate over the barn doors especially for loading/unloading in the rain. Plus they rarely add roof racks...

Thanks for the info Dino. I've got a deal set up with Don to buy his old steering wheel with the cruise buttons/switches, but without the radio buttons. I need cruise control but can live without the radio buttons. I'll post an update once I've got it all working.

Thanks, exactly the kind of tip I'm looking for re OBDlink MX.

Which OBD II interface module are you using? I'm pretty certain I'm going to pursue this so I'd like to order (preferably from Amazon) a OBD II interface module and get Forscan or IDS all set up. Thanks

Thanks Don. That brings up another question - if I get a steering wheel with audio controls will I be able to control my base AM/FM radio? Volume control from the steering wheel would be nice. Can anyone tell me what the steps are to remove the steering wheel? I can buy just the cruise control switch "pod" and I'd like to look behind the air bag and find out if I can add it or if it would be simpler to just get a steering wheel that already has the switch pod. Thanks

Hmmm, very interesting, just a steering wheel swap and some config changes and you now have cruise control? I have a base cluster just like yours and would love to add cruise. Can you provide more details on the steering wheel you installed? Thanks, Joe

https://www.jimclick.com/new-Tucson-2018-Ford-Transit+Connect+Van-XLT-NM0LS7F72J1359380 I'm starting to think the white bumpers on the XLT was a model year change and maybe it was with the 2017 or 18.

I painted the hardboard panels in my van black shortly after bringing it home from the dealer. They look so much better and it was such a simple thing to do. Regarding windows in the sliding doors, my van came from the factory with a window in the passenger side sliding door only. It was a $35 option, but to upgrade it to privacy glass was another $125. Turns out having a window in the drivers side slider would be basically useless to me as I cannot see it at all from the driver seat. I don't have windows in the rear doors. I manage to stay safe mainly by backing in 99% of the time. The mirrors and the backup sensors (factory sensors, but no camera) have been good enough so far but I want to add a camera system. I

I though the XLT had white bumpers. I have a '17 LWB XL I bought new early May 2018, 1500 miles so far. Here's my list: 1. Doesn't look like every other vehicle out there. 2. Cost - I got a great deal, sticker $26090 ($27.5k w/dealer add-on BS) I paid $19800. 3. Holds a TON of stuff, I'm a handyman so I've got mine loaded with with a wide variety of tools. 4. Easily fits in my smallish 2 car garage along with my wife's car. 5. Drives like a car.

Try running a couple bottles of Chevron Techron concentrate through it before changing injectors. https://www.techronclean.com/ Walmart usually has a decent price. Beware that the boxes of 6 at Costco usually aren't the concentrated version. Plus you probably should go with the big bottle. Maybe you need the one specific for fuel injector cleaning...

The windshield sun visors in my '17 TC van don't sit tight to the underside of the shelf when they are folded up. I would call them floppy or limp. They stay up but they are always moving a little as I drive. Anyone else have this problem? I did some searching but didn't notice any other complaints. The dealer I bought from is ~50 miles away and the nearest dealer is ~20 miles so I haven't had a chance to ask them.

The Scion iM was decent. I had it for 2 years, trouble free. It was a 6sp manual. Fun to drive, quiet, decent fuel economy, very comfortable. It was a bit lacking in the power department. Plus space wasn't great for me, especially as my handyman business has grown. I call the TC my toolbox, and my wife calls it the nerd van. I don't care she says that because it serves it's purpose well, it drives fine, AC is cold, and carries tons of stuff. And it easily fits in my garage which is a huge plus living in the desert.

I've got a 22' Werner multi but it's so heavy I keep it in the van strapped to the right side. I do love the 300# rating since a 225 doesn't instill confidence - I'm 230... Plus being able to climb both sides has is really handy especially when doing something like a complicated ceiling fan install with remote receiver and lots of connections. A friend said he has a 7' fiberglass ladder he's going to give me. I haven't seen this ladder so I'm curious if it's truly a 7' since that would be about perfect for my needs. He's splitting up with his wife so I think the ladder is currently hostage in the garage - she sill has the house. I'm a patient guy, I can wait, especially for a free fiberglass ladder.

Worked my butt off today and now I'm re-hydrating.... with beer of course :-) The TC made a nice dump run today, something I couldn't do with my prior vehicle (Scion iM). Had to tear out a bunch of garage cabinets for old lady. They were particle board. She's 91 and somehow managed to hit the cabinets pulling the car in the garage. She sure did a job on them. Pretty sure she shouldn't be driving any more... At least it was the first job of the day so it was only 90 degrees.

Thanks Fifty

Hmm, I'll have to check the mounting, can't recall if there was a plate on the underside or what. I installed them last month. It's through bolted and included a decent gasket, nice and solid once torqued as specified in the instructions. The problem with the 4 bar idea is that the brackets are all specific to the locations on the roof. They have it set up so the bars end up perfectly in plane, so the middle locations would need different brackets. I probably could have tried moving the front bar back one hole location, but the instructions were specific regarding where to install the bars. The only thing I'm kind of screwed on is if I need to carry a 6' step ladder up there. But, I rarely do that. I carry my Werner multi 22 inside, strapped to the right side. I found nice D-rings on ebay and bolted them to where the seat belt upper bolts would be. Ace hardware had the correct metric bolts.

I got this roof rack set on ebay for $150 shipped from UK to USA (AZ). https://www.ebay.com/itm/Van-Guard-ULTI-Bar-Aluminum-2-Bars-Roof-Rack-Ford-Transit-Connect-2014-on/182427086757?hash=item2a79806fa5:g:uD8AAOSwNnRYgKC8 It's a nice set of 2 bars with all necessary mounting hardware. The only thing I will mention is that it mounts to the forward and rear most mounting locations. So, if you have a LWB van, the bars end up more than 6' apart. Van Guard makes a 3 bar kit, though I haven't seen it on ebay. I asked the seller if I could get just the center bar and mounting brackets, but they said no that's not possible. BTW it comes with 4 ladder stops - nice setup. PLUS, even with the ladder stops on it clears my standard garage door. The bars themselves are 55 inches wide - they look perfect on the TC and wide enough for 4x8 sheets if necessary.