dinocarsfast

I have a 2015 connect and I also couldn't find any line to tap into, I think mostly because the fuel pump is in the tank or something so I ended up getting one of these and drilling a hole in the gas tank. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Pick-Up-Standpipe-600-mm-60-cm-for-EBERSPACHER-WEBASTO-251226895000/230954252956?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Using this I also have the advantage of not being able to run out of fuel from the webasto usage because the pickup is a few inches from the bottom of the tank.

If the draw is 3 milli amps then yeah you probably dont have a parasitic draw. How did you perform this test? Dont overlook a bad battery, whats the voltage 20 minutes after you shut the engine off? A dead or shorted cell sometimes have you thinking the battery is ok but it will never start after sitting a few minutes

I have a dometic CFX28 and my house battery is about 90 ah that charges from the alternator so no solar charging and now in the colder weather I can leave it at the airport during the week and it will only lose 20-30% Im pretty happy with my setup even without LiFePo4

I think you should do some more research because from what I have found this is simply not true. otherwise you plan sounds very similar to my van, good luck with it

Any of the plates for a full size transit or promaster will work because you will have to cut it up and weld it in anyway. On a full size van the seat unbolts from a frame that lifts it off the floor and you bolt the swivel between these two things. On the transit connect the seat frame bolts to the floor so if you want want to put a spinner in you will need to cut it up and put it where you want.

2015

I did it two years ago and probably dont still have the pictures but the biggest mistake that I made was the swivel that I bought was from a generic boat application and did not have a hole through the middle of the bolt so that I could run wires through it because this is the only reasonable way to avoid getting the airbag system wires cut when turning(wires for the seat occupancy sensor and buckle). I had to then make a new center pin on a lathe and weld the two pieces together. After that it was pretty easy the steps were; 1, Take the seat out 2, Temporarily weld the legs together so that the distances didnt change in the next step and so that it would all fit back to the van 3, Cut the legs off where I wanted the spinner to be 4, decide where to put the fulcrum of the spinner so that everything wold work then weld it back together with the swivel in place. It took a good weekend of work and $600 would probably be a pretty good price for someone to do that much custom work. The seat sliding rail has a sensor for when the seat is in the full forward position to deactivate the airbag, I thought about using this to deactivate the airbag if the seat is not facing forward but I never implemented this because I never really had time, but its an option. If you dont have a good way to reset the airbag light dont forget to disconnect the battery before you remove the seat.

I am in Wisconsin, but cutting the receiver off would be a good option too if you didnt mind the extra weight

I just installed a factory hitch yesterday, the plastic bumper comes off easy. Remove the screws that you already did then start pulling the bumper off from the front near the wheels, all the clips will pop off. Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

I did this about 2 years ago and it has been working well. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/-21ydY_MM6A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> not sure if I was able to embed this video correctly but here is a direct link to the video also https://youtu.be/-21ydY_MM6A

I did it on mine also, I didnt need to cut or modify the center console but I do need to open the door to spin the seat. I then have it facing a sink and stove that is also the platform for the bed. I dont have any pictures though.

I think it would be fine but it would probably depend on things like like how you use the system, will you drain the battery fully down or is it only going to be topping it off, do you live in a hot area. But if you burn the alternator out because its to high of a load you can always put a higher capacity alternator in.

Now Im thinking you meant to connect the vehicle charging system to the ACR and then directly to the house battery, this would have worked but I didnt think it would be good enough for me because of the voltage drop in the lines to the house battery and the loss of charge capacity because of the lower voltage. I connected the two batteries through a charger so that it could step up the voltage so that it would fully charge. I also used a Lead Acid battery for my house battery. Back to the original post, I think the MPPT charger that was in the link would be a great option it is a "multi-Input charger" so you can connect the charger directly to the vehicle battery or alternator and it will not discharge the vehicle battery when the engine is not running so no need for a voltage sensing relay since it has an internal voltage sensing relay

I dont have a solar panel, only charging from the alternator, and I thought it would work the way that you describe also but when the engine is off the charger did not allow the house battery voltage to get through to the voltage sensing relay. So then I found that the voltage sensing relay would not close when the engine was on because it did not sense a voltage on the house battery side, maybe some sort of safety feature. IDK if this is the situation with all solar chargers not allowing voltage to the voltage sensing relay side or if having a solar panel connected will change the situation even when their is no sun but I had to get a relay and an on-delay-timer and my setup works

100ah lithium should be more than enough for small loads like lights, a power vent and a laptop. With a solar panel you will probably have enough power to keep it charged. But if you do decide to charge from the alternator dont worry about the alternator capacity to much because if the lithium battery draws to much it will just take what it cant get from the vehicle battery and eventually charge everything to full anyway. Just make sure you use adequate cable, you will need 6 or 4 awg wire to carry the current It might be a better option it get a laptop charger that can be powered from 12vdc that way you wont have to deal with the losses of an inverter, also get a battery powered shaver that you can recharge occasionally because depending on what type of shaver you might need a true sine wave inverter for it to work anyway.