windguy

Megazone - welcome to TC Forum. I fully feel your frustration. I went through it as well but I never had the expectation that my dealer was going to know anything about the delivery process. Most sales reps are used to selling what they have on the lot. The TC coming from Spain with a very long wait time and poor visibility is a different process for them. I don't think you'll find another dealer that has better intel on this. I'm not aware of how Ford does their allocation per dealer and if that has any affect on getting delivery. I ordered mine on July 10th 2014 after the order window closed for 2014 so I was on the waiting list for 2015. The vans went into production beginning of September and I got delivery January 10th, so that's about 6 months after ordering and 4 months after production started. Depending on where you live in the US can add more time. I'm on the west coast so that probably added another two weeks since the TC lands in Maryland for processing. Once the van has gone into production, a VIN is created. You can't change your order at this point. I got my VIN in October and the van was produced end of October. So it takes about 2 1/2 months from when it's produced till you get delivery. I would think that at this point you should at least have a VIN and a production date. Perhaps the dealer can check on that part. I wouldn't cancel the order at this point unless you found another one you prefer. It's my understanding that you don't have to accept delivery and you can get your deposit back at any point so there's no risk on your side. BTW - it was worth the wait for me. My only fear is that if this van gets stolen or totaled, I'm not sure I could wait another 6 months for a replacement. That would be a bummer. Good luck!

@103west43rd - thanks for checking into that. I have the XLT trim level but that doesn't get you and better looking panels. you'd think it would since you're paying extra for a more stylish look. grey panels may look nice. I'd like to see what they look like. @boomerweps - for Gen 2, there are no door pocket solutions available for the rear barn doors that I'm aware of. The van models have masonite panels on the sliders and rear barn doors. Not sure what the liftgate has. Does your wagon have rear barn doors and if they do, what type of panels are on them? Perhaps you can take a pic to show us what they look like. thanks

drilled another set of holes in the rear license plate, about 1-1/4" lower and remounted the plate higher so that it now sits inside the recessed area around the plate. left about a 3/16" gap between the top of the plate and the black plastic above it. also added a strip of Black High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape to the top edge of the plate so the metal doesn't touch the paint. I think it looks better and the extra set of holes in the plate don't seem to be an issue. see the BEFORE and AFTER pics below. BEFORE AFTER

did some exploration of the rear door panels. I removed all four panels. took a pic of the fastener. removing them is exactly as Mustang said. very easy to remove and put back as far as plastic fasteners go. three of the four panels had a protective plastic cover on it held by adhesive. interesting that one didn't. see attached pics. the only viable opening that you can make a pocket out of is the driver's side upper one. not sure if it's better to create some type of pocket or attach something externally, which was my wife's suggestion. in terms of finishing these 1/8" masonite panels, which I think is a requirement, I'm more in favor of spray painting them either black or silver. wonder why Ford didn't make these panels out of black plastic to match the black side panels. using masonite is pretty cheesy. .

the factory trailer hitch for a Gen 2 is a Class I receiver. see the attached pic of the factory label that's on the side of the hitch. I scraped the back of calf on this thing again yesterday. I've got to pad this thing somehow.

thanks Mustang. I tried prying that a little but it didn't budge and I didn't want to mess it up so figured it was better to ask first. is it better to use a screwdriver on both sides rather than just one? I was hoping this inner part was just a cap and there was a screw behind it but that was wishful thinking on my part. Modern cars are all about using fast to assemble plastic fasteners now.

I'm looking to fix up the original door panels (see pic below) I remember forum poster Johnyguy mentioning in a post a few months back that he varnished or top coated the board with urethane to protect them. This masonite type material isn't very water resistant and if the door is open when it's raining you can see water streak marks on it later. Not a very good solution in my opinion. Looks very unfinished as well. I'd like to perhaps carpet the panels and add a storage pocket on the rear door panels if possible. Anyone know how to remove the black fasteners that hold these panels on (see pic below)? Thanks

funny. any idea why this area gets hot? there must be some type of heat exchanger in this area cause the temp is way beyond what comes out of the vents. hope some others can chime in on this

@Mustang - thanks for the feedback on that. So the good news for me is that it's not just my van. The bad news for me and 2014/2015 or all Gen 2 TC's is that they may all have that issue. Do you think it's a concern that should be checked out by Ford? Something that hot in the cabin area seems like a significant issue to me. thanks

I've used the heater a few times on my 2015 TC and noticed that the console below the gear shift got extremely hot. I couldn't even keep my hand on it so I'm guessing it must be well over 120 deg. This is the plastic console material close to the floor area. both sides and the front area that's in front of the center drink holder console. I have no idea why this area is getting hot to the touch. I had the heater temp on the max hot setting and the fan speed on 2 and the vent direction for floor and middle vents. The heater is kickass and warms things up nicely but I'm concerned about how hot this area is getting. Doesn't seem right. Any one else have this issue or if you haven't noticed, please run your heater then check it out and let me know. thanks.

sorry to hear that. which door do you have in the back - barn doors or liftgate? maybe you can leave the back door(s) open, have a wood floor that slides out, maybe with some fold-out legs if needed and add some type of canopy or tent covering over the door to give you a little extra legroom and space. not as stealthy or secure but it could be an option to consider.

I assume you have the XL package with the standard vinyl seats. Cloth seats are a $100 upgrade if ordering but I think it's still a 4-way seat. Before ordering, I tried the vinyl 4-way seats in the XL and the 6-way cloth seat in the XLT and I much preferred the cloth seats in the XLT. My wife thought they were both okay but she's a lot smaller and less picky than me. So far I'm pretty happy with the cloth seats. They are slightly molded in the seat and back like a sport seat but has a bench seat feel in that you're sitting pretty upright compared to most sedans. Something to consider if changing seats is that there is an air bag in the side of the seat back and the passenger seat has a sensor that disables the airbags when no one is sitting there. Good luck!

I just measured mine an hour ago and it's 2". wait, did I just say that right? good to know it's a Class II and had no idea about the sway control. will take another look at that. do you have factory hitch and have your shins bonked into it yet?

yeah, that light feature annoyed me at first but I've gotten semi used to it by now, It seems the cargo light is the only one that stays on for a long time when doors are left open. I also got the LED cargo light option and that thing is super bright compared to a regular dome light. For my uses, I'd like to have a switch for that light so that I can turn it on when needed, so the switch would be OFF/ON/DOOR, like most normal lights in a car. I may add another light or tap into that one and add the switch at some point. might also move it more towards the rear/center rather than off to the side. I have a rack that hangs from the ceiling and it partially blocks the light now.

I sit on the back "tailgate" to change into my wetsuit and that hitch is in the way. hard to totally avoid and not to bang your shins into that chunk of metal. I'd like to hear from someone that has removed the hitch to see how easy it is to that. With the spare tire right behind it there isn't much room to have the hitch in this area.