lowspeedpursuit

I'm skeptical of the "seized" manual trans conceptually, and would also get the clutch sorted and go from there. I feel like realistically, your options are to pay up for a proper shop or dive in and learn how to do it yourself. Need some jackstands and a good socket set, and it might take you the weekend, but it's doable. Not sure what year you have, but the MTX-75 doesn't even look that heavy (120lbs?). When you say "seized", what are we actually talking? Stuck in gear, won't shift? Will it shift out if you rock the van? What happens if you try bleeding the clutch? Are you somewhere you can safely test whether the van jumps forward if you crank it? You shouldn't be on the verge of scrapping a running vehicle without actually being sure you've blown the trans, which is really hard to do in one day with an iffy clutch.

That's pin 8 at the "Door Lock Units", yeah. The GEM side uses 4 different pins (sliders are shared). Here are the relevant diagrams:

Wiring-manual-only answer: Ground is always black. Front left/US driver's Ajar wire is Black/Yellow. Right/pass is Black/Blue. Left rear slider is Black/Orange. Right rear slider is Black/Green. The Ajar switches for the sliders are inside, behind the doors, at the height of the wheel wells. For the swinging doors (front and back) the Ajar wire is always pin 8. I'm pointing this out because for the back door, unless the people writing the manual had a stroke, apparently every wire is black, so you'll have to go by position.

So I was curious about this: I guess people outside the beta are getting the Coolwalk UI update randomly, independent of package version. I got it right away even though I was on 8.5.x, But if I used "clear data" during troubleshooting, it would revert to the old UI until I reinstalled. I was worried that upgrading outside of the play store might also revert out of Coolwalk. Do you know if that's the case? Or is it a moot point because any version marked "beta", which I guess is 8.8.x at this point, will always have Coolwalk?

Following up on a couple different projects: On the radio, had some Android Auto connection issues. Mostly solved by downgrading the CAR710W to the Jan. '22 firmware. Seems completely sorted after Google's staggered release system finally upgraded my AA to 8.6.625054. Both Jensen and especially Crutchfield were beyond accomodating; I can't recommend Crutchfield enough. I also reversed the tilt on the radio from all the way "down" to all the way "up" (bottom sticking out), which reduced glare through the passenger rear window driving away from the sun. It also helps a little that the glass in my junkyard door is a bit darker than stock. I'm not sure if one level of tint is meant to come in "cargo vans" and the other in "wagons", or what, but you can clearly see the difference: My 1020098 lock actuator motors came in, so I replaced the motor in my original latch mechanism, and installed it in the junkyard door. I bought a four-pack and have earmarked three, so if anyone in the US needs one in an emergency and can't wait for shipping from China, feel free to ask. Everything works great. Behind the door card is a water barrier with Eurospec part number 2T14-V237A04-DA. I can't find the US part number (part's not shown in my manual, or the distributors I've checked) but it's probably discontinued anyway. I slit it down the sides and across the bottom, then duct-taped it back into place. Barriers in the back doors are long gone, so whatever. Big thanks again to Jammin1 for proving it could be done. This is the new motor installed. Rest of the disassembly pics are in his thread. Finally, I finished converting the hybrid '12 Focus driver's seat from TransitConverter101's thread. Unlike the passenger seat, where you can just install the Focus base foam, seatback, covers and trim onto the TC base, the driver's side is a minor fabrication project no matter how you slice it. The "optional" reason is that I was detemined to keep the TC armrest, but differences between the Focus and TC base height-adjustment levers mean that neither vehicle's outside trim piece will fit without modification. The TC armrest has a square post that latches into a receptable on the inside edge of the seatback, but they're made of aluminum, which I'm not set up to weld. But, the receptacle is riveted to a steel plate. So, I just cut the plate away from the TC seat, duplicated the angle, front-to-back position, and distance from the recliner mechanism centerline on the Focus seat, and welded it into place. I actually rotated the angle a few degrees counterclockwise/rearward, because I felt like the TC armrest was a hair low, and always set it to its highest setting. Now I feel like the entire range is more usable, but it does mean that when it's fully stowed, it can stick out a bit behind the Focus seatback. I don't seem to have a picture of welding it into place, but just assume my welds look kind of mediocre. When I had the seatback apart, I also saw the support spring mesh was broken, so I tried to adapt the TC mesh (left pic), figuring I'd be adding lumbar support at the same time. This was a bad idea, and the seat with the TC spring ended up being terribly uncomfortable around my upper back. I guess that means the support spring is the biggest reason why the TC seats are so uncomfortable, and someone else might try swapping just the Focus spring into the TC seatback, avoiding the need for other modifications. Unfortunately, Focus spring CV6Z-5864646-A (right pic) is unofficially discontinued (none in stock, no backorders), so you'll still need junkyard Focus seats to get one. I repaired my broken spring with the welder and some chicken-wire, swapped it into the passenger seat, and moved the undamaged passenger spring into the driver's. I haven't checked if the Focus base springs might clip right onto the TC bases, and also be more comfortable. For the outside trim, the TC recliner lever sits in the same location as the Focus height-adjustment lever. This pushes the TC height-adjustment lever really far foward, and it attaches to the mechanism (pic 1) via an intermediate linkage (pic 2). I ground out the rivet on the linkage, leaving behind the rounded-V-shaped piece that screws to the mechanism. I took the direct-acting lever from the Focus seat and welded it directly to the V (pic 3). To get everything to fit nicely, I had to space the V out from the mechanism a bit and clearance the slot in the Focus trim a corresponding amount, as well as clearancing the metal around the rear screw-hole (pic 4). Rather than doing what it I did, it might be easier to cut/shave the upper round part on the TC trim to accomodate the Focus recliner controls. Both seats installed. Everything works, and they are noticeably more comfortable than stock. You can see I left the TC lumbar support control in place even after switching back to the Focus spring, solely to cover the hole I cut in the side of the seat. At some point I'll dye one of my armrest upholsteries black to match the Focus covers.

So this isn't terribly helpful, but the only way to get a more accurate diagnosis (short of finding someone with this exact problem) is with the Emissions manual I don't have. Whether that means taking it to a shop, or buying that manual or access to its information yourself, or trying to get in contact with the previous owner to get more information about exactly how he bypassed the CEL during the EGR delete. Without the manual, all we know is that the PCM doesn't like the voltage it's seeing from the EGR system. Whether that's the fault of the EGR, the PCM, the wiring between them, or some other part of the system I'm not familiar with is anyone's guess. On a quick google, you've got this guy saying he had a bad EGR valve, but then his new aftermarket EGR valve kept throwing the CEL because even in working condition it produced out-of-spec voltages. So replacing the EGR doesn't rule out that possibility, and the only thing you can really do on your own at this point without throwing more money at it is inspect the wiring. Even if Forscan (or other OBDII live data) can show you EGR voltages, unless they're completely insane they won't mean much without the manual. Is it possible for your tech friend to help you come up with one?

Plus the exuast, with the muffler opposite the gas tank in the middle. You can stick your head underneath the van, see what's where, and get a feel for where the floor is from the bottom. If you pull your rear seats, there are also some drain plugs you can pull out in some of the floor wells, and you'll see the ground straight through below. Basically, if you're asking "can I possibly modify this van to have more interior space?", sure. IIRC Skizo had a higher roof installed. If you need a utility cubby, maybe you can cut holes in the rear cargo floor and weld on a brace and a box that fits between all the stuff underneath. Move the exhaust. Ditch the spare. Do whatever you want. But if you're asking "is there a simple removable false floor covering extra interior space for comfort/cosmetic reasons, like in Gen-2", then the answer is no.

The short answer is no. The long answer is that it works exactly the opposite of what you're looking for. Passenger vans with 2nd-row seats should have an open footwell. As far as I can tell, the floor is the actual floor, plus insulation and carpet. Cargo vans will likely have a cargo floor extension over it, although in mine the space underneath remained accessible as cubbies through a pair of holes in the front.

Perhaps something like this Charging Hose Extension could be left permanently installed. I probably wouldn't. I would be worried about leaks at the quick-connect from vibration over the long-term, and if you need to recharge your AC frequently, it has a leak that should be addressed properly. As far as accessing the port, it's a pain in the ass, but not really "difficult". Jack up, pull the wheel, pull half the fasteners on the forward side of the well liner so you can pry it back/reach behind it. The fasteners are either phillips, small/medium torx, or a mix of the two.

EDIT: No point bumping this thread again; I'll just update this for posterity with where I ended up: Tried to swap the rails, and it doesn't really work. I've attached some pictures of the tabs you need to bend and grind to get the rails off if anybody ever wants to try, but the ball-bearing slides inside are finnicky and fragile, and honestly it's just not worth it. You can always fab adapters between the Focus feet and the TC floor, but ultimately I'm concluding that the 3rd-gen Focus seats don't directly bolt in to the 1st-gen TC any easier than any other random seats. What I've ended up doing is what I probably should have done in the first place, if I didn't get off on the wrong foot insisting on trying to adapt the bases. I've disassembled both Focus and TC seats, kept the TC base in its entirety, and replaced everything up from there with Focus parts, which also almost entirely sidesteps the issue of adapting the electrics. So that's the Focus seat-bottom foam, seat covers, plastic side trim, and seatback up through the headrest. The Focus foam and cover fit right onto the TC base (cover pulls a bit taut over one protrusion off the back), and the Focus seatback bolts right onto the TC base. Only the Focus trim will fit afterwards; you need the trim that matches the seatback. The yellow/side airbag subconnector from the Focus seatback needs to be installed in the appropriate slot on the TC organizer, but it's keyed correctly and isn't throwing any airbag codes. I've only done the passenger for now, because in order to install the driver's Focus seatback, I still have to fab a way around giving up the armrest. In a blind study, my girlfriend agrees the Focus foam+back are more comfortable than the TC seat, so that's a win. The Focus recliner can also go completely flat, whereas the TC seats could not. ----- Reference pictures from removing the Focus rails, which apparently have to be included in the post somewhere or they just insert themselves at maximum size:

I have '10 TC Service+Wiring, and enough questions have come up about 3rd-gen Focus parts that I have '12 Focus Wiring in the mail. I'm going to grind out the rivets today if I don't freeze to death. I'd rather not cut up the TC harness if I can help it. I'd prefer to repin using both manuals, or maybe file some of the keys off the subconnectors. We actually haven't even reached the biggest stumbling block yet, which is that I would prefer to graft the armrest onto the Focus seat, which uses a center-console armrest instead. That could be as simple as "cut a square hole", it could take all day, or it could be impossible. ----- EDIT: Okay, grinding the rivets out is pointless. Not only are half of them in there so absurdly tight that you'll start to deform the rails before you get them out, but the bolt-holes on the rails don't line up the same. In order to transplant the TC feet, you would have to drill new holes in the Focus rails. If you have to remove the rails anyway, you may as well just swap the rails between the bases, and if they're entirely incompatible, I'm comfortable saying these seats are so far from working without fabrication that you might as well use seats out of anything. In any event, it's not clear how the rails come off yet.

Okay, so this project is quickly hitting a lot of roadblocks. Pulled the driver's seat out of my van today, figuring that would be an easier swap because it doesn't use as much occupant detection equipment. TC Driver's has 3 subconnectors: Yellow - A - Side airbag Brown - B - Seatbelt buckle sensor Purple - C - Seat position sensor (driver's side only) So that should be relatively straightforward, right? Reposition the Focus subconnectors to match up with the equivalent wiring on the TC side and send it. Except the subconnector slots in the organizer are keyed to prevent reordering. Only Focus yellow will slot where it wants to be to mate with the TC harness. Focus purple/seatbelt and Focus orange/position sensor don't key into the slots they need to connect to on the TC side. More importantly... the Focus seats don't bolt into the TC. It's not even remotely close, like only a few things would need finessing, and since the passenger base is a mirror-image of the driver's, I assume the same is true over there. And while the "feet" on the TC base rails are bolted on, the feet on the Focus rails are riveted, so they can't be swapped. So, putting 3rd-gen Focus seats in a TC will require either drilling out the rivets or otherwise massively reworking the feet.

Okay, following up with pictures/disassembly steps. Similar "one slider wouldn't power-unlock" problem to OP; installed a junkyard door that also does the same exact thing. Hopefully it's a coincidence, the motors are my problem, and not the computer not spinning it for long enough or something. The lockbox/latch assembly is held into the door with 3x T30 screws by the latch. The door card/trim pops off, you pull out the manual lock toggle on the inside of the door, and the box falls down. Remove the inner and outer door handle cables and undo the trim clips along the wiring. The box looks like this: You need to pry the sides away from the "top" at the top and bottom of my photo to clear the 4 tabs. The 5th tab, on the diagonal, you want to pry up on the "top" to get the tab to start straightening out, then bend it all the way straight and clear the slot. All the guts will be attached to the "top half" of the case as it's laying in this photo, and the other half, which the sides are part of, is a cover you can set aside. Flip it over and you're looking at the gearbox. Take out the 4x T15 screws and pry it open. So the worm gear motor spins the small gear, then the big gear. A tab on the bottom pushes against the silver clockspring to return to center. The tab on the top interfaces with the white lever in the first pic, which eventually actuates the lock. PN on the motor. Top number resolves to a number of listings like OPs. Since all the options I could find ship from China, ETA is 01/19-01/26. I'll follow up with whether the motor fixes my power lock.

PATS was my first thought as well, but: So it does seem like he's solved that problem. Because you don't have spark right then. The "why" is the question. Flaky connection of something important? My first thought with intermittent spark is flaky connection or computer problem. Are you cranking but not starting, or is it refusing to crank? Does disconnecting and reconnecting the battery let you restart immediately, instead of waiting 20 minutes?

Sick; I have to do this soon. Don't suppose you took any pictures of prying the slider lockbox open?

Following up: since TransitConverter helpfully implied Focus seats would fit in the TC, and the stock TC seats are awful, I grabbed some junkyard seats for pennies from IIRC a '12 Focus. I haven't done anything on the van side yet, which includes actually verifying fitment. Relative to his, my Focus seat connector is missing blue and green (my seats are manual, so I assume one or both of these may be for power seats), and has an additional row at the bottom with the left slot populated by black. I also have brown to the right of yellow. EDIT: My connector. Yellow was removed to separate the two halves of the seat for cleaning. I can confirm that Focus yellow is still side airbags. I do not know if the airbags are electrically compatible, nor do I believe it's necessarily safe to even check resistance on them. They'll either work when you connect yellow-yellow, or it will be necessary to transplant the TC side airbags onto the Focus seats, or live without them and either spoof them or ignore any potential codes that result. Hopefully they won't just suddenly go off. Focus purple is seatbelt buckle. I'm not sure how it works electrically. I've had other vehicles where unbuckled is open and buckled is either dead short or a particular resistance value. This connector shows high resistance (~42Mohm) whether buckled or unbuckled. It may work if you connect brown-purple, or it may not. Focus orange is the "seat position sensor", which I assume we can remove/ignore since the TC doesn't use one. Focus brown and black together go to the seat pressure sensor. Since these connectors are completely different TC-Focus, I assume it will be necessary to splice wires, or transplant the TC seat pressure sensor into the Focus seat; obviously the latter if your Focus seat lacks a pressure sensor entirely. Since I don't see any sort of box that could be the "Occupant Classification System Module", I assume that will need to be transplanted into the Focus seat for sure. I'll follow up as I make more progress.

I feel like we need more information. So the power locks aren't working for either door. What happens if you use the physical key in the driver's door, or manually flip the lock toggle near the interior handle? The toggle appears to connect via a cable, and the keyhole should be a direct mechanical connection. If the door won't unlock via any mechanism, I'd say you'll have to get a locksmith to open it, take it apart, and find out why it's jammed. If the door will unlock manually, you can try to plug/unplug/shake/tap/clean the lock mechanism, and investigate any codes in the GEM, which is in charge of the power locks. Worst-case scenario, you may have to replace one or the other, which are so prohibitively expensive that I would probably just keep using the key. For the slider, the left interior door handle is available aftermarket (without the trim caps) as Dorman 90859. If it isn't even trying to power-unlock, clean and inspect the contacts on the forward edge of the door. If the power locks are trying but not succeeding, welcome to the club. I'm going to try and take a lock unit apart in the near future and investigate unjamming it.

That's the Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) pump. I believe Ford calls it the "Hydraulic Control Unit" (HCU). Are you having any trouble with your brakes? ABS codes? Brake-related lights staying lit on the dash? Everything about ABS troubleshooting in the manual operates off trouble codes; there's nothing general about vibration. I also don't see anything about bleeding procedures for the pump; even on new pump install it just says to bleed normally from furthest -> closest wheel. I would isolate it to the pump by pulling the ABS pump motor fuse and seeing if the vibration stops. In 2006 that seems to be PDC fuse 13, with PCD 23 and interior 161 also being part of the ABS system. If you confirm it's the pump, I would disconnect the ABS computer from somewhere around there, clean the connectors, and reseat. I would also flush brake fluid/bleed the system. Beyond that, I wouldn't really know where to go without codes. It's possible you'll end up wanting a new computer, in which case I would go to the junkyard, because it seems like they cost ~$300 new.

P0304 "Cylinder 4 Misfire" led me to do spark plugs, as well as parts-cannon the #4 coil. Discovered oil on the #4 spark plug threads. No obvious oil in the tube, but I did the valve cover gasket and plug tube seals anyway. You don't need to remove the bolt on what I assume is the cam sensor. Inside, the valve cover gasket was flexible and blue, but the tube seals were black and brittle, which leads me to believe someone in the past replaced the main gasket but was too lazy to do the tube seals as well. Big ups to Ford for the 3x extra-long studs, because "extra-deep 8mm sockets" are totally a thing that normal people have. Got the back 2 with a 5/16" box wrench, but there's no room to swing on the front one, so it got-vise grips. For posterity, here's the torque order, spec (~7.5 ft/lbs), and location of a seam in the head that requires RTV applied: At the same time, the AUX in has been on the fritz, and I also got turned around a couple weeks ago and got tired of juggling GPS on my phone, so I yanked the stock stereo in favor of a Jensen CAR710W, the cheapest way I could see to get in-dash wireless Android Auto. I'm not really a fan of those humongous "floating screen" tablets just hanging there off the dashboard. ~$364 with install gear from Crutchfield. Their radio keys don't work very well, and I took 2 wires (green/white and small-gauge black) out of the harness adapter for steering wheel control, which I don't have. I have some nitpicks, but overall everything works well-enough. ----- EDIT: Next on the agenda, the passenger slider power lock has been jamming more and more often. Inconvenient when it won't flip unlocked; dangerous when it won't lock. Nothing's binding inside the manual toggle on the door, it just wiggles and doesn't turn when you hit the button on the fob. Took the door card off to inspect & lube. In typical modern Ford fashion, almost all of the lock hardware, including the power lock, is inegrated into the latch to make one huge mechanism, 9T1Z-6126412-A / 9T16-V264A32-FB. First number is from the manual, second is printed on the part and may be Euro-spec. Point is, it costs fucking $360+, and isn't [officially] serviceable. Lubed the toggle and anything else I could get at, and it did start to spin more freely, but the power lock still won't actuate reliably. Would like to try prying the case open to see if I can finesse something inside, but I can't risk breaking it since the latch is needed to hold the door closed. If they still have it, junkyard wanted $150 for a complete door, and my stock door has multiple other problems. Until then, I unplugged the actuator to make "manual locks", but that makes the door pretty useless without the exterior keyhole I assume factory manual locks come with. EDIT: Grabbed the junkyard door, but the lock does exactly the same thing. Attempting to rebuild via Jammin1's worm-gear motor replacement thread.

Someone among the website administrators, or at the webhost, jacked up the SSL certificate when it was renewed on the 20th. It's certifying the security of some backend-hosting-related URL, but not the website's common public-facing one. Assuming it was a mistake, and your browser allows it, you can just hit "allow security exception" and keep on trucking until they fix it.

So, first off, I would assume that not sorting this out won't just disable the side airbag inside the seat, but the primary passenger airbag in the dashboard as well. That airbag wants to know if an adult is sitting in the seat, and if they have their seatbelt buckled, in order to work safely. In addition to the connector you've taken a picture of, there's also meant to be a grey 3-pin connector for the seat pressure sensor. I'm not clear on if the black 18-pin connector for the "Occupant Classification System Module" actually connects between the seat and the body of the van, or if it solely routes wires around within the seat. You'll need to search out wiring diagrams for the '13 Focus, a walkthrough from someone else who's done the swap, or trace the wires in the donor seat manually, make sure they do the same things, and then rearrange the subconnectors to match the body-side connector in your van. ----- In any event, per the 2010 TC manual, and making no effort to actually look under my own seats, the subconnectors should be coded like this: Yellow - "A", Side Airbag Green - "C", OBDII port* Brown - "D", Seatbelt buckled sensor Black & Blue - "E,F", Seatbelt tension sensor* Purple? - "B", Power (F162) and ground I would double-check what's up with purple, because my manual shows subconnector B living in the empty spot on your 8-position connector organizer, and nothing where your purple subconnector is. The wires for B are supposed to be purple and black/orange. * C, E & F just route wires from the safety restraints computer to somewhere else, so those wires might not go up inside the seat at all. At the very least, I assume you're going to need the seatbelt buckle sensor, the seatbelt tension sensor, and the seat pressure sensor connected for the safety restraints computer to enable the passenger airbag.

I mostly logged in to say I just watched a video of someone accessing the 2019+ engine bay power distribution box, and that's almost the worst thing I've ever seen. Even if you were interested in doing the work, I imagine installing a fusetap in there would compromise the weatherproofness, which is probably the whole point of the goofy setup. Looking at the '22 glove box fuse key, I would double-check 2, 9, and 21. All that shit seems the most likely to be on switched power. If there's really nothing there, I guess you're tapping wires. Try to pick one that won't totally break everything if it fails. I like rear wipers.

Diagrams show an "EGR cooler"; presumably it's a turbodiesel thing. I don't question much since they started putting coolant through throttle bodies. I'm more surprised he found the damn thing without knowing what it's called. 7zap doesn't seem to show a full coolant hose diagram, and the EGR cooler isn't listed under "Cooling System". Even the heater core lives under "Electrical" because they have it grouped with the blower fan.

So I'm finally holding this stupid thing. I only have the left one, the seller is being obtuse about the refund for not sending the right one, and it took an entire month to get here after someone apparently lost it at one or the other international airport for 2.5 weeks. Attempts to buy early Focus rear disc spindles fell through; every listing I checked was misinventoried and didn't exist. Caliper bracket bolt hole separation is ~3+1/4". Caliper bracket bolt to bearing center is ~3+3/8". Both of these numbers differ from the Fusion, although the latter is close. I'm also holding the caliper bracket from a 2012 (3rd-Gen, no rear spindles) Focus, which appears identical or exceptionally close to the 2nd-Gen TC bracket. It shares the Fusion's 4" bolt separation, making it 3/4" too wide to bolt up to the 1st-Gen Euro TC spindle. So, as I suspected previously, just having the spindles still doesn't give you brakes, because the most common domestic calipers won't bolt up, and I'm not running an expensive/import wear item. A caliper bracket with 3+1/4" bolt spacing will have to be found, fabricated, the 4" bracket modified, or the entire mount plate fabricated out of 1/4" steel, which is what I'll probably end up doing this winter. If anyone knows of a 3+1/4" caliper, fire away. I haven't looked super hard, but IIRC there are other vehicles which appear to cross with the 1st-Gen Euro TC setup, but they're also the Euro-only versions.

Sweet, thanks. In the interest of preventative maintenance, I stopped by local Ford Parts on my way home to see if a Gen1 bushing is sold separately. I think OP's confusion is understandable, because parts barely knew what the hell was going on. One mention of TC shifter bushings and they wanted to give me the Gen2 stuff, even when I insisted that I drove a 2010 and those parts weren't right. It looks like maybe they don't index the Gen2 bushing by application; it's only sold separately from its cable because of the recall. In any event, they told me that the Gen1 shifter cables are in the process of being obsoleted, and there are currently 10 remaining on Ford shelves in the entire country. Dealer price is ~$80. So, if you do manage to break one, good luck with that.