lowspeedpursuit

If your heater core isn't getting hot--and nothing else is wrong with your cooling system--the most likely reasons are that it's clogged, or if you have a bypass valve (the orange thing on the bottom-left of the diagrams), it's stuck in bypass. 2020 seems pretty recent for a clog, and you said the "hoses" were cold, so off-the-cuff I'd guess the latter. If there's a valve, are the hoses hot before it, but cold between the valve and the core? Or is one hose hot-ish all the way to the core, but the other isn't?

Good practice in general is to run accessory loads directly from the battery or fuse block, through a relay whose control pin can do whatever you want. Whether the high-beam circuit could power the load directly depends on the draw of the lightbar, the existing draw of the high-beams, and the size of the wire. I wouldn't assume it has the overhead, and I wouldn't install additional lights that way personally even if it did. Even if I tapped the high-beams for control, I'd also switch it, if only for legality reasons.

Huh, deja vu. The wheel support bracket isn't considered a separate part on Gen1, but is on Gen2. You still haven't said what model year you have, but that's a pretty Gen1-looking rear beam you've got there, so you'll want to hit up the junkyard, buy the entire assembly for big bucks, or roll the dice on trying the Gen2 bracket on your cable. If you do the latter, please pop back in and let us know if it fits, for future reference.

Without having it in front of me, I would say your assessment that the stepper motor/whatever electrical controls failed is likely correct. P0490 is consistent with that failure. This isn't TC-specific, but generally with EGR the computer wants two things: to reliably actuate the valve, and to observe the resulting changes in airflow. The first one is easy: you just leave the valve/solenoid/whatever plugged in electrically, even though you've blocked off the intake/exhaust ports. The second one is generally more difficult, but clearly if your CEL was off before then either the TC doesn't check that, it's easy to bypass, or the PO figured something out. I can't give you the EGR diagnostic procedure because it's in some stupid bespoke "Emissions Diagnosis" manual, but for the six-pin stepper motor, two wires of the same color (US 2010 is Green) are hot through the PCM power relay and Fuse 26, and the other four wires run to the PCM. Inside the motor are four coils, so each of the pins to the powered wires should be continuous with two of the PCM pins. I'm not sure how things work down there, but I can get the valve+motor assembly for $41 shipped, so it's also not absurdly expensive to just fire the parts cannon at this one.

2010 base cargo. Strut dia. measured just under the perch is ~53.4mm / 2.1". It's possible there's a minute neckdown on the clamped bit at the bottom; I don't really have space to take it apart ATM. Weld below the perch to bottom of the strut is ~224mm / 8+13/16".

Fuck me, that's what he's talking about? Now I feel like the idiot, but whatever. I haven't tried this, but has anyone clipped the 2nd-gen wheel "support bracket"--which is actually sold separately--to the 1st-gen winch cable? It looks exceptionally similar, just vertically shorter. As long as the tire snugs right up to the bottom of the body, I don't see why it wouldn't work, you'd just give the crank half-a-turn less as you wind it up.

What do you know, NY taxis really do come up sometimes on car-part. The guys who have this one even ship glass, although the shipping was more than the window. $192 total, pending. Compared to $155 for fixed glass, I'm okay with that. I'll follow up with the install when it arrives. I only bought the left side. If someone else near the East coast with a 1st-gen wants the right, now's your chance.

There could be America/Euro differences in play here, but to be honest, I'm not 100% sure what you're talking about either. This is the winch carrier, right? So it's bolted to a weld-in crossmember. Presumably that's not missing. The entire rusty bit here, and also the entire cranking mechanism located inside the back doors, and also the cable that connects them, are all considered one part, all together. Did the PO disassemble the system and lose one of the components? Nobody's likely to sell that separately, although if you can figure out how to non-destructively disassemble it, maybe you can do it yourself if you have a u-pull-it junkyard. If you're shopping full-service junkyards, you want the entire system, same as it's sold new.

Finding help troubleshooting what the ABS light means on a non-ABS model may be rough. My 2010 Service Manual indicates ABS is standard, so AFAIK all American Transit Connects will have it, which limits the pool of people familiar with your setup to ROW. Step one, I would pull codes. With any luck the actual fault tied to the light will have more information. In any event, across vehicles, the BRAKE light on with the handbrake off is often used to indicate simple problems with the normal hydraulic brakes: low fluid, cap came off the reservoir, or maybe even pad wear if there's not a separate indicator for that. It could also mean the ground wire came off the handbrake, or the wiring for any of those other warning systems is damaged.

Looks similar, but not the same. Focus rotor hat is shallower. I can't be sure of the differences in the bearings without having them in front of me, but from pictures, the bolt spacing on the 2nd-gen TC looks even wider. Also, according to the parts diagrams, the mounting flange on the 2nd-gen TC appears to be integrated into the rear beam. So, turning the flange into an adapter would mean cutting the beam. My junkyard charges $20 for a knuckle, so buying the 3rd-gen Focus knuckles to cut them up into adapters would be doable. Even if we had more TCs in the yard, if I have to pay for the entire 2nd-gen TC rear end to get the flanges, I would just put that beam under my van and be done with it.

Went to the junkyard today. Had a lot to do and not much free time, but I looked at the rear end of a 3rd-gen Focus, I believe 2013. Wheel bearing bolt spacing matches (or approximates) ours on the vertical only. Top horizontal is 3-1/2". Bottom is 4". It's also pretty cumbersome to get around behind the knuckle to unbolt the bearing. Basically, it's not particularly close. I don't see any advantage in attempting to modify the face of the Focus knuckle into an adapter, versus fabrication from scratch.

Oh don't get me wrong, if I find the answer I'll definitely let you guys know, but I have little idea how to begin compiling potential donors. Basically we want a spindle with caliper provisions--or barring that, a dedicated bracket--which shares the bolt spacing of our flange to at least some degree, because if none of the bolt holes match, you've gained nothing over just making the bracket yourself. The Gen1 Focus is worth investigating if somebody else can actually find one. I have no idea if the Promaster is anywhere close, although based on the hub dimensions it doesn't look blatantly too large. There's also the possibility of literally cutting the face off the Gen3 Focus rear knuckle and turning that into the bracket, if it's strong enough. Beyond that? Having started with other minivans, or vehicles with dead rear beams, that I actually have at my Junkyard: the Grand Caravan backing plate bracket is clearly too large. The Sienna isn't even close to square, although the narrower holes might match our height dimension. Ditto for the Chevy Cruze, but for the length. EDIT: Yeah, everything else that's popping into my head so far has what we want either integrated into the rear knuckle, or the entire axle assembly.

Negative, I find extracting information from video tutorials difficult and tedious. I know Focus Gen3+ don't use rear spindles, and I quickly pulled up an '08 Focus and saw that it didn't offer rear discs, so I stopped looking at the Focus as a source for the mounting provisions. Now I see it looks like the even older Gen1 had both rear spindles and optional discs, and Focused Hands is installing those older parts on a newer Focus? Setting the imported spindles aside for the moment, and recognizing that fabricating an adapter isn't an option for everyone, we can try to find a domestic donor spindle, but it has to be close enough to fit our mounting flange and not be just as rare as the UK spindles. Our spindle bolts make a perfect rectangle, right? Whereas the focus bolts are a trapezoid. Do any of the distances match up, so we would have 2 or 3 out of the 4 holes in the right place? In any event, the Focus Gen1 rear disc spindles are discontinued, and the oldest Focus in my junkyard is an '05, so they don't really meet the "not rare" criteria either. Off the top of my head, the Promaster still has rear spindles and discs, but my yard doesn't have any of those either. I've seen someone mention the Nissan Quest, but it didn't have discs. What other vehicles are worth investigating? There's a Dodge Caravan out there; the calipers on that bolt to the backing plates. EDIT: Okay, so it's not exactly a rectangle. Top spacing is 3", Bottom is ~2+7/8", and sides are ~2+3/8"

Ah, that makes perfect sense. Forgive me, I skipped that part because some utter shitgibbon took the day off making the parts diagrams for our vans, and used a line drawing of a spindle which clearly still has the caliper mounting provisions, even though that's not what's actually in there. So at that point, what about fabricating the UK spindle base plate in its entirety, and bolting it on behind ours? I think that adapter is the linchpin of a lot of disc brake conversions where junkyard parts are unavailable.

Sick, thank you for the resource. So the critical part isn't what I would normally call the "backing plate" at all, since that's just a dust shield in this application, but rather the "caliper bracket"--which some of these foreign websites are unhelpfully calling "backing plate"--and which is equally inexplicably never offered for sale along with the caliper. Forgive me if I'm retreading steps you've already taken, but did you say you already called Ford, to try and turn 4387369 into a real (engineering) part number? Or called a parts company from the cross-reference list we know operates here, like Bosch, and ask if they can provide the bracket that goes with the caliper? On the domestic side, 2nd-gen and Focus brackets appear to be horizontally larger at the spindle mount. Have you measured against the Edge/Escape/Fusion bracket? It looks an awful lot closer. In any event, Focus rotors have a shallower hat, so if you put a Focus rotor on the TC hub, the disc would sit 1/2" further out from the spindle than stock. I can see using that space to try and adapt their bracket. Even if domestic calipers could be rigged up, though, I think you might always be stuck importing the parking brake cables. I'll measure the spacing of the spindle mounting holes tomorrow and go compare whatever Ford brackets I can lay hands on next time I'm at the junkyard.

This is a relatively old thread, but I actually also sat there and watched my radar detector the other day to see if it turned off after 30 minutes. It doesn't. I always assumed the "timer" feature people talked about was added in later generations. Perhaps there's a variable setting in the computer? In any event, aside from running your own replacement outlet off switched power, there's a very simple way to modify any const. outlet to switched. Interrupt the +12v wire (either by cutting the factory harness, or if that's undesireable, fabricating an extension) and run it through the I/O pins on a standard relay. +control on the relay then taps any source of switched +12v, for example, the "red" radio wire. Standard relays are 30A, and power outlets tend to be fused at 10-20A, so there are no safety concerns there.

I'm not sitting here staring at my rear hubs, and I can't find a picture (or a diagram. Do they not do exploded-view diagrams in the UK?) of the rear disc brake option to save my life. But, the hard part is basically just the backing plates, right? Like, once the caliper has somewhere to bolt to, you just need a rotor with the correct pattern and sufficient depth, and a caliper of comparable thickness, plus a way to actuate the parking brake. There's gotta be something out there that doesn't need to be be imported at tremendous cost, right? Is the issue that none of the potential alternatives will package inside a 15" wheel? Are the backing plates the part that's proving difficult to source in the first place?

Thanks! And no worries. Whether I ultimately keep the van depends on whether it can be made to fill some kind of niche. It's a perfectly serviceable spare car, but I have a lot of nitpicks, and it doesn't really do anything "better". My normal daily is an old Ranger, so I already have a better way to haul, which is also 4x4, and more fun to drive by virtue of being a manual. It's also, believe it or not, quieter on the road, and the TC's gas mileage is eh. I had thought that maybe the TC could be used to haul more than 2 kayaks or paddleboards at once, but it's not nearly long enough to put stuff like that inside, and you can't really leave things hanging out the back with barn doors. I guess the most interesting use for the TC is as a compact camper, but that's a huge project I've got no experience with (and as I've mentioned, the things I build are not pretty). I also need to be super comfortable to sleep, so I don't really know if I'm a camping kind of guy.

I'm sure somebody makes that. Roof on this thing is flat enough (PO already blew 8 holes through it to mount a ladder rack); the hardest part would be trimming into the headliner. I wanted to have a lie-down in the back a few weekends ago but would literally have died from the heat, so an exhaust fan in the roof has crossed my mind. New glass survived ~120mi at highway speeds, plus a construction zone. Cheap rear-view vibrates quite a bit at idle, but smooths out under way. Still smells a bit like superglue, so hopefully that fades sooner than later. This is far off-topic, but I don't see a unified "electronics" subforum? Next major project is to figure out why none of the automatic (door open) lights have ever worked. I'm not finding any resources for wiring diagrams in the community, and literally everywhere that sells information has apparently jacked prices up sky-high this year. $100 for the manual seems a poor investment for a vehicle that I don't plan to keep. Cheapest option is to buy direct from Ford, 3 days for $22? But 3 days is nothing, and I'm worried their website will pull some nonsense and try not to let me save the diagrams. EDIT: "Workshop" and "Wiring Diagram" manuals are apparently on their way from eBay for $20/ea. I'll still have them in my shop even if I get rid of the van, so assuming they don't show up drenched in coffee or something, anyone feel free to let me know if you need whatever info. I'll paraphrase the procedures and redraw the damn wiring diagrams myself if there are copyright concerns; I'm sick of all the gating and expense around service manuals for old cars that are no longer directly supported by dealers.

Part 3. The following minor work had to be done: Remove tape, reattach wiring clips, reinstall door trim. The outer tag light didn't want to work, but the wiring and bulb were fine, so I bent the pins a bit tighter and it came back on. Installed a rear-view mirror. The basic one on Amazon doesn't come with glue, so that was $7.50 at Advance Auto. Back glass is still firmly in place and shows no leaks after the big storm last night. So, aside from minor improvements I might come up with in the future to make the trim look better, I'd say the project is done: Visibility is obviously infinitely better. Gonna take the van on the highway tomorrow and check everything out in action. Final project cost was ~$265, plus a handful of consumables I already had in the shop. If anybody has any questions, additions, or comes up with a line or has anything else to contribute on the sliding door windows with sliders for the 1st-gens, feel free to ping me. If I do something for visibility on the left slider, be it fixed glass, sliding glass, or a camera, I'll update this again. Thanks!

Okay, part 2. Install is done, just nitpicking and cleanup left. This is text-heavy and has minimal pictures because it turns out that when you take pictures of glass, you just get a reflection of yourself, which I'd rather keep to myself. After my last post, I repeated all the work up to that point on the left door. The wiring to remove there is simpler; it's just two small plugs for the tag lights that pull right off, with no latch. Camera people, I assume, have more. I am truly godawful at welding sheet metal, and have very little practice, so I ended up welding just a series of tacks along the top and outside edges of my cutout. The inside edge felt rigid enough not to bother, and the bottom edge was so far from lining up with the inner structure that it wouldn't be trimmed by my u-channel rubber. Prep was removing most of the inner and outer paint with a flap disc so it didn't ignite, but I made minimal effort to get all the paint out from between the layers. The right door went fairly well. The left, while I felt better about prep, I had a lot of trouble with burn-through along the top edge. Again, such is life. The things I build are rarely pretty. On the left side of this picture, you can also see how I cut back the vertical support flush with the inner structure. That grey I-shaped area is unpainted metal from between the vertical support and outer skin. I gave my welds a cursory cleaning, repainted (white spraypaint, which hopefully does not affect the urethane's adhesive properties), and broke for the day. ----- On the second day I installed the rubber and glass. I have no idea how you're supposed to fix u-channel rubber in place. I used a random bottle of fast-setting superglue I had laying around. It worked well enough for my purposes. Then I gave the inside of the glass and outer door skin a quick wipedown. The urethane I used was Sikaflex P2G Black*. I used exactly one entire 10.1oz tube between both doors. The spec sheet indicates a 15 minute open time (how long you have to install the glass after laying the bead) and a 6 hour driveaway time (when I put the doors back on the van). I used the "v-notch" method. The included tip was not pre-cut, but did have a template, so I just snipped along the lines. Basically, you cut the tip off straight across, then cut out a moderately deep triangle pointing towards the urethane tube. When you apply the urethane, you hold the tip completely perpendicular against the work surface, and the urethane will shoot out sideways, in the shape of the triangle. I applied the urethane to the door, because it was easier. I ran a double-bead on the 4.25"-thick inner edge. I forgot about the wiper holes in the glass, and basically crudely filled them in with urethane after the glass was in place. It looks janky, and should probably be trimmed over. If you intend to install wipers, I'm sure there's some kind of a seal or grommet. Because I worked without a helper or one of those glass-tech suction cups, I had the door laying face-up, applied the urethane, then balanced one edge of the glass on the outer edge of the door while I reached my other hand in through the cutout to support the glass from underneath. Lowered it into the recess and open-palm pressed several times around the perimeter. Lessons learned during this part: if a little bit of urethane squeezes out into the gap between the glass and recess like on the outside-top corner, just leave it alone. I think the spec sheet listed a solvent for uncured urethane, but just assume you can't wipe this stuff up, and trying to will only make it worse. After six hours, I reinstalled the doors. I put blue loctite on the bolts and tightened by feel. To balance the doors on the bumper at the right height, I used one of the pieces of styrofoam the glass was shipped in. Before tightening the bolts all the way, I aligned the hinges with the unpainted parts of the jamb that indicate where they originally were. This picture sucks, but it started raining its ass off, unscheduled, less than ten minutes after I bolted the doors on. I threw some tape along the edges, and hopefully six hours was enough for water exposure. We'll know tomorrow if it leaks, and I'll take final pics inside and out. Trim from the inside is imperfect, but passable. No worse than anything else about this van. ----- *EDIT: I've read that Sika P2G is literally only primerless on the glass side, and "may" require primer on the body. I'm not even really sure what the point is, then (I guess it saves professionals a bit of time, which adds up over multiple jobs), but whatever. YMMV. I'll update this thread if at some point my windows suddenly fall out.

Okay, part 1 of several: Pulled the back right door. 4x 13mm bolts, plus the wiring for the lock. This is the latch mechanism, behind the "wooden" door trim. You slide that red blocking tab out along those grey rails, and it comes completely off. The actual button you press in to release the connector is underneath. I didn't throw them on the package scale, but by my standards, these doors are extremely light. I literally just held the outside edge, zipped the bolts out, and let it fall onto the bumper. The window is basically an exact fit for the recessed area on the outside door skin, but has considerably wide blacked-out borders. I traced the cutout to correspond to the transparent region of the glass. 4.25" in from the center, 3" up from the bottom, and 1.5" from both the top and outside. The resulting shape should be 18.5" tall and across at the bottom, and 17" across at the top. The radii of the top corners are 1.25" on the inside and 1" on the outside. The radii of the bottom two corners are very tight (~0.5") I cocked up the outside-bottom corner and ended up with a straight angled cut, rather than a smooth curve. Such is life. I cleaned up the corners and deburred the raw edge. This is the test-fit and cut-to-length on my u-channel rubber. I didn't take a picture of it yet, but I cut the vertical support brace off flush with the inside edge of the window area, not my cutout. I feel like this will look better, and avoid exposing a sharp edge, from inside the van. Thickness of the skin appears to be 18ga, and it's magnetic. Just threw .025 wire back in my welder for the first time in years, so once I see if I can weld on the cutout without warping or burning through, I plan to stitch the outside skin and inside structure of the door together for a bit more strength. Maybe glass tonight, but it's balls hot, and I'm probably going to be pissed off after welding.

Yeah, I still won't have the left slider window or those rear-most side windows; I've been calling them "rear panels". It looks like the bigger rectangular windows all trend ~$150/ea. even on eBay/Amazon, while the back door windows were something like $75 and $90, respectively. I don't really care about the panels, especially for the increased difficulty of installation, because I don't think they really afford the driver a ton of extra visibility, except maybe in weird reversing situations. I do see that some? all? of them can pop open for ventilation, which is cool, but would only further complicate installation. Likewise, knowing about the taxi window option in the sliders makes me even less interested in dropping $150 on fixed glass. I actually shot the Turkish glass factory an e-mail--like who knows how many other community members before me--and got nothing back. Seriously debating asking a Turkish coworker if he could give them a ring next week. I've had a surprising amount of success with stuff everyone swears is unavailable in various parts catalogs just calling and asking nicely.

So glass and parts are here. Total damage on Amazon was ~$257 for back windows, 2x urethane, "high-thrust" caulk gun, u-channel rubber, and a rear-view mirror. I briefly priced out the other 3 windows I don't have, but all of the side windows were considerably more expensive. Assuming installing the back glass goes well, the others can be an "if they come up cheaper at some point" project, or I can do the camera thing for the left-side blind spot. I feel like the actual "blind spot" is fairly small, and I can eliminate it by leaning forward before I merge, so there's no urgency there. I'm gonna try and do the install Saturday afternoon, but if the parts for my truck show up Saturday, that takes priority. EDIT: That's fascinating. LA Taxis as well, apparently. This one is 40 hours away from me, which is a little out of reach: https://imageappoh.car-part.com/image?seller=8048&partsourceid=8048&partGUID=E0AFA98A-7540-4EE2-ABB0-D7C844F1CFDE&vehicleGUID=C886242C-EBAC-4493-BBD6-DA3F9F2939C9&display=2012 Ford Transit Connect Rear Door Glass-Stock%23 0062

Huh, that seems like nearly the cheapest way, and certainly the best value. Even if each window uses an entire tube of sealant, and I need to buy a new caulk gun, that would be $216 for max visibility. I wasn't aware it's that straightforward to install glued-in window glass yourself, or that it could be had that cheaply. I'd also seen people say that companies don't want to ship bare glass. But, in my experience Amazon doesn't think anything of just giving your money back if something happens to the package, so no worries there. Unless the complete doors come up, or anyone has any other ideas, I'll probably go that route then. I'll throw up some pictures as well, but things are hectic and it might be a few weeks before I have time for the project. Thanks!