lowspeedpursuit

Does that recall apply to 1st-gens? I know it says 2013+, which is a weird cutoff, and I see a post that says "expanded to all models", but it references the 6-speed auto trans, and my shifter cable doesn't look anything like kruss77's pictures. Do we use the same bushing inside? EDIT: We do not appear to. I don't see how our bushing even comes out, and the manual lists the adjuster (the whole black bit) as part of a complete cable assembly part# 8S4Z-7E395-AG.

Finally got around to converting both my front power points to switched using N/O relays. I have learned two lessons: 1. Don't work on anything plastic when it's 26* out. The shifter surround, which normally just pulls right off, shattered into 3 pieces. Ostensibly they still make them, so maybe it's a $40 mistake rather than an irreparable one. For now it's epoxied. 2. If anyone ever needs a switched power trigger and is also not a fan (or just out of) scotchloks or fuse taps, a/o 2010 switched power to the rear wipers is the Green/Blue wire at pin 5 in C219, which is the white plug in the driver's kick panel. If you don't have rear wipers, the wire terminates there, and you can depin and use it for whatever. If you are fuse-tapping, it's on 20A fuse# 180, shared with the front wipers. EDIT: Another 2010 popped up at the super-close, super-busy junkyard on the 17th. Grabbed the shifter surround for $5, plus some other trim I needed. When I have time, gonna make another trip with tools to grab the intact upper B-pillar trim, since mine had the back cut off when the cargo partition was installed.

Seconded. My manual only lists lock settings that affect all doors or groups of doors: autolock/unlock, cargo protect/stepped unlocking, and sliding door memory lock/"rear door reverse". It's possible 2012 adds more granular settings, but I've also got a single door that doesn't remote-unlock sometimes, and it's because the actuator linkage inside gets jammed.

So Bedrug got back to me Tuesday afternoon, reversed their original policy on not sharing details on their products, and told me the VRTC11 has max dimensions of 72.5" x 57.5". My cargo area max is roughly 67" x 56.5". Looking closer at the Vanrug pics, I see they have the forward cargo floor extension in place, which I removed with the partition and rubber flooring when I inherited the van, since it was all totally trashed. I can't see any obvious reason the '11 shouldn't be "close enough" to work in the '10, and knowing what I know now, it's probably the best value proposition, and I may buy one in the future. To their credit, Bedrug also apologized for the delay in communications. Unfortunately, I needed a floor in place this coming weekend, so when I didn't hear from them on Monday, I started slapping together some carpet-over-wood Tuesday morning. It's not great, but it is passable. It's what you would get if you told a redneck to approximate Windguy's floor in one sitting and one trip to Home Depot. 5' of the cheapest grey carpet in the store on 23/32" RTD with 6700 adhesive (for "outdoor"/non-backed carpet), just barely stretching out one of the small containers. Wood is neither primed, painted, nor sealed. Bottom side is stapled. Lopped either ~27+7/8" or ~28+7/8" off the back of the plywood and rounded the front corners with a jigsaw. Held down with 6x 3/8"-16x2" bolts, all in the front, partially countersunk. Total project cost is just under $100. Actually paint the wood and buy enough carpet glue and you're damn near the price of the Vanrug, but whatever. Van is quiet. Floor is more comfortable. Corners are dirty. Fuel economy doesn't seem to care about the weight of the plywood.

Ah, I apologize, I assumed it was a carseat/heavy backpack defeat switch. So the TC indicator has both ON and OFF lights, and the Focus indicator just has OFF illuminated or dark? I wouldn't assume the Restraint Module will care if one of the lights is missing. If common is power, the module is just grounding the deactivate+/- lines, right? Run it, and if it throws an airbag code, clear it with Forscan and plug the old indicator back into deactivate- and power and hide it up inside the dash.

What types of switch are the airbag switches? Is the TC switch an SPDT toggle? Is the Focus switch SPST toggle or momentary? Assuming TC is SPDT, you could have the Focus switch control either a standard 5-pin or a latching relay, depending on which type of switch it is. If the TC switch is doing something more complicated, you need someone more familiar with it than me.

Most of my beef with Honda comes from our '02 CR-V. To its credit, the trans drain plug is actually right there. Everything else about it--ownership and maintenance both--is a total nightmare. I read about pulling the cooler lines and letting the pump push fluid out on the TC, but it wasn't immediately obvious to me in the dark where the trans ends attach, and I decided not to screw with it. I'm not much of an auto guy, and the cooler lines when I manual-swapped my Ranger were a bitch and a half to break free. I also read another dude talk about using copper spray on the rubber gasket, so that's an option I hadn't considered. Happy to report no obvious leaks. Didn't measure the fluid out, so I started with 3qts. back in, which got me to the bottom of the dipstick at hot idle. Another 1/2qt. filled it up. I understand now why the first guy I referenced retapped the drain to NPT: if you crank the plug down, you quickly squeeze the o-ring out. So, I got it as finger-tight as possible, then made a mark and didn't see it loosen up at all on the test drive. After mixing it up, I used the new drain to measure 1.5qts out, then finished off the 5qt. jug refilling. Drain takes about 50 seconds to flow 1qt. When I put the plug back in, I hit it with some anaerobic sealer on the threads, just in case. For what its worth, shifting seems a bit smoother.

Aight, this is my general build thread now. If anybody ever sees a mod again before Lost convinces the webhost to shut the forum down, feel free to move it to the build thread forum. First: followup on sliding windows. Big storm; no leaks in the urethane. But, those three plastic rivets in the forward exterior bottom corner are open at the bottom, to drain rainwater out of the track. They introduce wind noise at highway speed. I guess taxis don't spend a lot of time going 70. My girlfriend says she can barely hear it, but it drives me bananas, so I slapped some tape over the rivets and the noise stopped. But, if it rains, a bit of water does back up into the track. I got a few drips down inside, and I don't want to grow mold in the track seal. A more permanent solution might be some sort of stick-on airdam, like aftermarket drip rails. ----- Next project: trans fluid change, simultaneously addressing Ford's baffling decision not to include a drain plug. Original plan was to swap to the Mazda pan with a plug, part# FN11-21-51XB. But, the ~$40 listing I was looking at turned out to be bullshit: cheapest possible for OEM seems to be $52 from QuirkParts on Ebay. I decided to treat that as the backup plan, and vaguely follow this dude's advice to install the Dorman 65241 for ~$6. I didn't swap out the nylon washers, but I did apply RTV. If I get leaks, I can either pick up more .025 wire and weld it to the pan, or I can buy the Mazda pan after all. So first off, the bottom of the engine bay on this thing is a goddamned joy to work on. Nothing is in the way of anything. Honda should take notes. Trans pan is held on by 20 8mm bolts. Oil that came out was not red. Filter has some kind of plug clipped to it (yellow wires) but it pops off super easy. New filter is WIX 58617 / FT1210. It's the nicest one that comes with a rubber gasket. An aside: the spec on this trans is Ford's grey RTV, which by my understanding is like Permatex Ultrablack in the aftermarket. If the rubber gasket leaks, I'll switch back, but at first glance, RTV in this application can blow me. The raised lip on the trans pan means you can't just scrape the old material off; it sticks in the corners at the base of the lip. Brass-bristle brush was the best strategy, and it started to flake some of the paint off the pan. Trans body cleaned up with a scotchbrite pad. The drain plug goes on the back edge of the pan. I centered it in the flat bit in the middle, as low as I could get it while leaving space to apply RTV on the inside and clear the magnet, which sits right there. Hole is 1/2". Torque is 2-fingers on a 3/8" ratchet. The nature of the drain hole means this plug will drain slower and leave more fluid behind than the Mazda pan. Again, between those concessions and the potential for leaks, this job might end up getting done again at some point in the future. Relevant page from the shop manual. Ford specs special solvent to remove the old RTV. 89 in/lbs is ~7.5 ft/lbs. Fill up and leak test tomorrow.

You have a MAF (mass air flow) rathern than a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. Assuming its location hasn't changed between 2010 and 2012, you can see it on the bottom-right of the first diagram, which is US drivers' side underhood:

That looks really good--downright luxurious by my standards! What's between the carpet and the subfloor, glue on top and staples where it wraps around underneath? Or just carpet staples all around the edges? Or something else entirely? Bedrug got back to me after a few days and basically said "whoops, I goofed, you can still buy the 2011", but he still never answered the original question of how hard it differs from the 2010. Honestly, I know I'm only one guy with just $200 on the line, but the feeling of getting mostly blown off by sales/support is still kind of turning me off from buying this company's product. Not to mention, you know, me being a cheap shit. Althought with 4x8s $50 for 1/2" and $70 for 3/4", I don't even know how much money I'd be saving.

I feel like in theory it shouldn't be that hard, but I'm sure in practice it's a gigantic pain in the ass. It looks like the most (only?) straightforward method* is to start by installing the donor PCM along with the trans, then code it to your original VIN. The problem being that Forscan hasn't always been capable of that, and only more recently are people talking about "maybe" you can do it with the latest beta version. Without that capability in Forscan, you would need Ford software and possibly hardware, each of which is catastrophically expensive. I'm also not clear on how PATS/keys factor into it. Does the VIN recoding sort that, or is it a separate process? If you only ever had one key (and for 1st-Gens, Ford literally will not make more Tibbe keys; what up, 10-year support cutoff), does that preclude PCM replacement? *To instead reprogram the auto PCM to manual is definitely Ford equipment territory. The absolute easiest method would be to buy a new PCM for a Euro. TC and have the seller do the VIN assignment for you, but that depends on your final drivetrain arrangement being available in the first place. For 1st-Gens, for example--and if I'm reading Wikipedia right--all Euros. used the 1.8L Diesel, so the 2.0 Duratec/Manual combo doesn't exist at all. In any event, I'd be curious to take a crack at it myself, but as I saw IIRC Fifty150 had posted in one of the swap topics, it's not reasonable for most folks to do the mechanical side of the swap and sit there with your van indefinitely out of service while you "try your best" at the programming side.

The goal: rear carpet in my 1st-Gen (2010). So I had assumed wagons had rear carpet, and it would just be a matter of buying aftermarket replacement, or maybe junkyard -> clean up. But apparently not? I just see "cargo mat" back there in pictures, if anything. Everything I see for sale is either non-carpeted "cargo mat/liner"--which I don't want for fear of trapping moisture below--or various resellers of the Bedrug Vanrug. And the Vanrug would probably be dope! I was about to buy the VRTC11 (2011-13), but in searching I saw multiple topics like this, referencing the existence of a notably different product (VRTC10) for the 2010. So I shot Bedrug an e-mail asking if they could maybe describe the differences, and whether they thought the VRTC11 could be "close enough" to work in a 2010. Surprisingly, I was curtly told that even though the VRTC11 is still listed for sale, actually they only make the 2nd-Gen 2014+ (VRTC14) now. I'm following up, and hoping maybe they still have one shoved in a corner or something, but I figured I'd also get out in front of finding alternatives if that doesn't work out. Anyway, what else have people slapped down back there? Anything else remotely designed to fit, or is the only option subfloor and carpeting manually?

Nah, your man is flooring it, he just doesn't know how to shift the aux box out of low-range.

Thanks dudes! Door is back on; blue loctite on every bolt except the one blocked by the hinge. Put a good-enough effort into hinge alignment, cleaning paint and grime off the window, a bit of misplaced primer off the inside and a bit of overspray off the door handle. Ran a spudger through the track and dripped some mineral oil into the bottom, which allowed the window to latch reliably, although you still have to pull upwards a bit at the end. Took the van to the next town over and everything stayed where it's supposed to. Visibility is great even with the gigantic bezels; can clear my blind spot to merge left without having to lean super far forward. Haven't deliberately leak-tested it. Figure if it leaks a bit, there's nothing I could do but have a professional company reseal it, and when I was setting up this project, local Go-Glass quoted $200 just to remove the fiberglass panel! So, it is what it is, and we'll find out next time it rains. Hopefully it's all good. Finally, popped some small vinyl vacuum caps over the screws that are acting as stops for the glass. I'm not sure if they're meant to be screwed into some sort of soft blocks that have fallen off, or what, but since the general public won't be manhandling this thing anymore, I figure this should be fine for now. For reference, the slider itself is approx. 16" tall, 15" wide before the taper, and the tracks are 1/2" deep. It's certainly starting to seem that way. Took it camping, inflated an air-mattress in the back, and suddenly everyone's gotten strangely attached to it. Next project: pushing 80kmi, I'm due for trans. filter & fluid, and for another $40 I figure I may as well convert to the Mazda drain-plug pan at the same time. I guess I could start a build thread to reference whatever else I do and what parts I use doing it.

After a month of real life and no free time, progress! The first thing that happened is the junkyard misfiled my order as "local pickup". When I didn't hear anything after 2 weeks, I called them up, and they were super apologetic and charged me $50 for 2-day shipping instead of the originally quoted $102 for ground, so that's ultimately a win. I immediately turned around and spent the money I saved on these absurdly overpriced things. These are L-shaped blades for an oscillating saw that you use to cut through old urethane. I originally bought them to remove the blank panel in my van's door non-destructively, in case something went wrong with the window and I had to put it back. I don't know if there have always been different sizes of oscillating saw chuck, or if there's a standard for most applications, and a separate standard for the special tool a glass-shop uses, but these blades don't actually fit my saw. The panel is pressed in so tightly that cutting it out was a huge pain, because the saw would vibrate its lock-bolt loose and the blade would try to rotate, so I had to stop and readjust a bunch of times. You're also not going to be able to cut into the corners, so once I had cut around all the straight edges, I basically just kicked the shit out of the panel until it popped out. Then I unbolted the door from the van, which is 2x T40 torx on each of the 3 hinges. The top bolt on the middle hinge (I've marked the hole) is tight against the hinge and you can't get a ratchet on it, so I used a 3/16" allen key. I also dropped this foam-shaped oval seal on the ground; it covers the electrical contacts on the door. I was ultimately left with this: Next I cleaned all the old urethane off the pinch weld. I started with a normal razor blade, but this ended up being pointless. It was too hard to get into the corners, and it turns out the oscillating sawblade absolutely obliterates old urethane on an open surface. Knowing this, I wouldn't do the job without it, even if I didn't care about saving the fiberglass panel. Once most of the urethane was gone, I cleaned up the remainder (and a bit of rust here and there) with a flap disc, then masked and hit it with white spraypaint. While the paint dried over the next few hours, I started prepping the junkyard window. They sent it to me with what looks like 100% of the urethane still attached to it, complete with taxicab-yellow paint. I tested really jamming the oscillating sawblade against a random piece of glass I had lying around; it didn't crack and barely scratched at all. So, I felt comfortable using the blade to clean up the junkyard window. After a couple passes, I cleaned everything up with rubbing alcohol. I found a 3M windshield replacement instructional document that said to remove old urethane to 1-2mm max, and I definitely got below that. Because I was dealing with old urethane, I decided to use primer this time around, which I didn't do on the back doors. It turns out that glass urethane primer is stupid expensive--like several times more expensive than the sealant. The 3M stuff is available in two sizes: enough for a handful of windows, and enough for all the windows, ever--but more importantly, it goes bad in a week after you open it. I decided the most cost-effective solution was this thing, the Betaprime single-use stick. You screw the tip all the way on, and it breaks the seal, then you apply the primer with the foam applicator. It's pretty much guaranteed to fall apart by the end of the job, and from what I've read, the primer is even nastier on skin than the urethane. I primed both the window and the pinch-weld. The 3M document says to let the primer dry for 5-10 minutes. Finally, I applied urethane from the second tube I bought during the first half of the project, again using the V-notch method. I also ran a second bead diagonally through each of the corners. Six hours to set up, and the door can go back on the van. Still need to clean the outside of the window glass, as well as the window's sliding track, because the window as it arrived won't close quite far enough to latch. May also redo the bumper stops, which are just sheet metal screws right now. I feel like there should be something softer in there to protect the edge of the glass. I'll also post up some measurements of the glass-in-glass window, in case somebody in the future who really, really wants one ever decides to have one custom-cut. I will note that the visible area of the window is limited strictly to the slider, which I didn't realize before. The fixed-glass windows have narrower black bezels on all sides except maybe the front, and so will offer better visibility. Final cost for this part of the project: $90 (window) + $50 (shipping) +$48.70 (sawblades) + $11.67 (primer) + miscellaneous shop supplies. Total cost ~=$201.

Brother, what? Your man made no mention of Forscan until he was asked to post codes, the fault appears to have come along with new wheels rather than new electronics alone, and he did make an effort to take it to a professional before asking the internet for help. That reminds me: I can't speak to where it is on the 2018, but the TPMS receiver on the 2010 is behind the glove box. Manual also says a new module needs to be programmed to your vehicle.

I like the "weaker transmitters" idea. Depending on the year of the Fusion (2017+), even the frequency-matched 315MHz sensors are a different part. If TPMS worked post-electronics-upgrade but pre-Fusion-wheels, that makes interference alone unlikely. Does temporarily running the old wheels stop the alerts? If interference does end up being part of the problem and there's no way around it, I would personally just disable TPMS with Forscan, but I'm not sure if that's un unpopular opininon.

Damn, that guy failed? I read like 1 post from that thread; I though he had it working. Or did he get it finished, but it was still a colossal money-pit? The tinkering and bullshit is my hobby just as much as I enjoy the finished product. I'm in a seasonal industry, so I have a shitload of free time over the winter, but I also can't take the van out of service for more than a weekend at a time, since family's dailying it. I was certainly never going to pay new Ford prices + international shipping for every part you'd need to make this work for sure. It's junkyard and fabrication or bust. In any event, the left spindle, at least, is allegedly in transit. Asked some other random Europeans to ship me the right, but it's hard to strike a balance. They're worried I might fraudulently claim a refund and they'll be out the international shipping, I'm worried they might scam me outright because their junkyard's website looks like a '90s geocities page, etc. I also took a look at a Gen. 1 Fusion. It's pretty easy to discount the spindle just from pictures, but the bolt holes are confirmed 2+1/4" square, maybe an RCH more. For $10, I kept one of the calipers to try and adapt later. Mounting holes are 4" apart, and each is 3.5" from bearing center.

Completely fair. I could also not be giving the shop a fair shake myself: maybe they had him drop the van off, let it sit in the lot for a week, then tried to start it and said "yeah, can't reproduce the problem". I think we need more detail than is in the original post. He says "it used to start with a jump, replaced battery, problem persists". If it's still starting with a jump, that leans towards the battery eating itself again, although it could also be old starter/old wiring demanding absolute max juice. If it still has trouble starting, but a jump is now ineffective, that leans towards other causes. I'm a big fan of the diagnostic flowchart 1: check/clean/tighten major wiring connections, 2: jump/charge/test/replace battery, follow up on charging/drain as needed, 3: bridge solenoid, 4: tap starter lightly with a hammer. But, I work on shit from the dark ages, and my 2010 TC is far and away the newest vehicle I own. In any event, any parts store can give you a (more or less) reliable pass/fail test on both the battery and alternator. They're not right 100% of the time, but it is free.

Depending on how long you're letting it sit for, and what the temperature's like outside, the battery dying could be anywhere from "totally normal" to "parasitic power drain". Whatever mechanics have blown you off on this with "it starts right up" are idiots. As long as it's charging, obviously it's going to start right back up after you drive it over to the shop. Assuming a drain, you can google how to find it with an ammeter through trial and error. Basically, you check see how much current is flowing out of the battery when everything is supposed to be off, and if you get a significant reading, you start pulling fuses until it drops, then you investigate the system covered by that fuse. Before that, obvious places to start are: are any lights getting stuck on? This really should be taken care of by the auto-cutoff in the GEM that kicks in after a certain amount of time, but that system could be acting up. Are any relays getting hot to the touch, indicating that they're continually engaging and disengaging? Or, are there any non-stock accessories attached to the battery, like lights or power outlets for the cargo area? If you're consistently letting the van sit for some time (say, >2 weeks) in between each use, it's might be best to set up a battery tender, and leave it plugged in when you're not using it.

Have you actually laid hands on the Gen. 1 Focus spindle since a month or two ago to confirm that it will fit, or can be modified to fit? I still don't see any on Ebay, or at local junkyards. Again, it looks clear that all four bolt holes won't line up with the TC flange. Do any? Can those that don't be redrilled? Are the Gen. 1 TC locations too close, so that the old holes would need to be welded closed for stability? Are the spindles themselves the same size, so our hub bearings will fit? Or would you need to run 4-lug to 5-lug adapters? Obviously you can build what you like, but I don't know if there's a ton of value in the Gen. 1 Focus for this project. We can't even answer these basic fitment questions because the Gen. 1 Focus rear disc spindles seem damn near as rare as the European TC ones.

jdob made this thread to gauge interest in putting together a kit, and didn't get much feedback. So presumably even if he moves ahead with the project, it would be a one-off build for his own van, and importing the parts would remain difficult for anybody else. I'm still "working" on it--in an extremely non-urgent sort of way. Affordable used rear disc spindles that actually offer US shipping popped up on European Ebay, but the seller has expressed reservations because the donor is non-ABS, and the language barrier is making it difficult for me to explain that I can work around that. Assuming I have the spindles in my hand in a few weeks, I can start testing shit like accurately duplicating the base plate as an adapter bracket without having to do a ton of measurement work, and finding a domestic caliper that will bolt up. On top of the cost (and difficulty, since no-one wants to ship) of laying hands on the ROW parts, I'm also not super comfortable committing to imported wear items, so a domestic caliper and pads are a must for me. The whole advantage of disc brakes over drums is meant to be ease of maintenance. If he won't ship, my fabricating a bracket from scratch is even further on the back burner. As before, I also have no idea what to do about the parking brake cables. US vans are all automatic, so it's not necessarily a showstopper on other progress. One thing at a time.

Ask and you shall receive - 251 ft/lbs (340 Nm):

You should expect any trans. to downshift going uphill, and 3500 RPM isn't catastrophically high. If you're keeping up with traffic on the highway, lots of vehicles would cruise right around there. So, if what you're saying is that in order to maintain speed up a steep hill, your van revs to 3500, I would say that's fine. If, conversely, you're saying that your van cannot go >30mph uphill, then yes, unless it's the side of a mountain, something is terribly wrong. Take it back to the dealer, and explain what's going on. Ask if there are any programming corrections for your trans. I'm seeing a couple different bulletins for the same transmission, same year, albeit explicitly for the Ford Edge.

I am not a diagnostic wizard. But, I do have the wiring diagrams, so I'll give you what I've got. Turns and brake lights are powered through the GEM via F130 and grounded at G410/411, which are on the sides of the body, just inside the rear doors, below the windowline. The hazard flasher uses G203. The GEM itself uses G200/203, which are "instrument panel - center" (behind the HVAC controls) and "instrument panel - right" (passenger footwell). The instrument cluster is powered through F137/179/148, and grounds to G203 as well. Were I in your shoes, I would start by checking/cleaning the "major" wiring: battery posts, and all the other places batt. negative goes (presumably body/subframe/block), then I'd check/clean the grounds I listed above, as well as the lightbulbs whose engagement triggers the problem, and see if any of the wiring to any of those things is chafed or otherwise goofy-looking. You can also have a dealer test the GEM. My focus is generally older vehicles; I have no idea how a GEM works. Let me know if you want actual pictures of anything from the wiring diagrams. Best of luck!