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Story Time Owner of a used 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5L Gas This morning go to start the vehicle, clearly hearing misfires on the idle. Van runs at reduced power, very shakey, and CEL/Engine Light flashing like crazy. Luckily because it is a Work Vehicle, I had invested in spare parts for standby in case of an emergency. Grabbed those spare parts and took them, had to drive off due to the timeframe. Once I got to a safe spot to do some work, I brought out a scan tool that indicated misfires all over the place and "Open to Ground" on all injectors and the Fuel Pump 8mm Socket to remove the bolts that hold on the Ignition Coils 5/8" Spark Plug Socket (3/8" drive) for removing the Spark Plugs Cylinder #2 Spark Plug was missing the pointed center electrode, all the remaining cylinders had significant corrosion and carbon buildup Cylinder #1 Ignition Coil was cracked and showing internals After replacing these parts, I started the van back up. Clean Idle, no knocks. Cleared errors with my scan tool I still got codes for "Open to Ground" on all the Fuel Injectors and the Fuel Pump, but that has been an issue since I have owned this vehicle. If anyone has insights into this particular issue, let me know what you found. Otherwise, problem resolved. Parts sourced from Rock Auto Ignition Coil: SKP SKUF621T Spark Plugs: NGK 90220 Ruthenium HX High Ignitability *probably overkill on the spark plugs but they were the highest rated on RockAuto and the price was reasonable at ~$12.60 CAD each* Hope this can be helpful to others.

I realize this is an old thread but in case anyone else is looking, here's some pointers: Blinking IMMO light usually indicates a loss of the programming for the transponder chips or possibly a miscommunication between the Immobilizer Coil and the keys themselves. First, check to see you have not lost the chips from your keys. Second, try to connect a scan-tool to read codes. Some of the more advanced tools can tell you if the keys are programmed to the vehicle. Third, check fuses related to the computer and immobilizer system (make sure all your electrical connections are both tight and clean). Finally, remove the shroud cover and see if the connector for the Immobilizer Ring has become disconnected. If you don't have that advanced of a scan tool or require another key, you're best to call a vehicle locksmith and have them run a diagnostic and programming for you.

Hi, I can print a bunch. I just need a count. If you have lost some or can't determine the number, I can count mine and come up with a price for you to consider. DM me if you're still interested.

Did you already have the brackets in the body? I don't have them. Did you find a solution?

Did you ever figure out a way to add brackets?. I am hoping to do same

Hi everyone, I just bought a like-new 2012 TC with 30k miles on it. Looks like it's sat in a garage. We don't need the rear seats and I'd like to sell to recoup some $$, as I paid a LOT for it. $600 for the lot, might consider splitting. You won't find used seats in better condition, see photos. I was really surprised to see a small stain (barely noticeable, in photo) as the rest of the car is spotless. But they're almost like new otherwise. I'm located in the Santa Barbara / Ventura area. Thanks, Steve

Don is correct on all counts!

You remove the black part and they bolt down there. Lucky you have those anchor points where they click in when you open them up. I don't and I'm trying figure out if I can add something to make up for it. My seats won't open without any

Hi All! I have a 2013 Connect with the front seat that folds flat. Has anyone managed to retrofit ISOFIX and if so what adapter/bracket did you use? The attached image seems to be the best option I can see so far. Does anyone have experience with this bracket? Thanks!

There are several youtube videos on the subject. The filter is accessed from the passenger side and it's behind the center console. Filters are available on Amazon. If you have a rear climate control, you have another one under the driver seat. Looks like an upside-down bowl. This filter is a little harder to find. Probably ford parts.

If the problem was the caliper, why wasn't it replaced? ABS problems should throw a trouble code your mechanic can scan for.

Good optics.

I had a little shop time so I installed SF Racing adjustable struts, shocks and springs and picked up some 18x8 Volvo S80 wheels for the TC. Also previously tinted the windows and whited out some of the vinyl side trim. I'd like to paint the bumpers white as well. Maybe this summer I will find time to work on that.

I have a 2020 Transit Connect wagon with 51K miles. Front brakes started seizing at speeds over 60 mph and took to mechanic. Diagnosed piston/caliper problems, replaced in both front brakes as well as drums and pads. Seemed fixed with driving around town and short trips on highway. Drove on interstate today for over an hour and same seizing occurred at speeds over 60mph. Probably burned up another pair of pads. Will have to take it back to mechanic next week. Could it be ABS pump system? No warning light has ever come on. Any previous owner experience with this problem would be most appreciated.

Anyone know if I can fit fog lights to my 2016 connect it doesn’t come with fog lights from factory it’s has blanking plates can these be removed ? Also is the harness there for the fog lights ? It has the switch inside any help would be appreciated

I am having the same issue. I think it's my passenger front door and driver's sliding door. I try to lock it with the fob and it locks and then unlocks and the light is on that a door is open. Ugh.

Hi. When the driver door is opened, sometimes will hear a fast clicking under the hood and the Service Endine message comes on when key is turned to run. It will sometimes clear if the key is cycled on/off, but if not will run rough in limp mode. Throws a throttle position voltage correlation warning or ICM torque calculation performance. Both the throttle boby and the gas pedal relaced and still happens. Any ideas?

No, get it fixed ASAP. Losing coolant ends up in a major failure.

not in the us apparently.

I am managing a fleet of 160 vehicles of different brands and models. I have 40 units of Ford transit Connect 2.0 in our fleet that have the same consistent issue with EGR P0400. This code will come and go, and eventually when smog time comes in it will mess up drive cycle that cause vehicle not to pass smog. Drive cycle is somewhat challenging to manage because you need to do different running test to do away with it. Ford Company is not manufacturing these Vans anymore here in the USA.

Mine has so many broken links that I'm unable to determine how many links I need for a repair... Currently tucking cables up into place before final push to latch door. How can I get a whole box of these from you?!

do you have pics of this??

A Picture would be helpful, we do not have that engine over here. if the coolant gets too low bad things can happen.

Folks my ~35k 22' FTC has developed a rather persistent squeak on the driver side sliding door. I've pinpointed where it's coming from and specifically it's from the white roller wheel/bearing (pic attached). It only squeaks with the door closed. I've checked all mounting points and they are solidly on there with no movement. The roller is horizontal when installed, and it seems whenever there's vibration (bumpy roads, slightly imperfect freeway roads, etc...) the long roller arm has a tendency to vibrate/flex, causing the white wheel to rub against the track and that's where the squeak is coming from. I've tried cleaning it thoroughly with a water/soap - no luck, cleaning it with isopropyl - no luck, adding a dab of bearing grease to the wheel contact point - no luck, and even adding a bit of WD40 to both the track and wheel surface - still no luck. I was thinking next I could just place a bit of tape on the track where the wheel rests in closed position. But I figured I'd pop in here and see if anybody has a better solution. I did search the forum and didn't find any resolution to this specific issue.