KC Hilites On A '16 Cargo

[i86hotdogs]

For those that don't know, I take my van racing at SCCA rallycross events. Some of those events run into dusk, and even into the night. I shopped around for some extra lighting to supplement the headlights on those dark runs. I researched the pros and cons of halogen vs LED vs HID, compared prices, looked up reviews, specs, and warranties. I narrowed it down to either Hella LED or KC Hilites Apollo Pro halogens. Both the same cost, similar warranties, similar light output, but one is LED while the other is halogen. 

 

I decided to go with the KC halogens. In the end, I liked the look of the grill guards over the LED with plastic covers. Installation was not too difficult. The kit comes with all the connectors and harnesses you need to simply connect, mount, and flip the switch. But before I did that, I first needed to find a place to mount them. There are a few bull bars for the TC out there, but I could not justify dropping several hundred dollars on what I would consider a mounting bracket. I found an inexpensive bracket on Amazon that mounts where your front plate goes. $20 and some easy drilling led me to this.

 

 

The only thing I dislike about this bracket is the lack of rigidness since it's mounted on the plastic bumper. But it will do for the application. The bracket came with pre-drilled slots and holes to make mounting lights, or whatever else you want to add a breeze. 

 

The most difficult part of wiring the lights was getting the wires from the engine compartment to the cabin. Luckily, there is a route in the back corners of the engine bay that runs into the cabin. There is a hole behind the plastic triangle in front of the side mirrors that feeds you right in to the a-pillar. Only issue is feeding all of that wiring through. KC gave me a lot of length, so there is about two extra feet of wiring tucked underneath the dash. I drilled a hole right above the headlight knob, and installed the switch for the lights. I had an option to wire the lights either directly to 12v power, or through an accessory source. One means the lights will stay on even when the engine is off, the other will shut the lights off when the engine is off. 

 

 

Final product looks great in my opinion! Took some time to adjust the beam position, tightened everything down. Like mentioned with the bracket, there is a lot of jiggle when driving. Currently figuring out a way to keep that front end a little more solid. Metal or plastic bracing between the back of the bumper and the subframe is what comes to mind. 

 

 

Now it's a RallyVan!

[connectvanplans]

Cool mod. What about threaded braces which could tie the back of the lights to the bumper grill slots and adjust the brace compression with the threads. It wouldn't tie the light bar to the subframe, but it'd at least give you a couple more points of contacts to the light housings.

It's neat that you rallycross the TC. I've noticed these vans corner pretty well stock and manage to have some fun up in the twisties whenever the opportunity arises! Do you have a manual conversion? If not, how does the auto-shifting hold up in your races?

[Fifty150]

Very nice. I used the same inexpensive license plate holder to mount a LED light bar.

Edited September 5, 2020 by Fifty150

[i86hotdogs]

On 9/5/2020 at 3:29 AM, connectvanplans said:

Cool mod. What about threaded braces which could tie the back of the lights to the bumper grill slots and adjust the brace compression with the threads. It wouldn't tie the light bar to the subframe, but it'd at least give you a couple more points of contacts to the light housings.

It's neat that you rallycross the TC. I've noticed these vans corner pretty well stock and manage to have some fun up in the twisties whenever the opportunity arises! Do you have a manual conversion? If not, how does the auto-shifting hold up in your races?

Thanks for the tips. I think the issue is that the bumper itself all plastic, and is simply attached to the body with plastic fasteners. So regardless how secure the lights and bar are on, that bumper has too much flexibility for it to remain solid. 

 

I wish it was a manual conversion. It's in my "to-do list if I ever come across a bunch of money". The auto in the "Sport" mode is plenty good for the course. There are a few times where it wants to stay in a high gear after a corner, but that's the compromise I made racing a cargo van. The low center of gravity, and empty rear cargo area make it very easy to rotate the vehicle with a small tap of the brakes.

[Fifty150]

2 hours ago, i86hotdogs said:

I think the issue is that the bumper itself all plastic, and is simply attached to the body with plastic fasteners. So regardless how secure the lights and bar are on, that bumper has too much flexibility for it to remain solid. 

Weight of the lights and the bracket are held by the 2 bolts next to the license plate, and the license plate bolts. Weight is forward. Bumper is not rigid.  You could fabricate a support from the front of the mount to the plastic bumper, creating a triangle.

[i86hotdogs]

1 hour ago, Fifty150 said:

Weight of the lights and the bracket are held by the 2 bolts next to the license plate, and the license plate bolts. Weight is forward. Bumper is not rigid.  You could fabricate a support from the front of the mount to the plastic bumper, creating a triangle.

Agreed. Trying to find a way to secure the back of that portion of the bumper to the subframe directly behind it without posing any dangers in case a frontal collision occurs. 

[i86hotdogs]

Updating you folks: I decided to upgrade to a more robust bracket. Bought a bull bar that mounts to the frame underneath. This bar comes with LED pods, so I'll have double the lighting!

 

[Fifty150]

For someone with a more liberal budget:

 

 

Edited January 13, 2021 by Fifty150

[i86hotdogs]

5 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

For someone with a more liberal budget:

 

 

 

 

Sheesh that's a load of cash!

[Fifty150]

Over $1,000.00 United States of America.  

 

The light bar portion protrudes out the farthest, and is at just the right height for being damaged.  Someone getting in or out of a parking space will knock it off.