Again, remove 3rd row

[Slovas]

Hi, 

I just receive my TC Titanium, 7 seats. 

My plan is to add a bed in it. 

To keep enough place below it, I plan to remove the third row. Easy, lots of article, 8 studs to be removed.

Just a look, it seems as easy as on my previous car. But... 

But there this small câble, seatbelt detection... Before removing everything, what's happen if I unplug it ? Error on front screen. OK... 

So I can remove everything but the cable.. 

If any one have an idea on how to bypass the seat sensors, it will be great ! 

[George_97220]

I have an older cargo van, so I can't address this first-hand.

But I would unplug the connector, then use an ohmmeter to measure the switch (i.e. going AWAY from the wiring harness, TOWARD the seat).
Sit in the seat, or pull out the seatbelt, and see what the reading is.
If it's a dead short (like a simple switch would be), then it would be an easy matter of jumpering the connector going toward the harness.
Either at the connector or at any point closer to the concealed harness that you have ambition to track down.
OR jumper it at the connector, wrap it well, then tuck the whole thing behind the panel it comes from - in case someone ever would want to reconnect it.

[Slovas]

Still on it, thanks for your answer.

STill don't have the right tools to do it clean, but I keep going.

So for now what I know : 

- If unplugged, I have a message saying that there's a problem on this particular seat belt.

- when someone seat on it, without fastenning his seatbelt, there is no weight detection.

 

Which means that 's only a switch trigger when you fasten your seatbelt, with a failsafe detection.

 

As George_97220 said, I just have to find the resistance of the seat side itself, and to fake it to the car side.

 

Then there's the proper way to do it. I'm looking for the right plug to put on the wire end coming from the floor. and here the second problem.

It's easy to take a picture and find of the plug from the wire coming from the floor, but not for the one on the seat.

So for now, I'm looking for the male part of this plug : 

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/turbine-speed-sensor-connector-mpn-wpt1243.html

 

It's a WPT-1243, but it seems that it only plgs to full sensors, like doors or airbag, and I cannot find only the male part, with two wires.

If you have any idea, I'll take it.

[Slovas]

Well...

I finally find my connector, after a new search.

here : 

https://connectorexperts.com/i-26840971-ce2034m.html?ref=category:1261628

 

OK, I need 2, so 170$ + delivery from U.S. to France. Hum..

Just to do some think clean and not strap a plugthe dirty way...

 

so, if anyone have a better retailer, in Europ or in france... I'll take it.

 

 

[Don Ridley]

Finding a source for automotive connectors is difficult. These parts are usually sold only in large quantities. I would make a new connector. Buy a crimping tool and a two pin connector set on amazon, eBay etc. Buy extra parts to practice using the crimp tool. Much cheaper than $170.

 

Another option. Is to find a used connector from a salvage yard. 

 

Molex Connector Lot, 5 Matched Sets, ( 2-Circuits ) w/14-20 AWG .093" Pins, Free Hanging https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G5PQHL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4qv7CbHC31HM2

Deutsch DT Series 2 Pin Connector Kit w/Barrel Style Terminals 16-20 AWG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3RS64E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1rv7Cb06CGPRS

[DonShockley]

You could always just get a generic kit for Weather Pack connectors and replace both ends instead of trying to match one side of the existing OEM connector. I didn't get this particular kit but built something similar piecemeal over time as I was doing other projects by ordering a couple extras each time.

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Pack-Connector-WP-405-Special/dp/B005BH1HT0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=auto+wp+connector+kit&qid=1559082360&s=industrial&sr=1-2-catcorr

For just a quick single job with just 2-pole connectors, you can get a pack of 10 sets with terminals and seals for $10

https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Terminals/dp/B01FP1HXHQ/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/136-8593096-5025566?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FP1HXHQ&pd_rd_r=a1f54031-8197-11e9-b4c5-ef907af3647f&pd_rd_w=lGcae&pd_rd_wg=DIufg&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH&psc=1&refRID=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH

Edited May 28, 2019 by DonShockley

[Slovas]

Bonjour, 

 

Never stop searching until you're satisfy. 

I finally found the right connector at an acceptable price, on Aliexpress :Black 2pins car waterproof auto connectors (1.5) male EV6 E-4011A
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/4VYsJkU

Now, let's wait for it. 

 

On 5/28/2019 at 5:45 PM, Don Ridley said:

 

Another option. Is to find a used connector from a salvage yard. 

I was my first idea but... 

There is very few Connect here in France, mostly professionnal without 2nd row seat, so for the 3rd row, even less. 

I met a guy who buy a 2017 connect, sa me option as me. And there's no seat belt detection. So no connector. 

That's also why I share my searchs here. For documentation, for the next one. 

 

Thanks, and see you

[Slovas]

Well...

It does not go as smooth as I was hoping...

Nothing seriious, but I can take some Idea.

I juste check the resistance of both seats and... let's say I'm a bit surprised.

First, there's a difference of resistane between the left seat and the right seat, respectively 7.76mOhm and 10.5mOhm.

 

Let's say it's because they are wired to the same unit behind, and this difference is the way to recognise the left from the right.

But what's bother me is that there is no difference with or without the buckle engage or not.

 

I made a small test with a friend, if he is on the seat, without seatbelt, the car doesn't say anything. When he fasten it, the car says "OK, 1 buckle click on that seat". If he open it while driving, I have an alert "this seatbelt have been open" which disappear when refasten.

 

So, my understanding is that on those seats, the car doesn't check if there is some one or not, just if the seatbelt have been fasten or not, and if it's release while driving. You have to know how many people are in your car, and where, and you can detect is somone (let's says... your kids?) open their seatbelt.

 

So, I'm a little bit confuse by the high value of resistance, and the fact that this resistance doesn't change with or without seatbelt fasten. As if the car search the change of state, not a continious value associated to a state.

But in the same time, starting with a seatbelt fasten is detected so... I'm confuse. 

 

any idea?

 

Thanks!

[George_97220]

> It does not go as smooth as I was hoping
Yeah, but doesn't that just make it all that much more fun?

> there's a difference of resistance between the left seat and the right seat
Wow. Really? So the dash warning lights (or whatever) do indicate which side is activated? Hmm.

Are you sure you're measuring the right pins?  I mean, if there are only two pins, that has to be right, I guess.

And the resistance is around 10 MEGOhms,  is that right?  That seems awful high.

Are you SURE that there isn't a switch under the  seat? To sense when someone is sitting there?
Otherwise, the "seat belt open" indication would be on all the time.

Again, sorry, I don't have the same year/model as you, but where is the seatbelt retractor? In the side post or wall? That's probably where the seatbelt switch is. Either there, or in the buckle, next to the seat. Just look for a wire coming out of the buckle cover.
The seat pressure sensor will be under the seat, of course. I'm guessing the rear seat sensor is much simpler than what I'm looking at in my 2012 front seat, which also has the airbag detector, etc., etc. 
 

And of course, there's always this alternative:

fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/534-seat-belt-buzzer-turn-off-please/

Maybe this can be done for  your year?
 

[Slovas]

1 hour ago, George_97220 said:

> It does not go as smooth as I was hoping
Yeah, but doesn't that just make it all that much more fun? 

 

Of course, that's why I'm here.

 

1 hour ago, George_97220 said:

> there's a difference of resistance between the left seat and the right seat
Wow. Really? So the dash warning lights (or whatever) do indicate which side is activated? Hmm.
 

Yes, I have the information (seat belt open, fasten or error for each seat separatly. And the indication if there is someone sitting on it for the 2 front. 

1 hour ago, George_97220 said:

Are you sure you're measuring the right pins?  I mean, if there are only two pins, that has to be right, I guess.

And the resistance is around 10 MEGOhms,  is that right?  That seems awful high.

I know. And I will retest. I also forgot to say that there's a zener diode, because in one direction, I have absolutly no contact. On both seat. 

1 hour ago, George_97220 said:

Are you SURE that there isn't a switch under the  seat? To sense when someone is sitting there?
Otherwise, the "seat belt open" indication would be on all the time.

Again, sorry, I don't have the same year/model as you, but where is the seatbelt retractor? In the side post or wall? That's probably where the seatbelt switch is. Either there, or in the buckle, next to the seat. Just look for a wire coming out of the buckle cover.
The seat pressure sensor will be under the seat, of course. I'm guessing the rear seat sensor is much simpler than what I'm looking at in my 2012 front seat, which also has the airbag detector, etc., etc. 
 

Sure, two wires, to the belt buckle, the lower part of the seat can be flip out with out any cable. 

 But, you're right, I Should test again, to be sure. Perhaps change the ohmeter, to be sure. 

 

Thanks again. 

 

[Slovas]

I'm coming back with more data and less understanding.
I retest the seat with 3 different multimeters. 2 digital and an old one with a needle.

Clearly, there's something acting like a diode in the circuit, blocking the current on one direction.
Both digital multimeter have a diode test, confirming it, but no full connection in the right direction. And using them as ohmmeter doesn't give any logic value. 
The old multimeter cannot test diode, but give a 350 ohm result.

In addition, there's no change with the buckle plug or not. Which bother me. No change means I don't know what's tested by the car.

On other test, it seems that the second row seatbelts have the same behaviour, So if someone already work on it, I take any information. 

My next moved will be to find the electrical scheme for this car, it seems that I can consult them on Etis. But it's 8€ for 1h consultation. 
So if anyone have access to it, or have already this kind of electric scheme, I take it.

Have a good day

[Don Ridley]

The wiring diagram will not show the circuit inside the module. It is impossible to determine the circuit by taking measurements with a voltmeter or any other device. I do not understand why you can't leave a seatbelt plugged in or simulate the connection. I have not looked at the seatbelts so I don't know how they signal the connection status. But I would try to determine what is needed to simulate the signal by taking the seatbelt switch apart. Buy a used seatbelt from a salvage yard to experiment with.

[Don Ridley]

Here is the wiring for a 2016. The seatbelt is shown as a simple switch.

 

Forscan has an option to turn off the passenger seat belt minder. I don't know if it works or if it applies to a 2019.