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Switched power source up top?


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Does anyone know if there's a switched 12v source of power up near the eyeglass holder/map shelf in a '14 wagon?

I'd like to mount a dash cam up there. Before I go pulling things apart, I thought maybe someone already knows and can save me some time.

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  • 4 years later...
   

I was just going to start a new thread but was not able to in the Accessories and Modifications section to ask this exact question.  I have installed my garage door remote in the trim piece that easily prys off the center of the overhead console.  I am frustrated by having to replace the battery and i also used a very small button from the remote's circuit board to actuate it.  I drilled a very small hole and mounted it flush.  It looks very nice because you cant really see it as the button head is the same color as the panel.  Unfortunately, I have a hard time finding it in the dark.

So i have decided to do a couple modifications.  I would like to add a 12V to 3V step down off a switched power line and would prefer it come from the overhead center console like the OP.  Note that my van is the Titanium trim and I have the glass roof and the auto wipers.  There is certainly power up there.  

I also hope to install a new button that has an LED ring so i will need switched power for that as well.  

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No dedicated outlet I'm aware of. Don't suppose you have an OEM backup camera? Swipe some 12v from the mirror maybe? 

 

If not, it's not all that difficult to loosen up the windshield moulding and run a new wire up the post and across to wherever you want to mount accessories. I did that for a couple bookshelf speakers here.

 

dual-rear-speakers.jpg

 

Goes without say, you'd want to make sure whatever you put up there is tied down good. I just drilled a couple holes in the shelf and screwed the speakers in from underneath - great jams!

Edited by sKiZo
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Thanks.  That's a great idea for speakers.  I just realized that my garage remote is the kind that cycles codes.  Whenever i replace the battery i have to pair the remote with the opener.  So hooking the converter to the switched line isn't going to work for me.  ?  I will measure the current draw out of the car and if the 12 to 3 conversion loss isn't too bad i may proceed.

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I just measured the draw on the unloaded converter.  Using a battery charger as the input, I had 12.7V on the unloaded leads.  With the converter as the only load, and nothing on it’s output, it drew 7.2mA.  That seems high considering I don’t want to be over 50 for the whole van. Thoughts?

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I mounted a dashcam on my '14 wagon up top and just tucked the wires in the trim down to the passenger fuse box with one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC2329/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'd never know there's a wire with it all tucked away. I wound up using an "add a circuit" to piggyback the switched fuse in there.  

https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-transit-connect-2014-2018-fuses-and-relay

There's a 7.5A switched fuse at F85 that worked like a charm.

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I ended up using switched power off the connector that was easily accessible at the headliner when I removed the shelf.  I also found unswitched power there and used it for the converter.  When loaded, the voltage dropped to 4v.  Took off the converter, put it on the switched line and all seems to be working well.  Not sure why the garage remote works with power removed all the time.

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