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djcaswel

Rplacing roof brake light module

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I love the head room in my Transit Connect but I broke the roof mounted brake light going into a parking garage. I can't see how to get at the two nuts that hold the module onto the roof. Any ideas before I start breaking things?

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I love the head room in my Transit Connect but I broke the roof mounted brake light going into a parking garage. I can't see how to get at the two nuts that hold the module onto the roof. Any ideas before I start breaking things?

.ACCORDING TO THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, SIMPLY REMOVE THE REAR PIN-TYPE RETAINERS AND LOWER THE HEADLINER. DISCONNECT THE ELEVTRICAL CONNECTOR. REMOVE THE TWO NUTS AND THE HIGH MOUNTED STOPLAMP WILL COME OFF. REVERSE TO INSTALL. LAMP PART NUMBER IS W705277

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.ACCORDING TO THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, SIMPLY REMOVE THE REAR PIN-TYPE RETAINERS AND LOWER THE HEADLINER. DISCONNECT THE ELEVTRICAL CONNECTOR. REMOVE THE TWO NUTS AND THE HIGH MOUNTED STOPLAMP WILL COME OFF. REVERSE TO INSTALL. LAMP PART NUMBER IS W705277

Well, that was all very interesting. Thanks for the first clue as to how to go about it. For others like me who haven't wrestled with Ford headliner retainers, etc here is how it went. The retainer pins are one way devices with barbs like on a bee's stinger: they go in, but won't come out without damaging the barbs. They can be re-used but it might be worth ordering a few ($8 for a pack of 4). Trying to pry them out with a couple of screw drivers won't work because you have to get right into the centre shaft or you weaken the plastic and the top tears off. I went out and bought a trim remover. It looks like a thin, baby crowbar and let's you pry right at the centre of the pin where the plastic is strongest. Even so, you have to watch what you are prying against, or you will damage the headliner. I only took off the pins along the back (4) . It seemed to be asking for trouble to take the whole thing down. The two nuts are hard to get at and require a 10mm deep socket with a 1/4 inch drive. The nut and washer are fastened together which helps installation. Pretty fussy job, but it came out OK. I will have to get one new pin to replace the one I broke.

Meanwhile, I am designing and buiding a system that allows me to use the TC as either a mini repair shop (attachments for a vice, bench motor, work bench, tool caddy etc) or re-configure it into a camper. Both set ups allow the back seat to stay on place for travel and then fold up for work or camping. We take the inaugural run next week. I will try to post some pictures when it is presentable. Lots of fun with the welder. Thanks again for the help.

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Thanks very much for posting this. I was about to tackle removing the roof brake light on my TC, when I looked at those retainer buttons and decided to search "headliner" here first. Your post was just what I was hoping to find.

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I installed a satellite dish on the roof and I need to feed 3 wires from the antenna into the vehicle. I was hoping to go through the rear brake light assy, obviously cutting it to feed the wires, but hoping to avoid having to drill into the sheet metal. The 3 wires are coaxial, so as thick as a pencil. The question to you guys who have removed the light is, will there be enough room to feed the 3 wires into the cabin or should I not even attempt it? The satellite controller and modem are right behind the passenger seat, so if my only choice is drilling, I would feed them right from under the antenna and come down the B-pillar. If I can feed them through the stop light housing, it would be worth routing the 3 cables in the middle ridge of the roof, going in through the light, and coming back to the modem feeding the wires under the headliner. Any input would be appreciated.

In case you are wondering, the TC is equipped with a workbench and all the equipment to reprogram engine control units (for performance) and it is intended to be used as a trackside programming vehicle. The satellite is used to transmit-receive RSA keys and checksums when we program the car through the OBD-II ports or in BDM mode.

SatLink_Web_004.jpg

Edited by flpavoncelli

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I installed a satellite dish on the roof and I need to feed 3 wires from the antenna into the vehicle. I was hoping to go through the rear brake light assy, obviously cutting it to feed the wires, but hoping to avoid having to drill into the sheet metal. The 3 wires are coaxial, so as thick as a pencil. The question to you guys who have removed the light is, will there be enough room to feed the 3 wires into the cabin or should I not even attempt it? The satellite controller and modem are right behind the passenger seat, so if my only choice is drilling, I would feed them right from under the antenna and come down the B-pillar. If I can feed them through the stop light housing, it would be worth routing the 3 cables in the middle ridge of the roof, going in through the light, and coming back to the modem feeding the wires under the headliner. Any input would be appreciated.

In case you are wondering, the TC is equipped with a workbench and all the equipment to reprogram engine control units (for performance) and it is intended to be used as a trackside programming vehicle. The satellite is used to transmit-receive RSA keys and checksums when we program the car through the OBD-II ports or in BDM mode.

SatLink_Web_004.jpg

As far as posts in this forum, only DJCASWEL has actually seen the roof brake light removed. It uses a two pin connector, so I do not think it will be large enough for your three coax cables. Another solution would be to run the coax past the roof brake light and down between the top edge of the door and the edge of the roof. There is plenty of room to pass the coax. Then run it through the right side of the rectangular roof vents. That gets you into the space between the interior roof lining and the roof. Seal the roof vent opening with Coax-Seal or some silicone sealent that does not react with the coax. Of course, since you do remote communications for a living, I am sure you already know everything I suggested!

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As far as posts in this forum, only DJCASWEL has actually seen the roof brake light removed. It uses a two pin connector, so I do not think it will be large enough for your three coax cables. Another solution would be to run the coax past the roof brake light and down between the top edge of the door and the edge of the roof. There is plenty of room to pass the coax. Then run it through the right side of the rectangular roof vents. That gets you into the space between the interior roof lining and the roof. Seal the roof vent opening with Coax-Seal or some silicone sealent that does not react with the coax. Of course, since you do remote communications for a living, I am sure you already know everything I suggested!

Or...... Since I am sure you do not have the dish in operation while moving, how about this alternative.........

Mount 3 coax connectors (right angle N(?) female connector with solder end on the other end) in the plate that covers the european third brake light mounting hole in the left rear door. When you get to were you need to be, just connect the cables from the dish to the N connectors. As for connectivity to your communications gear, run the cables from the solder end of the connectors down through the door to the panel below the window. Do the same thing as outside except right angle connectors are not necessary. Now all you would have to do is connect the cables for your gear to the connectors inside the door and you now have connectivity to the dish.

I did some thing similar, but on a simpler level.

I mounted a right angle BNC female connector on the european brake light that fits in place of the American blank place. I then ran the coax through the door to the flex hose between the door and the body of the Transit Connect.. Then I ran the coax inside the panels up to the front to connect to my Ham Radio.

I posted a picture in my gallery.

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On reading a post about the high third brake light being a leak waiting to happen I bought a door panel connector removal tool and a 10mm deep 1/4" drive socket I wanted to lift the light up to put a bead of silicone between the rubber gasket and light assembly and around the wire route hole and the two bolt holes. By removing the four rear headliner connectors and pulling the rear of the headliner down I was able to access the two 10mm nuts. There was no sign of a leak, I did add the silicone so there is even less chance of a leak now.

It wouldn't be too hard to fill the three small holes with rubber plugs and add the Euro-version door-mounted light if you wanted to.

I forgot to mention the the two 10mm nuts that hold the light on were barely finger tight. I don't know what the torque spec is, but I did use a ratchet to reattach them.

Edited by MarkH

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On reading a post about the high third brake light being a leak waiting to happen I bought a door panel connector removal tool and a 10mm deep 1/4" drive socket I wanted to lift the light up to put a bead of silicone between the rubber gasket and light assembly and around the wire route hole and the two bolt holes. By removing the four rear headliner connectors and pulling the rear of the headliner down I was able to access the two 10mm nuts. There was no sign of a leak, I did add the silicone so there is even less chance of a leak now.

It wouldn't be too hard to fill the three small holes with rubber plugs and add the Euro-version door-mounted light if you wanted to.

My guess is that many of us may be doing this in a few years! The euro version light probably would cost a lot to obtain in the states and may present problems with state safety inspections.

Better idea for Ford: How about a simple screw on the top of the ridiculous thing!! Don't they employ engineers any more?

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djcaswei & others I had a similar experience in a parking garage 6 months after I purchased my TRANSIT in 2010. I was totally aware of the 6' 8" height & had been in the same garage 2 weeks earlier but this time there was an internal fire door that caught & sheared off the upper break light. For 2 .5 years I have avoided the headliner removal & light replacement by adapting my self -designed low profile UNISTRUT roof rails to rest on top of the light fixture plus a little 3M Windo-Weld to seal out the water. It has performed flawlessly.

But now I am ready to tackle a permanent repair/modification. I have a Black Perl TRANSIT that is always parked outside it gets really hot from good old solar energy. I am planning on installing a solar powered circular ventilator in the same location as the brake light to help dump the excess heat. Since I have to make a 3" hole to accomodate the ventilator I have already fabricated an EPDM gasket to counter act the roof dimples. But I still want a brake light up there !

Has anyone out there done something similar ? Does anyone have a recommendation for after-market roof mounted light bars ?

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What's wrong with the Euro brake light in terms of safety? The fact that it's off center by 4"?

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MRTF: I think that is the "problem".

Its fine for the U.S. government to establish standards. They have to do that, But they should also retain enough flexibility to be able say "Oh okay, close enough, that'll work."

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not sure if any of you have had this problem! the high mount light gets bumped back a little,cut wires and smell wires burning inside,short time later you can not shift gears, lever locked.Light blows fuse to brake inter lock,unplug light, replace fuse and you can drive,I have had this happen on 3 off 6 of my Connects

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Its a pain to remove and reinstall but a bit of patience is all it takes. When I broke mine off it ended up denting the roof and had a water leak. I ended up removing and reinstalling but this time I used a whole small tube of auto rubber sealant to make sure 100% it was water tight.

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