KevinH Posted September 26, 2022 Share Posted September 26, 2022 I'm a new member and this is to introduce myself. I have a Connect L1 H1 Duratorq 1.6. It's an early 2016 model in Frozen White and has a very basic spec.... Currently fitting additional interior lighting and reversing camera. I undertake my own servicing and have become quite familiar with the vehicle over the last 4 years. I have pictures of my work which will hopefully be of use to other members. Thank you for letting me join and I look forward to sharing helpful information. mrtn and BSJBSJ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 18 hours ago, KevinH said: Currently fitting additional interior lighting and reversing camera. In my van, I found that replacing the OEM light bulbs with LED was enough to make the interior bright enough. At least for my eyes. You might want to try that first. The backup cameras are now very inexpensive online. A few things to consider are how to run the wires, and what type of monitor you plan to use. Do you already have an aftermarket radio with a screen that you can use for a monitor? Are you installing a monitor? There are also wireless camera and monitor kits, so that you don't have to do as much work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinH Posted September 27, 2022 Author Share Posted September 27, 2022 Hello - thanks for replying. I have a kit from Revcam.uk with a rear-view mirror type clip over monitor and a CMOS camera. I intend to tap into the existing wiring harness to access the trigger wire (reversing lamp) and will find somewhere a permanent live (or a live which is load-shedded from the Body control Module). There is no display header unit on my model - as I say its a very basic ex-lease van which only has Fords own basic (poor) radio. Where the header unit is on current models is just a cubby hole. One irritating point is that my Connect appears not to have a CCP. I also intend to install a small inverter which will need to be fed from the battery-box mounted busbar via the Mid-Fuse bank. I know the grown-up Transit has a CPP under the driver seat. Although I am not an auto-electrician I am a qualified installation electrician to BS7671 18th Edition so am aware of the electrical design considerations regarding cable sizing, volt-drop and protection etc.. However any advice from you guys would be most appreciated. PS - the approach lights which activate every time a door is opened is bloody annoying. I've already flattened the battery with this stupid feature. I believe the only way to fix it is to reprogram the BCM with FORSCAN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 9 hours ago, KevinH said: rear-view mirror type clip over monitor I had one. Worked okay. Maybe better to look up at the mirror, than looking down at the dash, when reversing. I still like looking over my shoulder. Mine was a cheap one from Amazon. It still worked. You probably have something nicer. 10 hours ago, KevinH said: its a very basic ex-lease van which only has Fords own basic (poor) radio. Just a few days ago, I got a better radio with a screen. Then I removed the backup camera monitor on the mirror, and ran the wire to the new radio. Something you can think about doing, before you install the mirror monitor. 10 hours ago, KevinH said: However any advice from you guys would be most appreciated. PS - the approach lights which activate every time a door is opened is bloody annoying. There are already threads on reprogramming to "dark mode". Also threads on installing backup cameras, radios, extra power ports, etc. You may want to read the thread on exchanging automatic transmission fluid. If the 2016 van had the original battery, that's probably why it died. It's old. That battery was 6 years . Batteries usually have a 36 month warranty. There's a thread about upgrading to a better battery. Questionable about what "better" means. Maybe more cranking amps. But the factory battery starts fine. Will it last longer? My 2016 still has the original battery. My F-150 OEM battery lasted 9 years. An Optima battery which costs twice as much only lasted 5 years. KevinH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Here's info on wiring high amperage loads. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6077-how-to-connect-power-for-amps-inverters-and-other-high-current-loads/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinH Posted September 29, 2022 Author Share Posted September 29, 2022 Thank you so much for the information so far. Hopefully I'll have something to share soon..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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