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Hey hi, 2nd owner from a fleet with some quirks to figure out. 1) they had a security system installed and all it took to unhook it was a yank of one wire under the dash - sounds fishy, and the security lights still come on. ... it's killed the start once. Dealership said, it's "fine". 'should' work ... ? second situation, no one can figure out where the trickle drain on the battery is coming from after pulling individual fuses, checking all points, but when it rains, The TC won't start the next day. Anyone else had that? We haul, all livestock and animals in our van.

Greetings. New guy, here. I just bought a 2013, and, it must be freshest example in North America: 4900 miles. I bought from a dealer. I think the older folks that had it may have found it too lacking in luxury, and mostly kept it stored in a barn. Got 28.5 mph on the 230 mile trip home. I chose the Gen 1 for the extra inches of cargo head room. And, I like the looks. I have read a good bit of this forum over the past few months. Now, I have 3 questions, 2 of which are not well addressed in the owner manual: 1) My TC has SYNC, with the button pod below the turn signal control. The icons for phone and seek actions are unclear to me. It seems to indicate that the entire control pod can be flipped up or down, like a turn signal, or, maybe that the entire control can be moved forward and back, like a headlight dimmer. But, when I test these actions, it seems like too much force would be required, and would risk breaking something that may NOT be designed to move. What am I missing, here? 2) Locking the vehicle, to walk away... I can do this with the key remote. Or, I can do this with the key inserted in the lock. What I can not figure out, is how to flip the interior lock switch at the opener lever, to walk away. That lock switch seems to allow lock and unlock of all doors, while sitting in the van, only. If I'm standing outside the van and flip the lock switch, it just switches itself back to unlock position. What am I missing, here? 3) Knowing the transmissions are the weak point of the Gen 1, I will plan on doing regular fluid changes. Would like to buy a new transmission pan for $30, and have a petcock drain added to it, ready for an initial filter and fluid change. Petcock to allow easier container and measurement of fluid drained, over simply a drain plug. I think some here have done pan drains, so, what type of petcock drains have been added, and what location on the pan works best? I would not want to mod a pan, only to find out the drain is in an inappropriate position for something inside. Thanks a lot!

I bought a 2012 transit that had the dash replaced after a small fire. The seller told me he also replaced the wiring harness. My main problem is that i'm getting DTC codes for no communication to RCS and TPM. Along with that there are a few other weird bugs. No turn signal dash lights, (they work in the self test), no ac or recirculation (buttons work when monitored in forscan) no door chime or any chimes, and lastly no fuel gauge. (circuit open). I replaced the RCS module and no cigar. I noticed while looking through the shop manual that NONE of the MS-CAN modules show up on my scanner, so I measured the DTC connector MS-CAN termination resistance and its within spec of 55-66 omhs. I'm pretty lost here. any help would be great. I also have a code for the MS-CAN, U0010.

Looking to make my van a bit friendlier. Currently outfitted with full racks/shelves and bulkhead, happy to trade those fro seats or buy outright. Located in CA, about to drive to Tulsa OK and back next week, so if you're along that route and have seats to sell, PM me!

I would like to upgrade my head unit on my 2012 XLT Cargo. Looking for something double din with the ability to view the OEM camera through the screen. I would still like to maintain the external volume controls. An included microphone would be great ( as the OEM one is terrible! ). Not interested in breaking the bank with Navigation and the like. If anyone has any recommendations I would like to hear them!

Been while since I posted on the forum. Restaurant is really taking off and time is tight. Perhaps you recall that I own a 2011 and a 2012 Connect which I use as food trucks and delivery vehicles. I love these little trucks and they are making me a nice amount of money. Developed a serious problem in the 2012 this week end. The truck started to shift slow, rev between gears, and fail to disengage first gear when coming to a stop. Checked the transmission fluid and found it was a quart low. Added a quart and the transmission started acting a little better. Went to the truck the following morning and found a huge puddle of ATF under it. Jacked it up and found obvious gaps in the pan gasket. (Wish I had taken photos but alas.....) Bolts were all tight. Had it towed to the mechanic. He swapped out the gasket and transmission is acting perfect. BTW, in the second photo, the bus on the right is NOT a heavily modified TC.....just in case you were wondering.

I have a 2012 TC radio with the USB input. Reception was decent for years but recently has diminished to the point of I don't really get any AM stations and only a few FM stations intermittently. (I'm in a NYC suburb where I should get the 50kw AMs and two-3 dozen FM stations at least). My thought was that the antenna had become disconnectd from the radio, but I just did the work to pull the unit out and the antenna is connected solidly. I don't know how to check the other end for connectivity or something broken between the antenna and cable. Or do I just conclude the radio has died, and go for an aftermarket. But afraid I will lose the AUX and sync functionality....does any aftermarket radio allow you to keep that functionality?

Hello all, I have a 2012 TC, 111k miles. The problem is when I am low speed, or stopped, in park or drive, the instrument cluster, radio and a.c. shut down, then the cluster either returns to normal, or it comes off and on a couple times before returning to normal, during this time the engine runs normal. The computer is logging low voltage errors, I'm on the 3rd mechanic, including the dealer and they have no idea what's going on. Having issues seem to be proceeded by pulsing during braking ( feels like warped rotors) I am leaning towards bad computer, could It be something else?