tworock

Save yourself some hassle longterm. Install a fumoto valve. Learned about them long ago as a fix for old Ford Aerostars. My Connect is a 2010, the first improvement I made, never a problem.

LMAO and it ain't even funny. The toughest part of the whole thing is getting the adhesive off. I'm an old painter and have tried laquer thinner, naptha, paint thinner, WD-40, de-natured alchohol and a couple of others - nothing much is very good at melting the adhesive, which I'd guess you have to remove COMPLETELY before you get to thinking about re-attachment of old or new weather strip. I paid the premium for the 3M adhesive remover in the spraycan, (my recommendation is save your money, $14.95 for an aerosol can,) and try one of the others. The thinners proved no bite for the bulk of removal, you seem to have to have the adhesive almost completely mechanically removed (in my case thumb and thumbnail working best) then go back with a thinner of some sort and work about a half-inch at a time. The rubber weatherstrip itself seams to have been originally installed with two sided adhesive tape - if you're retired like me, peel it back a bit at a time off of the paint or rubber with the thumb. Or, buy new parts, but the adhesive needs to be completely removed. I remember as a younger guy trying to paint over adhesive residue from tape on walls, no go. (Note: my Transit is a 2010, it's now 2019 and the final straw for the failure was the Chicago area heat wave a week or two ago.) Edit - need to mention Zep Big Orange-E posted by another member several posts ago. I've never used it but will buy a can if they have it at AutoZone wen I go back to return the 3M.

Thanks GBL and Fifty 150. I waited until after mid afternoon in sunshine to try again. Worked it ever so slowly back and forth, maybe 20 times, and got it to open ( I have a protective cargo safety fence between cargo area and cockpit.) Afterwards, still incredibly tight. Application of WD40 to hinges (what's the superior lubricant for the location???) helped a bunch - absolutely no discernible ice anywhere - weird! Had to put a trickle 2 amp charge on the battery when it wouldn't turn over (!) and the windshield edge of the hood, now there was ice! Incredible cause and effect of record cold in the good old Chicago suburbs and Midwest. Hell apparently froze over and I slipped and whacked my noggin on the thin sheet of ice on the neighbors drive. Geezus! Stay warm!!

You should have seen what a dear did to my front end. 67 mph, center lane, 2:37 am eastbound through Eliria, OH. $9,800.00.

2010 Transit Connect - Currently experiencing the great "Polar Vortex" of 1/30/19 in the Chicago suburbs! Because of ladder racks, the truck is kept in the drive-way. Went out to start car to make sure I was all good on that front. Here's what happened; I had squirted some de-icer into the locks yesterday before parking for the night. Went out a bit ago just to start the car for a few minutes and the de-icer had done it's job, the key (manual locks) turned like a charm and I opened the door - ALL OF ABOUT THREE INCHES! It feels like a hinge part is being blocked or impeded. I went to try the passenger door - same deal. I'm afraid to give the doors a heavy yank for fear of breaking or stressing a part that's not supposed to be stressed. Anybody have any experience with the hinge mechanisms that might be my problem? Should I give the door a good pull?

Sorry folks, found the procedure at MAINTAINANCE > 5W 30 Synthetic Oil Use > (scroll to March 2, 2017) GBL Post "Here's the post I did on changing the Transmission fluid it could help" > click on "Transmission Oil Change"

Any good links showing actual procedure?

I drive my TC occasionally between Santa Fe and Willowbrook, IL. Each of those cities have a Ford dealership. One of them, after a regular rotation paid for by me, sent me cross country with 49 lbs. in the fronts and 36 in the rear. No lights the entire trip.

Local dealer ordered new lock or barrel or tumbler 8/07/13. My hood lock will not turn to open, had to take 3,500 mile trip LOADED and couldn't access engine compartment for service or checks. Three to four weeks later, dealer telling me order shows "engineering change" on new part to be released at some future date. I imaging you had some similar failure; good luck. I'll post with my resolution. I must say, I also seem to remember my fuel door lock has been a little touchy from time to time. If anybody recognizes a similar problem they may have fixed, please advise. Today's date - 9/3/13.

My base 2010 TC came with no step protection at the driver and passenger doors. While doing some general waxing and cleaning yesterday I noticed a little scuffing. Anybody bought anything they really like?

Willie, my real name is Willie, and I know when I'm NOT being taken for a ride! I'm a 44 Long and there is no getting under for me...but I did take a couple of 2"x10"x14" long and put the butt up to the front tires and drove on up! That 2" allowed me to slip right under just like a cement curb. Coming out is a whole different adventure, but if your ability to exhale is impaired you're in deep doo-doo... I'm extra glad I've now installed the Fumoto WITH THE ADAPTOR. In a couple of days I'll have the proper parts numbers. By the next time I need to do an oil change, I'll be chuckling at Ford, maybe, and reaching with my extra, extra long arm that I intend to grow by then.

Well, heck, I'm not a particularly large guy (6'1' - 195 lbs.) How the heck do you fellas get under these things to do an oil change!?

Thank You!

Cabmeister, what size extension was that (or, are there multiple sizes of extensions?) Does it come with one of those blue washers and did you use both washers? Lastly, did you Loctite them in and what color did you use?

Sorry....from Darek at Inlad on Lombard in Addison, Illinois......great folks.

Purchased the Alurack by Prime design from Darek (above) in Lombard. Great experience!

While we're talking about oil changes: Are you folks familiar with the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve. My other vehicle is a Jeep Liberty CRD (diesel). One of the things other owners and I found was that putting a steel drain plug into an aluminum pan quickly wore out the threads in the pan even with dealer oil changes. The L.O.S.T. solution quickly became the Fumoto Valve once we had moved on to our second pans. I'm getting ready to do my first oil change on the TransCon and will be installing their model size F-106. Once it's in, no more in and out. Here's the link; http://www.fumotousa.com/ Runs in the neighborhood of $25.00 plus shipping. One other thing; the Connect took on a deer eastbound on I-80 near Elyria, OH at 65mph and survived. Repair cost in the neighborhood of $7,600.00

Has anybody mounted their own roof racks? Are, or do, the standard mounting points appear to be really strong? And, do you think I could get additional mounting points from Ford and install them myself so I could shore up and add stability to a roof rack that needs 6 mounting holes?

Say fellas, have any of you tried to carry any drywall with this unit? If so, how many sheets?

Connect Owner UK - it's interesting that you believe that that screening is there as shading. The service guy at the dealership I stopped at seemed to think it was there for and integral to "Work Solutions." I'm telling you fella's, I've got the two vehicles in the world that dealers just seem to know nothing about ...my other vehicle is an '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (diesel). When I first had the TransCon, I ended calling one of the folks at corporate somewhere to find out if my clock could be changed from military time (or is this the way time is kept in Turkey or Europe?) After much time and not being able to produce a definitive answer the woman contacted my local dealership (the same dealership) who said they would be happy to assist me. When I got there it took a service writer plenty of time to realize that he couldn't help after all. At about the 45 minute mark, a computer savvy young man finally found that, by gosh, no, you can't change the clock to 12 hour mode (this is a base model TransCon.) So fellas, which is it? Is the screening material integral to Work Solutions or is it there as shading? Fun stuff............

Thanks for the quick response, tjump.

OK, folks. Don't know quite where to put this question for the greatest response, but since the Illinois Tollway Transponder most often and in most vehicles is attached to the interior of the windshield, I'll pose my question here. I purchased my tollway transponder today. I only live 3-4 miles away from the Illinois toll authority and went down there to buy it. In the mounting brochure, there is a section specifically devoted to "Special Windshields." In this special section, it says that some vehicles have features that interfere with signals sent from I-PASS transponders. Here's my question.... On the window surrounding the rear view mirror is some sort of screening or meshed material. Does anybody know what this material is and whether or not it interferes with a toll transponder's ability to send or receive signals? My installation guide states that "if you are unsure if your vehicle has one of the mentioned features" that interfere with the signal, CONTACT YOUR CAR DEALERSHIP! I stopped at the Ford dealer on the way home. They have no idea, even as they are the Ford dealer closest to the Toll Authority sales offices. So, do any of you folks in Illinois or states EAST of Illinois know if a toll transponder will work if it's mounted in the recommended location?

Where are you at CCBS? I'm in the Chicago area, and if shipping was cheap enough, I'd buy them. Remember, I think they are about $60.00 from the dealer.

Any way to move this to "Maintenance, TSB's and Recalls"?

I've had two cars on which I've had to degunk the heater cores of debris from Cottonwood trees. On the first one, I had to resort to use of a WATER PIK, in the winter, in the old unheated garage, because almost no air was getting through. So, this news of an available air filter is indeed good news.