jakeru

The local ford dealer provided me with the replacement lug nuts; in stock for $5/pc. ( Part number CV6Z-1012-C ). On closer inspection, rest of the old lug nuts on my transit connect aren’t in that great shape, so they may all need to be replaced... I found it interesting that this same basic nut has been updated somewhat from a very similar version found on my 2001 Focus. Both nuts (2014 Transit Connect shown pictured on left, 2001 Focus on right) are stainless steel-capped, acorn style, with the same thread specification and same overall length, and same 19mm wrenching surface dimensions. The transit connect’s lug nuts are however a little wider diameter where the stainless cap flares out, and this makes the 19mm diameter wrenching surfaces also a little shorter. This design change may make it more important to fully engage the wrench on the transit connect-style nut. I haven’t had any issues with the 17 year old, > 100k mile focus nuts, but I also don’t live in the salt belt. (This used transit connect on the other hand, lived most of its life in Tennessee). I always use a proper fitting lug wrench and use a torque wrench (to proper torque specifications), and I also maintain a light coating of anti-seize on the threads, so maybe that makes a difference in how long these things last.

[Forum would not let me edit previous post to correct typeographical errors, so here is the corrected version - feel free to disregard post above and mods, feel free to delete] Not sure what condition your tires are in, but when it comes time to replace them, do look into getting a type that has been tested to produce low noise. In my experience driving on WA state roads, this can really make a difference! On a 2001 Ford Focus wagon that needed its tires replaced (to a large extent simply because of how noisey the old ones had gotten! Suggest avoiding “Cooper” tires if noise is important), I researched different tires and went with a Pirelli tire model which was tested to produce very low noise: (Tire rack user surveys rated it 9.1/10 ride quality and 8.9/10 in noise.) https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Pirelli&tireModel=Cinturato+P7+All+Season+Plus My family has been extremely happy with the low-noise Pirelli’s on our Focus wagon, which I think is not much unlike our 2014 Transit Connect in how they ride and drive. (E.g., Both are “non-luxury”, front-wheel drive Fords.) When the transit connect is due for tires, I’d consider doing something similar with using a “quiet” tire. By the way, I just looked at the extra set of wheels my 2014 used transit connect came with (which are the original 16” tires, and according to the seller, also the original tires), and it seems those are “Continental ContiProContact”: (And for what it’s worth, I see Tirerack user surveys rated these “original” tires at only 7.4/10 in ride quality and 7.0/10 in noise) https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ContiProContact

Not sure what condition your tires are in, but when it comes time to replace them, do look into getting a type that has been tested to produce low noise. It can really make a difference. On a 2001 Ford Focus wagon that’s recently needed it’s tires replaced (to a large extent because of how noisey the old ones had gotten!) I researched different tires and went with this pirelli model which was tested to produce very low noise: (Tire rack user surveys rated it 9.1/10 ride quality and 8.9/10 in noise.) https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Pirelli&tireModel=Cinturato+P7+All+Season+Plus Extremely happy with the low-noise pirelli’s on the Focus wagon, which may not be all that unlike the transit connect. Would consider doing something similar for the transit connect. Not sure what the noise qualities are on the original tires the transit connects come with, but it seems very often, tires can be noisier just as they wear. How much they are inflated them can have some affect on noise and subject ride quality (Generally all referred to as “NVH” = noise, vibration, and harshness in the auto trade) By the way, I just looked at the extra set of wheels my 2014 transit connect came (which are the original 16” tires and according to the seller also the original 16” tires), and it they are “Continental ContiProContact”: (Tirerack user surveys rated at only 7.4/10 in ride quality and 7.0/10 in noise) https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ContiProContact

Nah, the battery simply was at end of life - nothing wrong with the charging system. In my experience, and testing, imbalance that develops between the cells (some can have current leakage more than others) can result in some cells being undercharged, and others overcharged (thus, if the situation gets bad enough, causing the electrolyte to boil in the most overcharged cellsnwhen the “simple” 14.4v charming system series-charges all cells with the exact same current). If the imbalance of any cell becomes bad enough, it can cause boiling of the electrolyte in the overcharged cell, and corresponding pressure build-up, and eventually, acid-vapor release. (And it doesn’t matter whether the liquid electrolyte is absorbed into a gel or fiberglass mat, or simply in a flooded bath - it can and will “boil” when overcharged to a high enough degree, just the same.) ‘Flooded’ batteries nowadays are sealed (aka “valve regulated”, VRLA, or “maintenance free”) - just the same way that AGM batteries are. I’ve drilled holes in old batteries and put multimeters and charging probes on individual cells to better understand this common lead-acid battery failure mode, and I’ve even been able to revive “dead” battery (although only temporarily) by manually balancing each cell, to restore the balance. It was short lived because whatever condition, like inter-cell current leakage that caused the imbalance in the first place didn’t get fixed, so cause the battery to become imbalanced a few days later.) Other more “finicky” (and dangerous) battery chemistries like lithium ion have active balancers for each cell. Lead acid can tolerate a mild bit of overcharging without issue, so tend not to have cell balancers, as the charging circuit and wiring is much more complicated. A battery will only give good cranking power when it’s cells are balanced and relatively charged up. In any case, I’m glad to hear you were able to mount your oversized battery without any perceived safety issue.

Hi Don, the only reason I mentioned the “100 month warranty” on the battery I got is to distinguish it between another battery model/quality version offered by Ford for the same vehicle. This version I got is also branded as their “max” I think, is apparently the higher of the two quality levels, but really it a no-brainer decision for me as the only type that the local Ford dealers seemed to have in stock, the price was good, it had a recent build date, I knew it would fit as good as the original battery fit, and it got my car back on the road in short order after the original battery failed. But, let’s be realistic - I’m going to assume will get another 4-5 years out of it, nothing more, unless I get lucky. Expecting a battery ford advertises as “100 month or 80 month” warranty to actually last that long is setting yourself up for disappointment. With this talk about “1/2” taller” and “fits on tight” you guys are talking about for the group 48 AGM battery you found, I sure hope you’ve verified there is nothing metallic above the battery compartment area? Arcing the battery terminals sure could cause a sudden release of energy and potential for a pretty dangerous situation. If the battery manufacturer doesn’t actually recommend this battery for our verhicles, probably it being 1/2” taller would be the reason why. I remember even the original battery to be an extremely tight fit back there. Even after removing the air filter housing, (both upper and lower pieces.) I have no doubt that AGM is superior technology to flooded acid, especially for certain uses like rapid discharge/charge. AGMs can outgas corrosive gas (my last optima did that around the positive terminal and caused a mess of the battery cables before it went.) Just want to mention that amongst battery options, the genuine battery is actually a pretty good deal (cheaper than most flooded acid aftermarket equivalents I looked at, and probably in no way “worse”.)

My 2014 transit connect came with a bodykit. It’s a custom job, though, not available for purchase. Customization was sponsored by Ford for the 2013 SEMA show when the cars first came out to the US. The body kit is made out of surprisingly thick, formed steel. The guy who made it used an English wheel. This would take a lot of skill to make, and be difficult to reproduce. I like it, but ground clearance in front when going through deep road valleys, I’ve had it bottom out before. The thick rolled edge at the bottom is very sturdy, but any impact is hard on the flexible bumper it’s mounted to, and front-end components, so really don’t want to do that if I can avoid it. It does affect at least a small bit how the car can be used/driven. The car has oversized wheels which I think makes this less of an issue, but am a bit concerned it’s going to be more of an issue if/when I put back the original wheels, (which I’d like to try doing here at some point.) Aftermarket modifications... so much easier to make things worse than they originall were. Hope this doesn’t dampen your enthusiasm. The car is unique and looks nice! Two-toned custom paint job, and custom front grill. I posted a picture in the introductions “sub-forum” if you want to check it out. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions. Have fun!

Glad I read this thread! I remember seeing some stray rubber strips in the back when I picked up (used) my 2024 transit connect, and I cuoldn’t figure out where they went. Now I have an idea of where to look.

I know some of you may have different battery needs, but I recently replaced the battery in my 2014 transit connect, which I just use for daily driving. Old battery died suddenly, 0v across terminals, so it was probably an internal short. I ended up going with a genuine motorcraft from the ford dealer, part number “BXT 40 R”. This is their “100 month warranty” battery and they were able to do it for $120 + tax, (+reimbursed $15 core deposit.) I don’t think there are any readily available AGM batteries that fit very well in the original spot - went through the same drill on the 2001 focus which actually use the same battery, none available like they are for other cars, due to the dimension/configuration. I got an interstate battery for that car at Costco which would fit perfect in the transit connect, but I don’t think it cost any less or is necessarily any better in quality than the genuine Ford battery I just got. Accessing the battery on the transit connect was a bit of a pain, as I learned that basically completely removing the air cleaner assembly was necessary to get it to slide forward and out. And oh, was that air filter dirty, so I changed that too while I was in there. (Probably need to put some routine maintenance for this car on the list - recent acquisition but with about 110k miles on the clock.) So far, it’s been a good car. Most of the issues I’ve had on it related to aftermarket equipment installed by the previous owner. But as far as the battery goes, think maybe the original, 2013-manufactured battery had just expired after ~5 years of use.

Love the color, titanium chrome trim, and wheel combo. :D Congrats!

Thanks for the info.

I've had an issue with the Sync infotainment system in my 2014 TC not accepting "set time" values. Very frustrating. It's clearly a software bug, as I think I discovered a "workaround" was to change the clock from 12-hr to 24-hr, and then back to 12-hr, and then the clock can be changed. I even updated my version of sync to the latest version (a process involving downloading the firmware to a USB memory stick, and plugging that into the transit connect USB port while undergoing a special, half hour long procedure to get it to update). Based on the clock not being able to be set as expected bug, not even fixed in the latest software, I'm not impressed at all by the Microsoft sync software used in the transit connect!

Thanks for the tip, jrm223! Will give simply repeatedly pushing the illumination level change button a massive # of times it a try!

My 2014 XLT's window sticker (<- try clicking the hyperlink to see) lists "DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS" as an option. My thoughts if this truly is an option would be to find and study how a gen 2 transit connect worked which didn't have this daytime running lamp option, and seek to change your car to that specification. I would be hesitant to do something "custom" / non-OE, for fear of unexpected, unintended, undesirable side effects. for what it's worth, my car also has "AUTO HEADLAMPS" option, but I haven't really warmed up to using it yet, for fear of it being too hard on the battery (I already had one episode of the battery being discharged to an extent that the vehicle required external charging before it would start... that wasn't too great.) It has annoyed me how the instrument lights always seem to be on, regardless of whether the "main/night-time headlamps/external running lamps" are on vs. off, as I'm frankly just used to having that feedback of the instrument lights being on vs off to remind me of whether headlights are on vs off, and that feedback is not really working in this car. Granted, this is the first daytime running lights car I've owned, but it's dangerous to drive without remembering to turn on the main night-time headlights/running lights. The way the vehicle is set up, seems to make it difficult to remember to turn them on. Another annoyance is that the instrument light illumination increase/decrease buttons don't seem to have any noticeable effect. Do other people's transit connects behave similarly, or might there be something wrong with mine? The car is still relatively new to me. and I am still working on reading through the complete 300+ page owner's manual, if anyone has any tips on those items, would be much appreciated! And op, good luck with disabling the daytime running lights. If you do try something, or can learn something about the cars available that didn't have this option, please let us know what you learn.

Thanks for the tip and write-up on the gen 2 atf change procedure, GBL and Beta Don! I just ordered from Advance Auto Parts several quarts of the Castrol "Transmax Synthetic Multi-Vehicle" Merton LV-compatible product for my newly-acquired 2014 XLT 2.5 Wagon.

I recently got a new used 2014 transit connect XLT, and it came with some aftermarket wheels installed, mostly with the style of non-locking lug nut shown in the attached picture, as well as some different looking lug nuts I think are probably aftermarket. Do these pictured lug nuts appear to be genuine/factory ford lug nuts? If so, does anyone know what their part number is, so that I can order more that match?

I just bought a used 2014 XLT with tons of options, and it has the rear back-up camera with rear "barn doors". Here is how the back up camera view looks. It shows the top of the rear bumper and the trailer hitch receiver. I just noticed the view is "mirror image", so left and right are reversed. Anyhow, it's the first vehicle I've owned with back-up camera. Very nice feature, especially on a longer vehicle like the LWB transit connect, along with the proximity sensors to keep you from running into curbs and other obstacles.

Attached is a profile shot of the whispbar extrusion. It looks like I might be able to just rip one of the side flanges off using a tablesaw. With one side flange trimmed off, it would put the overall width at 39mm (just a bit over 1.5"). I'm not sure if I'll do this, though. For now, to make things waterproof, I cleaned things up underneath the tracks, and plugged/covered all the holes so that it's waterproof. The installation wasn't as clean as I'd have liked. Assuming a roof rack install shop did this work, it's a cautionary tale to be careful about who you use to install aftermarket roof racks! Looks like sheetmetal screws were just screwed into drilled holes. The sheetmetal looked a lot thicker than I was expecting.

I can't really answer your question, but can add that my 2014 XLT Wagon has rain sensing wipers. I'm pretty sure it was an option (and this XLT seems fairly loaded with options...). It's really handy for the misty seattle area. Putting the wiper stalk in "wipe/intermittent" mode lets the rain sensors figure how how to adjust the intermittent delay (and I believe, also the wiper speed) without having to fiddle with the manual control. Very nice feature! This car is new to me, haven't had it yet even 2 weeks. Good luck

I may have found a good alternative to the Yakima plus nuts, from the McMaster-Carr catalog: https://www.mcmaster.com/#97217a359/=1ahm72u Zinc/Yellow Plated Steel Rivet Nut for Plastics 10-32 Internal Thread, 0.020"-0.175" Material Thickness $5.71 per pack of 10 97217A359 Material Zinc Yellow-Chromate-Plated Steel Thread Size 10-32 Thread Type UNF Thread Spacing Fine Thread Fit Class 2B Thread Direction Right Hand Drill Bit Size R Drill Bit Size Decimal Equivalent 0.339" For Material Thickness 0.020" to 0.175" Body Type Bulbed Diameter 0.33" Length 0.828" Installed Length 0.410" Flange Diameter 0.510" Thickness 0.038"

Another picture I found that shows this seat's upholstery condition a bit better (had trouble attaching to instant message, so just adding it here)

By the way, here's a photo of the bench seat I just took, which shows the color. I think they are two-tone taupe + black? Apologies for image quality being grainy (as it was dark out - and a part of the bench seat is also folded down on this quick pic.) The seats are in really amazing condition. I'd say "excellent" - the previous owner had them covered and protected. Since we're so close, it will be really easy to get together and you can see them in person.

Thanks for the info and relaying your thoughts, Windguy! I think you're right I'll need to remove the tracks and see what's going on underneath the tracks. For the time being, as a temporary measure to reduce water intrusion, I rolled up some pieces of gorilla tape, adhesive-side out, and rammed them into the holes that appeared to be drilled through the sheetmetal, but without any hardware. All the landing pad, tower, and crossbar/etc hardware that came mounted here appear to be "traditional" Yakima. Seems like it might be a heavier duty round profile bars. To be honest, I'm not sure we'll be using the rack much. If we can preserve it, in case we have future need for it, however, great. A bit hesitant to install a different track if it means drilling even more holes in the roof of this car. GBL - the track material sure seems to be extruded aluminum. It's also got a black finish of some sort. I think I read in whispbar's literature that their tracks use a black powder coat - which seems plausible for mine, based on what I've seen.

That's amazing how close we are, art0925! You have a private message! look forward to having a neighborhood transit connect seat swapping party. Lol! (Happy to find another transit connect in my neighborhood!)

Bump to this thread, because I'd also like to know what's involved to swap between 2nd row bench and buckets on the 2nd gen 2014 transit connect Wagon XLT LWB? I assumed it might be a bolt-in operation, but I guess assumptions can potentially get oneself in trouble. In my particular case, we're talking about a leather bench seat that I'd rather replace with buckets. If anyone near greater seattle area has leather buckets they would like to sell me or trade me for my leather bench seat (in very good condition), let me know!

I believe my rails are Yakima "Whispbar". Although it's still a mystery what these screws are actually threading into, maybe I should be thankful mine aren't mounted with pop-rivets , as called for in the installation instructions! http://www.whispbar.com.au/instructions/Q7