OLDSCHOOLFOOL

Changed the sensor and everything appears to be back to normal. Pretty much the easiest fix ever except that the sensor let go suddenly and I punched myself in the eye. The ABS light did not go off immediately as I would have expected but after about a few hundred feet all the lights went off. I guess it needed a signal to reset. Thanks @donridley for all your input.

AutoZone reading comes up with Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor faults. C0031-29 C0031-07 C0051-62 C0031-11 Proof will be in the pudding.

Thanks Don, that is what I will attempt tomorrow but I'm not sure the AutoZone will be able to read ABS codes. We'll see. Do you know of any threads or "builds" that get into the replacement in any kind of detail? My old man search skills are less than stellar. not really finding much. A trip to the dealership will involve dragging, kicking, screaming, cursing and perhaps violence......?

I appear to be having the same issue. It "seems" that I was able to get rid of the hill start assist unavailable message and the traction control light went off. It may not be permanent. The ABS light is on all the time now and disconnecting the battery should not make that go away. Suspect is the wheel sensor but nobody talks about how easily that may be changed. In the driveway. I don't know how old this thread is.

Steel wheels ended up looking like this. Was planning silver because I just did a set of white wheels on my Jeep. Regardless of color I just don't like the look much so I'm going to simply put the stock hubcaps back on and try to wear the tread down on these tires. Not worth the effort (to me) to bother painting them. These are not the 235/60R16 tires that I mentioned in the previous post. They are 245/50R16s and while I like the graphics on the sidewalls they are too wide for the front and not wide enough for the rear. Not my favorite.

I just recently discovered that I can fit 235/60R16s under the front end. With a calculated diameter of 27.1" I believe that is the tallest tire yet, not to mention the added width. No rubbing anywhere but the wheels have an offset of +38. Not sure yet if they'll rub on full lock with the stock wheel offset of +50 but the next Wheel Whore project will find out. Note that this throws the speedometer off by a good bit. Not a big concern to me, but still.

Been kinda wondering what the stock steelies would look like painted white. I hate the black and the stock hubcaps are only marginally better. Definitely can appreciate your ingenuity with the center caps and they look good. Not quite me though cause I like to expose my nuts. Since I now have some winter tires that I'm thinking of putting on the steelies, white just might be a good direction to go in.

I have to say I'm curious as to the reason why NOT? The wheel specs are identical but just a guess maybe the weight rating? I never had a bit of problem whatsoever.

I think it is a great idea. Not sure what the contour of the 2013 rear doors are. Mine are a kind of weird, rounded shape with projections that doesn't exactly help hinging a shelf there but with a little creativity just about anything is possible.

Been meaning to post this for a while. I used the rockwool in the doors and also added some in the quarter panels and pillars where I could. On the passenger side there wasn't access (without cutting metal) so I added a layer of foam board over the wheel well under the black plastic cover. Even though I STILL have not completely finished ALL of the rest of the insulation, I was able to "survive" a 13F night. Below 20F it is still a little chilly especially around the sliding doors and floor. Still very doable. With a small heat source it was quite comfy down to about 25F outside. HUGE difference in the road noise coming from the cargo area also.

I intend to reuse the panels, both for cost savings and I'm trying to keep heat in. One of the goals is to cover as much of the metal back there but not go too much overboard. I want it to look neat but utilitarian, not really that fancy if you will.

Not familiar with rockwool so I did a little reading and this looks like a very good solution. A bit more cost but it's not like I'm doing a huge area. Appreciate the suggestion.? Next up is how to remove (intact) the plastic film behind the panels. My thought is to try and take a single edge razor blade and slowly separate the film from the metal door. I keep reading about it being somewhat hard to get off without tearing it all to pieces. Not even sure if it's worth my effort but I assume it is there for vapor barrier.

After 4 years I'm finally starting to do something with the inside of 2016 cargo van. This thing is not really friendly to being insulated. Would like some opinions on insulating the rear and sliding doors. My first inclination is to shove some fiberglass insulation into the cavities behind the factory door panels panels but I got an uneasy feeling about collecting moisture back there. Any ideas?

I had these Focus wheels on mine too, they look really good. I gave them to my brother who adapted them up to a 1986 Ranger that he is dropping a 302 into.