Doc Hoy

As I was trying to explain, I reflected that a photo or two would be helpful. Lemme try to get a moment to take some and post them.

Some reaction...... Because I did not know how the tumbler housing is installed (by use of the lateral bolt coming in from the driver's side of the vehicle (U.S. driver's side...Sorry guys.) I failed to realize that I could have saved myself some aggravation. Here is why: When I carved out the backing grill I started from the center front on the grill. Once I got started and saw the orientation of the bolt, I should have opened a port from the side which would have allowed used of a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet, maybe with a universal joint adapter. A hole in the right place would have allowed me to go straight in from my right to my left as I viewed the front of the truck. As it was, my access hole restricted me to the use of an open end wrench. The opening only allowed a purchase of about 20 to 30 degrees on every turn of the wrench. I worked that bolt for a long time getting it out. Had I made the access hole on the side, the socket and ratchet would have had the bolt out in less than a minute.

The good feeling is slightly offset by being the only one on the web with two screws in his grill. ;o) Just joking 103. Thanks a lot for the positive feedback.

Got it open! First of all, thanks for all of the attention you all have given to this problem. Inspection of the lock mechanism from outside simply did not provide any clue as to the root of the problem. 1. To get a better look, I removed the plastic grill. This meant breaking the two top studs that hold the grill in place. It appears that at manufacture the grill is positioned properly and then a spring fastener is pressed on to each of the two top studs. They are pressed on and lock in place so there is no real easy way to get them off. There are actually six locating studs on the grill but only the top two have these spring fasteners on them. My 2011 is exactly the same way. It is as though the grill was designed in such a way that the four lower locating studs are at a location that you simply can't apply the spring fasteners. They appear to be for location only. 2. Once the grill was out I found that I needed to carve away the backup grill housing (or whatever it is called) around the tumbler housing because I still could not see the lock mechanism. The grill back is made of soft vinyl so I just carved it out with the side of a drill bit in a drill. This gave me access to the lateral bolt (8 mm) which holds the tumbler housing in place. I removed that bolt (It would only turn about 30 degrees before I had to re-position the wrench and it is about an inch and a half long, so it took about 15 minutes of turning.) allowing the tumbler housing to move ever so slightly. When I did that I immediately felt the tumbler assembly catch in the "X" shaped fitting in the lock/latch. I tried the key right away and the hood opened perfectly. 3. Once the hood was open I saw exactly what the original problem was. The lock/latch assembly is pushed back about 1/4 inch and is bent. It is as though the tumbler house had been hit very hard pushing the lock/latch back toward the cross member of the front clip. There is no obvious damage to the tumbler as would be expected if it had been struck. There is no damage to the grill. I would assume that the previous owner in trying to open the hood pushed on the key too hard but that person would have to put an awful lot of force on the key to bend the lock/latch out of shape as it is. More force than the key or tumbler housing would likely stand. There is no obvious damage to either of the keys. 4. Faced with having to reinstall the grill with broken locating studs, I simply drilled two holes in the grill and used some stainless steel screws to hold it in place using the same locating holes as were originally used before the studs were broken off. I know a lot more about this hood lock/latch than I did two hours ago, but I doubt it will do me much good. I'll prolly replace the mechanism with a new one to avoid potential problems because the existing lock/latch is bent.

Tried the air compressor to no avail. Something in there is jammed. Ford wants a hundred dollar diagnostic fee. I am thinking about drilling it out myself and then fitting the hood with hood pins.

I do have a fine nozzle for the air compressor. I'll give it a try.

Oh... and thanks for the answers to my questions.

BTW, I have read nearly every article on the internet that deals with these latches and this particular problem and none of them are detailed enough to work from. Photos would be good but the ones I have seen are too dark, too light or out of focus.

Unfortunately, it is not. The manager of the lot where I bought the truck told me he would get it working. But that was three weeks ago and I hate to bother him. In addition it is 18 miles away and my time is pretty precious. Still, if he remembers the commitment he made to me my guess is that this is my optimal option.

Okay....So I am stumped by this hood latch business. I was given two keys with this truck. Both of them work in every place they are supposed to in this truck. In fact, the key for my 2011 works in this truck too. Every place a key goes, all three keys work. EXCEPT FOR THE FRIGGIN HOOD WHERE NONE OF THE KEYS WORK! In the interest of a reminder, all of the keys act like they are the wrong key. None of them will turn either CCW or CW. They stop solid no mater how far into the lock I push them. I am fairly certain the key is going all of the way in. It bottoms out before the head comes into contact with the grill. I have squirted every kind of schmutz I can think of into the tumblers and the behavior of the key is precisely the same. Some of the folks on the internet say that it is possible to drill out the key lock tumblers in the hood latch and then open it with a screw driver. I would do this but I would want to ensure a positive latching of the hood. Q: Has anyone tried drilling out the lock? I would take it to Ford but when you go in there and look at the service writer, the dollar signs go around in his eyes like the wheels of a slot machine. Q: Has anyone had a latch replaced and if so, what did it run? I looped a bent rod under the hood and grabbed the latch, trying to pull it, but apparently the key lock is holding it in place. Won't move. Q: is there a way to reach in and unlatch the hood past the lock mechanism?

Good for you. Welcome to the group. Much good info here. I was born and raised in southeastern PA. Pottstown. Left in 69 to join the Nav. Never went back except for visits to relatives and friends.

Yes....Welcome. Good place o come.

Thanks GBL.... What about running a wider tire? Will it fit?

It is two years since the last post in this topic and my fear is that I am resurrecting a discussion which was put to rest long ago. I hope that is not the case. I have two white TCs one from 2011 and the other from 2012. I bought both used. The 2011 needed wheel bearings when I bought it. The 2012 is quiet now, but I anticipate it will need bearings within a year. I have read much about the nature of the failure of these bearings. I have read three failure sources and every one of them makes some sense: 1. Insufficient lubricant in bearings or a fault in the application of lubricant during the manufacturing process. (Only partially likely since replacement bearings apparently last no longer than OEM) 2. Water induced failure. (Only partially likely since the Ford Focus does not seem to suffer from the same weakness.) 3. Bearings too light for the load. (Makes sense) Parenthetically, I am thinking about getting a pair of knuckles with new bearings already pressed in to use as spares. I can swap out the knuckles in my garage but I don't have a press to put the bearings in. I would only do that if I could get them cheap. But here is a thought: The bearing is the first solid link between the road and the chassis. That means that bumps, ruts, and roughness in the road is first absorbed by the tires and wheels and then by the wheel bearing. The design of the suspension borrowed from the Focus including to a large extent the wheel and tire size yet the TC weighs 400 to 600 pounds more. If the mass of everything between the bearing and the road were increased, then that mass would resist movement and would absorb more of the roughness of the road. By the time the forces were applied to the wheel bearing, they would be attenuated by the additional absorption of the wheel and tire. This puts less stress on the bearing and might increase the life of the bearings. My thought is to increase the mass of the wheel and tire by moving to a slightly larger wheel and tire. I am thinking of a tire which is not taller but just wider than the OEM. Mine are 205s and I am thinking of going to a 225. I would also move to an inexpensive chromed steel wheel what would replace the OEM wheel and wheel cover. The slightly wider tire might also improve handling of the van. So....Two questions: 1. Does my logic make sense? (I am a career Navy electronic technician and officer and a retired university professor of electrical engineering. I am not dumb but I am no physicist) 2. On the 2010-2013 TC, how wide can you make the tires without having them interfere with other components under the truck...(Wheel wells, frame, and other "stuff")?

Welcome to the group, Packa. Congrats on the replacement van. Sorry about the mishap with the silver van and hope no one was hurt. I have two older (2011 and 2012) TCs which I use for business and hauling only. I never once thought of either of them as enhancable with ground effects but that new one of your does look nice. Parenthetically, the photos of the silver van after the wreck is a clear indication of the work of the crumple zones in modern vehicles. Van totaled but the windshield is still intact. No apparent encroachment of the driver/passenger compartment. Anyway, welcome, thanks and see ya round.

Key will not move either right or left. Tumblers frozen in place would produce the symptoms I am seeing. I tried PB Blaster on it to no avail. I saw the hood in the open position when the mechanic was working on the door alarm, so I know it will open. It just isn't acting the way I expect it to. I have pushed down and pulled up on the hood to make sure there was no load on the latch. No workee. The dealer told me he would look at it. I was just trying to avoid the 18 mile drive if there is an easy fix. I don't like the idea of using the key to open the hood. Maybe if I lived in Turkey (Which is actually pretty darned nice.) it would make more sense. If there were an easy way to modify the latch so that it works with a lever or cable, I would do it. I must hasten to add, that my schedule has not permitted much time all at once to work on this problem. I can only take a few moments to fiddle with it before I have to move on to the next crisis. I'll figure it out but just haven't had the time to really dig into it. The way PB Blaster works, the lock may be like new when I get home (I am in Florida with family) because the PB Blaster has had the opportunity to sink in and do its work.

Just purchased 2012 TC and found that the hood latch does not open with the key. The situation is that the key goes into the socket but will not turn either right or left. I have douched it down with PB Blaster. I have wiggled the key. Tried it at various depths of insertion and I simply can not get the key to work, (I got two keys with the truck and both work in the ignition, and all of the doors plus the gas cap cover.) I don't want to try to turn the key too hard for fear of breaking it off. I am about convinced that the latch lock needs to be replaced. Is there a way to open the hood without the key? Better yet is there a way to circumvent the key latch (Which in my opinion is a completely stupid idea) and replace it with a conventional latch?

Just purchased 2012 TC and found that the hood latch does not open with the key. The situation is that the key goes into the socket but will not turn either right or left. I have douched it down with PB Blaster. I have wiggled the key. Tried it at various depths of insertion and I simply can not get the key to work, (I got two keys with the truck and both work in the ignition, and all of the doors plus the gas cap cover.) I don't want to try to turn the key too hard for fear of breaking it off. I am about convinced that the latch lock needs to be replaced. Is there a way to open the hood without the key? Better yet is there a way to circumvent the key latch (Which in my opinion is a completely stupid idea) and replace it with a conventional latch?

Yep.....big pleasure.

Got my truck back from the dealer fixed. Didn't charge me anything which was their commitment to me. Told me that at assembly, a body screw went through a wire harness. Didn't show me which one or where it was apart from telling me it was at the body cowl. Problem is completely solved. You may recall that I also had tire pressure alert on the dash. That has straightened itself out on its own.

okay....I'll give that a try The offending truck is atthe dealer but I am going out right now to look at the 2011 to see what is involved

Just bought a 2012 TC (my second TC) and it has an intermittent electrical (I assume) problem. Even though the doors are closed, I get an intermittent alert on the dash indicating one of the doors is open (Red icon and audible alarm). All of the plunger switches seem to be working. Doors are tight. Alert occurs intermittently as often as every three seconds. Seems to steady out when the truck is rolling on a highway. Truck is back at the dealership now and the mechanic is likely stumped. I have four alternatives: 1. Accept the truck the way it is an let the alerts drive me crazy. 2. Have the alert disabled (I think I know when the doors are open.) 3. Turn the truck back to the dealer and get my money back. (I don't want to do this because I got a great deal on it. Next closest deal was twice the money.) 4. Let the mechanic fiddle with the truck which I am reluctant to do since I need it or let the dealer pay for an auto electrical expert fiddle with it, which I think they w\ill be reluctant to do since there was very little margin on the deal.) So the questions: Has anyone seen this problem and is there a common fix? Is there an easy way to disable the "door ajar" alert?

Hi. I am new here too but I have already received what I consider to be some sound opinions. Some valuable links

This post will not add anything of substance to the discussion. But I had a left wheel bearing replaced in my 2011 at 160k Miles. I bought it used with a bearing making noise. $800 to replace the bearing. Right hand side is the next candidate. It is distressing to read about the high frequency of wheel bearing failure on these trucks. Mine is a company truck and I depend on it for income.

I would say that I need to pay more attention to what I am doing....But in my defense I am a pretty careful (although quite ....... "enthusiastic") driver. That is especially true when I am driving the TCs since I seem to have convinced myself that there are two blind spots. I have in fifty years of driving had exactly one at-fault accident about 12 years ago. It happened just this morning that a driver passed me on the left hand side and my reaction was that he came out of nowhere. (I was driving the newer TC without the cameras). I have my mirrors set pretty much the same as yours and I simply did not see this guy. It was a simple move with no danger of collision. He was just overtaking and I was remaining in my lane but if I had been trying the change into his lane I would have needed to be specifically observant to see him. As regards the Euro mirrors, they appear to be pretty nice. Didn't know they exist.