Fifty150

How mechanical are you? It can be done. Remove the front bumper, grille, and fascia. You will see the actual steel bumper bar. You will probably mount your aftermarket cooler there. It will be right in the front where you get better airflow. I would tap into the return line, where fluid returns to the sump. My reasoning is that I want the fluid to pass through the cooler bypass valve, flow past the OEM heat exchanger, then to an auxiliary cooler. That should be under the air box and intake hose, near the vent port on top of the transmission. Then it's a matter of cutting and flaring the OEM line, and connecting it to the auxiliary cooler. Based on previous experience installing auxiliary coolers, I prefer to install coolers with electric fans. A little bit more work. But it makes a huge difference.

At cheap? I don't know. But if all else fails, use one of those machines that are in 7Eleven and grocery stores. No. The machine won't be able to do it right then and there. But the company will refer the locksmith, who can do that work. I think that every modern auto has some sort of electronics in the keys. I have a 2007 pick up truck, and even that key had to be programmed. I don't think any modern cars are sold with basic keys without some sort of electronic pairing to the vehicle. Not like the old days where cars actually had "master keys". When I was a kid, Hondas & Toyotas were easily stolen if you got ahold of a "master key".

Not everybody has 1 of those. We will need to find a work-around. But otherwise, nice work. Thanks for the photos and write-up. Speaking only for myself, your contribution is much appreciated.

When you read through the older threads, you will find a lot of good information is already posted. Welcome

Awesome. 2019 w/ 100 miles. Never titled? It probably won't happen to you. On one of our fleet deliveries, we got a brand new Ford with about 5 miles. Yes, it was a few model years old, so the price was significantly lowered. By sheer coincidence, my vehicle was up next and they assigned it to me. I drove it about a year without even thinking about not having plates on it. A year passes, no plates, and wondering if the registration expired.......I'm such an idiot. Then I brought it up. We ran the VIN on the Highway Patrol's computer, and the VIN DID NOT EXIST. Literally "VIN NOT ON FILE". The VIN on the dash, matched the engine block, and frame. All legit. Truck came from Ford. It wasn't a counterfeit truck or VIN plate. DMV had no record of the VIN. All that we had was the Bill of Lading from when the fleet order was delivered, showing that VIN delivered to us. Long story, short; we eventually got it straightened out.

You're more than welcome. Glad I could help out. That's why we are on these forums. Exchanging information. If you cancel your dealership appointment, and decide to do it yourself, maybe you can help the next guy with a few photos and a write-up.

Over $1,000.00 United States of America. The light bar portion protrudes out the farthest, and is at just the right height for being damaged. Someone getting in or out of a parking space will knock it off.

For someone with a more liberal budget:

You haven't paid them for anything yet. You don't have to let the dealer charge you for whatever parts and labor. Just cancel it. Order the part online. Do it yourself. I don't know. You should get the same results with the search on your computer.

Maybe you can just air it out with a box fan.

The videos I found on youtube won't help much. On your van, you will need to pull away the weather seal strip, and remove the headliner. The part is available from dealers on the InterWeb.

High Five

Falsa blanket. Nice touch.

I like the curtains. Keep up the good work.

May as well recommend a cheap futon from Ikea.