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I ran a test on this for an extended time with an accurate meter directly on the battery terminals. The TC appears to be setup for Ford's "silver calcium" battery, used as standard equipment in Europe from Ford. It's a slightly different battery formula than is commonly used in US. It's supposed to last longer and resist sulfation, but requires a slightly higher system voltage. As a result, most Ford Europe vehicles are setup with 14.8V nominal alternator outputs, vs the more typical US domestic 14.4. As a matter of fact, I just removed the original battery and replaced it. The original battery had a black Motorcraft BXT-96R sticker on it, but there was clearly another sticker underneath, so I peeled it up and the actual original battery was a made in Germany Ford Silver Calcium T6 (DIN standard size T6). The slightly higher system voltage probably isn't a big deal, but you may not get as much life out of a standard lead-acid battery running in this electrical system. Wouldn't worry over it too much. Not sure if Ford has taken this into account with their now specified replacement battery, a Motorcraft 40R. It's not expensive, about the same as any other battery on the market. The 1.6L Ecoboost option has a battery charge regulator to reduce load on the engine. Mine is a 2.5L, and there's no additional regulator on the battery. The 1.6L will show different voltage on the battery than the alternator output.

LOL, I wouldn't put it past them. But 96R is a standard format car battery under US numbering system, and T6 is a standard DIN battery size in Europe (equivalent to US group 91 battery). Ford says to use their 40R battery, which isn't expensive and is made in Germany - likely a silver-calcium battery. I did a little checking with a voltmeter today, and the electrical system is definitely set up from the factory for charging Ford's (european) Silver Calcium batteries. It runs at about 14.8 - 14.9 volts, just a little bit higher voltage than ideal for flooded cell (wet) or AGM batteries sold in the US. They're standard issue all over Europe in Ford products, but not at all common in the US. Exide's calcium-tin battery is probably quite happy at this voltage. File it under useless data.

No I just put a T6 in it, just like what came out of it.

However, a T6 will fit easily with no bending of metal and has more CCA (though not really necessary), and it is what Ford put in it, then slapped a group 96R sticker on top of. (weird).

I hope it is OK to chime in an old thread, as I just went through this on my TC, a 2015. I got a MTP48/H6 from Interstate, and found it too tall to fit, even though it is in their application book. The battery was too talk to fit the hold down bracket, as the top of the group 48 battery is about 9/16" too tall. I took the battery (OEM motorcraft original) to Autozone, which had "BXT-96R" on a sticker on it. But on the counter, it was much longer than the 96R battery. We found that it was a dead on match for a DIN size T6 (in fact, perfectly identical in even the molding marks). I could see another sticker under the black Motorcraft label, so I peeled it up. Underneath, was a blue Ford label with size T6, made in Germany, "Ford Silver Calcium". T6 is identical to US size 91 as well. The Silver Calcium brand is sort of telling, as Ford does these in Europe. The Silver-Calcium formula battery uses a slightly higher charging voltage (14.8 vs. 14.4), and is supposed to last longer. I dunno, mine made it about 5.5 years, hadn't quite failed yet, but was starting to show signs of weakness. If the car was set up for 14.8V charging from the factory, it may have some bearing on the battery life if different formula batteries are used.

Thanks for the tip but two problems here. First there are no Sam's Clubs in my area! The other is that I tried a Group 48/H6 size battery, and they're too tall to fit mine. Unless that Duracell is not in compliance with the dimensions of a group 48/H6 battery, it wouldn't fit any better than the Interstate MTP48/H6 that I did try. The top of the battery was as tall as the screws on the hold down clamps. Here's a link with all the standard battery dimensions: https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html The tallest battery that correctly fits in my vehicle is 175mm, the group 48 is 192 tall, so no go. It had a T6 (european DIN) in it and that's the biggest that fits in all dimensions. That's the same as a US 91. Ford says it takes a 40R battery.

I have a 2015 TC Passenger XLT long wheel base, 2.5L, starting to get the "signs" of a weakening battery as the weather started getting cold. Changed the battery today, which turned into 10x more trouble than it should have been. Went by the Interstate distributor, they looked it up and I bought a carry out battery, an MTP48. Guess what? Doesn't fit! Literally, a full half inch too tall to go under the hold down bracket. I went looking through several x-refs on line and got different fitments from all of them. The original Motorcraft battery label said, "BXT96R" so went to get a group 96R battery, which are hard to find. Compared mine with it on the counter and the guy says, "that isn't a 96R", which is much smaller, and tried a couple and voila, it's a European T6. There was another label under the Motorcraft label, so I peeled it up, and there was a "Made in Germany T6 Ford" label underneath. The Duralast Gold was the identical battery, right down to the handles and the same exact case molding and made in Germany. Go figure. Getting the freaking battery rear cover in turned into an enormous hassle. I got the battery out easy enough, finding a video online. Have to remove the air cleaner, take the cable retainers out and remove the front wall of the battery box. The rear cover of the box snaps off, with a lot of trouble. Got the right size battery in, and the rear upper box cover turned into a huge hassle. Not enough room to clear the brake master cylinder and get the snaps engage. Wound up taking the bracket off and the battery out, snapping the cover into place and easing the battery in, connected the negative cable as I went. (yeah, I know, it goes on last for safety - but ain't possible). Put it all back together, smooth starting and didn't lose any settings or anything else, despite having the battery out for a couple of hours.

Rate this one under harder than it should be, but fairly easy. The filter can be washed. It is just urethane foam, not a paper element. Unless it is torn or damaged, just wash it with dish soap and warm water. Materials and tools: Torx T-20 screwdriver. Motorcraft FP75 filter element* (you can definitely wash these instead of replacing, unless it is damaged) 1. Move driver seat full forward and jack up the seat to the highest level, set the seat back forward. 2. Remove the T-20 screw from the filter housing. 3. The filter housing is supposed to rotate about 20 degrees CCW to come out. However, there are 3 clips around it. Poke your finger down the slot and release the claw inside by pushing it outward. There's one just right of the screw, and one at the very front and one at the driver's door side. I couldn't reach the one on the door side. But by releasing the front one and the one near the screw, I was able to convince it to rotate. 4. Remove the filter housing by wiggling it clear of the seat and under seat air duct. 5. There are three clips that you press gently to release the inner filter housing cage. 6. Replace or wash the filter element and dry it. 7. Install the filter on the inner cage, engaging the bottom edge of the filter in the slot around the bottom of the inner cage. 8. Line up the inner filter cage and snap it back into the filter housing. 9. Line up the filter housing on the blower motor and rotate it 20 degrees to snap it into place. 10. Install the retaining screw.

On the 2015 (and 2014) TC, you have to pull the hinge pins to drop the glove box. They're not hard. Many cars have the glove box that you can release by squeezing the sides. The TC cabin air filter is a bit harder to service.

I put up a step-by-step in the climate controls forum for my 2015. (same as the 2015). http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4704-how-to-change-the-2015-cabin-air-filter/

Wow, that's quite a thread on the transmission. I have to admit, I tried to scan all 89 posts and still can't figure out how to check the transmission fluid level. On the upside, I did check absolutely everything for any signs of a leak. At 20K miles, I'm happy to report that there's not a trace of any kind of fluid, anywhere on the engine or transmission. I did reach up around the half shafts and stuff and they're bone dry. The whole engine is shiny, clean and dry on the bottom side as well as the top. Is there a step by step to check it? I had presumed it was one of those deals where you have to remove a plug and see if any dribbles out or not. What's the correct procedure?

I'm still under warranty. I wonder if I should let the dealer tackle it? They'll just put two new ones in with the double-sided tape.

I'd love to know how. I don't have the service literature and there's doodly all in the owner's manual.

Probably trivial for most of you, but here's a step-by-step from changing the oil on my 2015 TC Wagon LWB XLT with 2.5L engine. I found Rino Ramps (plastic drive on ramps for low-profile cars) to work just fine. I back into the driveway, then down onto the ramps. The combined slope gives the van a slightly nose high but nearly level position for oil change. I found adequate room underneath on the ramps to do the oil change. 1. Materials needed: 6 qts (5.7 needed) 5w-20 oil and FL910S filter. 15-MM closed end wrench or socket, oil filter wrench, torx t-27 bit. 2. Put vehicle on ramps, apply brakes and chock wheels and raise the hood. 3. The bottom shield is held on by 6 T-27 screws and 2 push-pins. 4. Pop the push pins on the left and right side, but do not remove them yet. 5. Remove the 3 screws along the back of the cover, then the three screws along the front. 6. Carefully tug on the sides with the push pins to get the cover loose, then pull the cover down and forward a few inches. There are two places where it hooks the vehicle frame and pulling forward clears these. Set cover aside. 7. Place suitable draining container under the sump drain, located in the center rear side of the sump. 5w-20 is pretty thin stuff, so it will rooster tail out pretty good. Place your target accordingly. 8. Remove the 15mm drain plug with a socket or closed end wrench. Drain oil. It may go a bit faster if you open the oil fill cap. 9. The filter is easy to reach in the front of the engine. However, it will drain a LOT of oil when you take it off. Make sure your drain is in place before you take it off. Loosen the filter, let it run off, then take it off. There's a lot of oil in the passages that will drain after the filter is off. 10. Install the 15mm drain plug and tighten accordingly. 11. Lubricate the filter with clean engine oil. Wipe the flange surface clean and be sure no remaining gasket is stuck to it. Install and tighten filter 3/4 turn after it contacts the flange. 12. Fill with oil and pressure test. 13. Install bottom cover by sliding onto hooks and inserting the press pins then the 6 screws. I refilled with a smidge more than 5.5 quarts of oil and it was pretty much spot on. Manual says 5.7qts with filter change. So, thats about right. This one rates as "easy" with the only complication being the bottom cover. The rear screws are hard to reach.

I was in Vegas last weekend. I've never seen so many TC Wagons. Lots of taxi versions, and a ton that had to be rentals on the strip. It was kind of funny, I hardly see them here in Silicon Valley. I noticed that all the taxi versions lack the strips. About 1/2 the normal (presumed rent-a-cars) had one or both strips missing. There's a noticeable gap, but I don't think most people would notice it. I don't think they serve any real purpose. I'm thinking to leave them off. Even if glued securely, they seem really susceptible to damage and wear.