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Just did this on my 14 ecoboost. Bought ebay leather wheel with all the controls. (including the bluetooth/audio stuff I don't have the head unit for) Wheel swap was easy. Unhook airbag clips using the video above. Unclip harnesses. The two airbag harnesses are double-retained with little plastic clips, careful. Set airbag aside. Remove single bolt holding the wheel. It has a single drop of blue threadlocker on it, so it takes a bit of force to break it free, then it comes out easily. Carefully note which way you have the wheel turned. A small yank released mine, no puller needed. There are 2 plastic pins that index with the wheel, these are likely for stability control wheel position sensors. The clockspring will spin freely with the wheel removed - don't spin it, you'll lose your place. Place new wheel on center pin. Plastic wheel position pins should fit right into the holes. Put a dab of blue threadlock on center bolt. Reinstall bolt. I torqued mine to 29ft/lbs - based on a number I found on my phone for a different ford - I don't even remember which one. Maybe a Fiesta. Tried to program with a cheap wifi obd2 reader using the instructions on page2 (laptop was plugged into ethernet for the download). It went all the way through, and failed on the write. Multiple times. Ordered OBDLink SX USB on amazon, carefully using the OBDLink store. Drove another 1500 miles without cruise. Grr. Obdlink sx (USB) arrived at the office while we were 200 miles away. Co-worker that was helping me went by the office to get the new OBDLINK. He sent me these photos.

If you know the width and the offset, you can calculate the backspace fairly accurately. Online info for the stock wheels on my 2015 show 6.5Jx16 ET50, which calculates out to 5.2185" backspace. But the website shows backspace of 133mm (5.2362 inches), web link here. Slightly under two-hundredths of a difference. Positive offset pulls the wheel in, negative offset pushes it out of the fender. You're moving them out 5mm/0.2" (+50 vs +45), but the wheels are also a full inch wider overall than stock, so the inside edge will be about 0.3" inward of stock (half the difference in wheel width, minus the 0.2" change in offset going outward). I think you'll find that you'll be going in a slightly straighter line with those wheels and the reduced steering angle. Then it's up to you, Old School, to decide if the reduced angle is acceptable or if you want to try some thin spacers (quarter-inch would nearly bring the inside wheel edge back to stock location) or whatever. Problem there is that the wheels would then be sticking a full inch out from stock location, not accounting for any tire width difference added on.