2016 Ford Transit Connect Wagon XLT LWB driver side rear door has stopped responding

[grindel]

2016 Ford Transit Connect Wagon XLT LWB

So the wife tried to roll down the window with something suction cupped to the window and it really hasn't been the same since so maybe the electronics in there have had a hot lunch or two. A couple of weeks ago the door stopped working altogether. It does not lock, it does not roll down the window, it always assumes the door is ajar. I checked the fuses in the rear of the vehicle and the fuse for the "Door control unit rear left" is ok and has power. I inspected the wiring in the track that goes to the door and superficially there didn't seem to be anything wrong. I unplugged and plugged this harness in. I pulled the fuse to see if this would stop the door ajar issue, it did not. The door ajar issue causes battery drain as it fails to shut off the parking lights under certain circumstances or the interior lights if those get turned on. I can't find any exploded views of the door or schematics to help troubleshoot. I'm sure as heck not going to take it into the dealer while we are under quarantine unless I absolutely have to. If I remember correctly there are 6 wires in this connector, I assume they are power, ground, CAN, and speaker but who knows for sure. There is a non-zero chance that some critter has eaten a section of harness somewhere inaccessible, I will probe what I assume are the power wires and maybe stick an o-scope on the CAN wires maybe and hopefully not blow anything up.  Thinking about it, none of the wires were shielded, so maybe I have interpreted that incorrectly to think there is a CAN network running to the door. I asked the ford dealer where the "door control unit" was that is related to the fuse, they said, "in the door." I really wish I had a schematic snippet.  I tried popping open the plastic on the door, but I peeked under the skirts there and it seemed like there was foam insulation glued on that I would have to cut through to explore further so I lost my nerve there too.

Any advice on next steps would be great. Are there any parts sites that have good exploded views. Even googling "Door Control Unit" for transit connect doesn't really come up with much.

 

Thanks much,
 

 

 

[Don Ridley]

You need to check the "rear door module". Attached is the electrical connection diagram.

 

If the module is damaged you can buy a used one like this (this is for the right side):

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-2017-FORD-TRANSIT-CONNECT-REAR-RIGHT-PASSENGER-SIDE-DOOR-CONTROL-MODULE-OEM/202591178986?epid=22024818468&hash=item2f2b6010ea:g:WvYAAOSwH6lcXNPX

 

Get the correct part number (F1ET...) off your module and do a Google search. I don't know if the modules are plug-n-play. If you have to upload the module configuration you will need to use Forscan. Forscan can also read the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and it may tell you the point of failure. There is a learning curve with Forscan (to make programming changes) but you can easily use it (PC or phone app) to read status codes.

 

Removing the door panel is not too difficult. Use plastic removal tools to keep from breaking the tabs. The Styrofoam vapor barrier is removed by pulling on the edge until the black butyl rubber spreads into a thin film. Cut the butyl rubber with a razor blade as you continue to gently pull the vapor barrier off the door. Re-install by simply pressing the two lines of butyl rubber back together. DO NOT cut the vapor barrier. 

 

https://forscan.org/

 

read door module_left.pdf

[grindel]

Don,

 

Thanks for the excellent info!  I think I'll start by taking out the seat so I have room to work when I get the door panel off.  I am super slow when it comes to interior panel parts that tend to be breakable, I am not the gentle- ist of home gamer mechanics.  I tested power and ground at connector C710 and the controller should have power/ground.  Do you have any schematic snippets for the remaining C710 connector circuits I just want to eliminate damage on the chassis side since it is easy to check, for most CAN interfaces, I think it should be 60 ohm resistance, so I can pull off the batt lug and check that if a couple of those wires are, in fact, CAN.   I downloaded Forscan this seems to be super interesting.  Do you have any comment on the dangers of, say, resetting the Body Controller?  There is a big warning that pops up when you want to.

These errors pop up when I run the scan 

===BdyCM DTC B110A:77-2C===
Code: B110A - Rear door driver side central locking motor

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Commanded Position Not Reachable

Status: 
 - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module
===END BdyCM===

===BdyCM DTC B110B:77-28===
Code: B110B - Rear door passenger side central locking motor

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Commanded Position Not Reachable

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

I will troubleshoot the passenger side rear door to see if this locks when requested. 

 

Thanks again,

 

Nick

[Don Ridley]

Here's the door module communication connections. The rear door module communicates on a LIN bus, not CAN bus.

 

The DTCs seem to show the door locks did not respond to a "lock" command. The DTCs are not time stamped so it could have occurred at any time. Some will eventually disappear. Clear it and see if it returns.

 

You can safely reset the BCM with Forscan. But this never seems to fix anything. Do NOT do any relearn functions.

 

If the window does not respond the local switch or the master driver's door switch, I think the door module is bad. You can measure the voltage change from the local switch.

 

 

window_sw_module comm.pdf

[DonShockley]

I had to do some exploring on my 2015 after my driver's side rear door latch failed even after the recall was "completed". Turned out the parts for the recall were never replaced so I did a lot of photos documenting the fact back in 2018 just in case I had to prove the earlier work was never done. I thought to get detailed removal photos on the front door panels but not the back. So I went out and refreshed my memory and took a couple new pix for the fastener locations that I remembered. But be advised I may have forgotten something.

 

There are two T20 screws in holes on the edge of the trim. One at the front bottom corner and the other at the middle of the rear edge near the child safety locks, The rest of the fasteners are just white push-in plastic pins. A firm steady pull gets them out of their holes. They have a flat head that goes into slots in the plastic trim panel and angled sides press fit into holes in the metal of the door itself. As you pull, sometimes they come off the metal hole side (intended) and sometimes out of the plastic panel side (not intended). Don't worry, they can be put back in the slot after you get it out of the door. The red arrows are what I recall for the pin locations. There is a simple lever to (I forget, push down I think but might need to lift slightly) to get the electric connector off the window switch. It's the red and black one hanging in the photo. There is a photo of the front door panel with all the white push pins attached, I don't have a photo of the rear door panel with pins attached. But you can see how they fit on. And finally, there's a photo showing the rubber mentioned earlier around the edge of the foam seal panel.

 

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by DonShockley
Missed a pin arrow, added stars for screw spots

[DavidR]

Having some similar issues as well.

 

Thanks in advance for any input.  Greatly appreciated!

What a nightmare Uhgg.

 

2014 Ford Transit Connect Passanger XLT Sliding Rear Door Issues. 

I'll try not to be too long winded yet hopefully leaving enough details for suggestions.

• Initially rear driver side- sliding outside door latch- not working, inside latch did work for opening the door.
• Child safety lock on the same door was engaged while door was open accidentally, door will now not open either inside or outside. (Thanks Bro! LOL) 
•  We took off both inside sliding door panels to get a closer look. No remedy as of yet.
• We disengaged the child safety lock mechanism (Blue fiberglass/plastic type piece) on the passenger side, outside still works fine however inside will not open. We did this so the child safety lock would not engage accidentally again. We were able to to this only because the door was open.
• The actuators all seem to relay and be working just fine. 

 

***The child safety lock on these doors located on the back of the sliding door which is locked on the rear drivers side.  Does not seem to be a way to get to it easily.  Any thoughts on how to open?

Any other input or advise?  Thanks again!