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2014 Ford Transit Connect Titanium Audio Upgrade

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I am going to upgrade my sound system soon. Keeping the factory stereo. I am looking for some feedback from people that know better. 


  • line out converter or amp with speaker level inputs? 
  • Crutchfield says a lot of 6.5 speakers will not fit - is that accurate? 
  • 5 channel amp or mono and 4 channel? 

Looking forward to hearing from the community. 



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Welcome to the forum.


I kept the stock head unit and installed an amp w/DSP and some nice speakers. 6.5" speakers will fit but you have to cut the mounting ring off of the stock speakers.


Amp: Audiocontrol d4.80

Speakers: Morel Hybrid

Sub: Bazooka tube


The d4.80 is great for aftermarket upgrades using the stock head unit. It handles line input signals and the DSP removes any factory adjustments to the audio signal so you can start with a flat response. If you never had a DSP you will wonder how you ever listened to music without one.


My initial speaker upgrade. These were replaced by the Morels:

Power for the amp:



Here is info on removing the door panels.

There are other posts about speaker installs and complete audio system upgrades you should check out. Good luck with your project.

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I also upgraded my audio system using the factory radio and Sync 3.


I added a AudioControl DQ-61 factory integration processor in the little cubby under the passenger seat, it fit perfectly. It will interface with the high level speaker outputs of the factory radio and convert it into low level outputs for amplifiers. And lots of features.




I have a cargo van, so only a 2 + tweeter system and used a Rockford Fosgate P500X2 power amplifier - 150 watts per channel into 4 ohm speakers You may need a 4 or 5 channel amp depending on your setup.




I decided on powered subwoofers, and used JBL BassPro under the seat subs. I have (2), one under each front seat. If you are interested in heavy bass (rap, boom boom etc) these are not the subs for you. The are decent down to 35hz, but nothing below that and the 8" subs don't move a lot of air. But for most rock, and anything else music related, they work fine. I found these on the JBL refurbished site for $75.00 less than normal list price, each.




Front door and tweeter speakers I used HERTZ HSK-165.4 6.5" 250W COMPONENT SPEAKERS NEODYMIUM TWEETERS & CROSSOVERS, speakers in the factory locations. Some modifications were needed to fit the tweeters, they are larger than the factory tweeters, but I got them to fit in the A-pillars.


Great sound from these, very accurate and sweet. My goal was a clean system with punch, and these delivered. Hertz has changed their lineup since then (early 2017).




I ran 6 gauge wire from the battery, positive and negative; there is a empty fuse location in the high powered junction box (forward of the battery) and added a 100 amp MIDI fuse where the diesel glow plug location would be, and connected the ground to the bolt where the battery ground bolt is connected to the body. Everything is nice and tidy. I purchased 6 gauge lugs and a cool lug crimping tool to get that done, but worked great.


I added a fuse block under the driver seat, really nice (overkill) Blue Sea Safety hub 100 fuse block, waterproof, that feeds the amp, both subs, and the processor.  Many hours of wiring and soldering, you will need a good wiring diagram. I daisy chained into the factory harness behind the lower center trim (below the shifter) out from the radio and back from the amp into the factory wiring to the speakers using Audioquest speaker cable.






Finally, I did a bunch of sound insulation, using a product called B-Quiet, similar to Dynamat but less cost. I had the entire interior out except the dash, insulated the floors, doors, A-pillars, B-pillars and the complete roof above the headliner. It was a lot of work but the noise floor is much lower, quieter now, makes your sound system sound better, Bluetooth voice activation work better, and much nicer driving experience even with the audio system off.  I'm happy I did it.




Last but not least was tuning, getting the gains set right (I had access to a PicoScope, frankly a scope is the very best way to go) then  adjusting the crossovers, sub levels, using a real time analyzer for EQ, man it goes on and on, depending on how finicky you are. I also find significant differences in source change, for example FM, XM, CD, USB all sound different. FM and XM boost the bass, so if you dial it in on CD or USB and it sounds great, it will be too boomy on FM or XM.


And that's how I did it. It took a couple of weeks, working slowly, no rush in the evenings and weekends. It was a long road, but I'm happy with it, and the great thing is you can look into the vehicle and nothing looks different from stock and it sounds tits. And that's that.


Good luck!











Edited by zalienz

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Don & Zal,


Thank you! Very informative. 


I made the first part of my order. I went with the LC7I for my converter. The Focal brand speakers were on sale so I decided to give them a try - also bought the 4 ch Focal amp because it was recommended by the rep. ( Wish I knew you like Morel - I looked at those). So, plan is to use what y'all shared and get the wires, door speakers and amp installed.


I went with a two channel amp wiring kit so I only have to run wires once. I am not sure how that will work with the high powered junction box. I am in new territory, but I like it. 


I am going to spend some more time looking at your posts and planning. I think Zal put his converter under the passenger seat. I am curious where ya'll put the amps (may be in your posts). 


As to sound deadening- are there any specific trouble spots in the tc I could hit with $150 of material and make a difference? Most of my budget is aimed at the equipment right now- but I would delay the sub if it helps a lot on the interstate. 



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Do you remember how many sq ft of B-quiet you used? My tc has a sunroof. Would that make roof access more difficult? 



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I spent hours reading sound deadening forum posts. It is a contentious topic. This website has a good explanation and their products tested well.  Note you only need 30-50% coverage for CLD.




I used Second Skin and its only drawback is price. The doors have some factory deadening so apply yours around it if you want to save money. I did not apply any to the roof because of the headliner. I put leftover tiles on the rear floor.


I mounted the amp/DSP under the front seat on top of the stryofoam block. I glued in plastic screw anchors (the big ones for heavy loads in sheetrock) the stryofoam. There is a 8mm anchor point near the amp on the floor you can use for GND connection.

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On 9/15/2018 at 3:24 AM, omac said:



Do you remember how many sq ft of B-quiet you used? My tc has a sunroof. Would that make roof access more difficult? 



I bought the 50 sq. ft roll of the ultimate. I didn't use it all, I have about 10 sq ft. of it left over. I also used the VComp in the front doors and the floor on top of the ultimate. Prices have gone up a bit since I did it. I have the service manual that made the disassembly and reassembly easy for me, and I'm a 30 year auto technician, just lots of things to take apart and put back together. You may not need to do the roof, I had the time and product, so why not. Also, regarding the front speakers, I forgot to add you can get speaker adapters made by Metra that will interface a 6.5 or 6.75 door speaker to the TC easily. They are about 20 bucks for both sides. That's what I opted for.


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Thanks guys! My back went out  on the 17th but I feel better so I started the project today. I took the third and middle row seats out. I am trying to come up with a plan of attack and make sure I don't botch anything. 


Plan is to:

  • Sound Proof
    • doors
    • floor
    • maybe the ceiling (probably not this weekend unless it involves taking the seats out again)
  • Install LCI7 converter
  • Run Wire for 4 channel speaker amp (dual amp kit for sub-woofer addition later)
  • Run new speaker wire to front and rear doors
  • Install new components in the front doors
  • Install new coaxiasl in the rear doors

I have read a lot of the threads on here in preparation, but it seems prudent to get a little feedback just in case I am off. 


  1. Remove all the seats, carpet and trim necessary to sound proof floor and doors. 
  2. Remove old speakers.
  3. Sound proof floor, doors and more if I have material. (Pillars/walls/rear liftgate)
  4. Run Amp Wire Kit to install amp under the rear passenger seat or passenger front seat (use 60 amp glow plug connection)
    1. need to find place to ground
  5. Install LCI7( hope to leave in the dash near the radio -read where one guy put it in storage under front passenger seat) and run RCA's to amp location (running sub RCA at same time)
    1. keep the RCA's separate from all power cables
  6. Run new speaker wire to front and rear doors from amp (no idea how to get wire into rear door factory wire tube thing)
  7. Install speakers
  8. Put it all back together

I am going to disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 30 mins before removing the front seats so I do not blow the air bags. 




Floor - Do I need to remove the trim around the floor and the door seals/gaskets? 


Ceiling- I have a  moon roof. Do I want to add sound proofing to the ceiling? Is it risky to access with the automatic sunshade? 


Rear Doors- Do I have the necessary access to sound proof by removing the door panel or does the door need to come off? 


Material: Kilmat: 50 mil and 80 mil. Noico Green 170 mil sound insulation. I have a roller for applying material and denatured alcohol to prep metal. 


I plan to work a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening Saturday and Sunday. I am not sure I will finish it this weekend. I have an old truck I can take to work but it would be great to get it done by Sunday night. 


Very excited. 










Edited by omac
Need to correct

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You have a big project because you are doing everything the right way. No way you will be done this weekend. 


Your questions:

Floor: yes you will need to remove the trim pieces. This is easy.


Ceiling: my opinion, no. 


Rear doors: here is where I deviate from the audio purists. I used the factory speaker wires. All connections from the amp speaker wires were made at the head unit connector. I struggled with this decision because I am an electrical engineer and always take the conservative approach. But the audio quality is fine. I seriously doubt you could hear a difference between 18 ga and 14 ga wire. This significantly simplified installation and made it very clean. FYI I am pushing about 120w to my mids.


You will have good access to all the doors after you remove the panels. Panel removal tools are a necessity and are $15 on Amazon.


Keep us updated. Curios to know how the tuning goes. This was new to me and it was surprising how much it affects and improves the sound.


Have fun.



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Thank you for the peace of mind. I was dreading the ceiling; so now, I just won't! I am not even going to full with the audio this weekend other than running wires. Sticking with factory speaker wires. 


Current State of Install:

I have my battery all the way out. I found the  knockout on the driver's side firewall. All the seats are out except the front passenger. The third row floor and walls to the window are exposed (haven't removed c-pillars yet). I have put some Kilmat on the rear tire wells and its is lunch time. 






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I have the carpet completely out. I don't want to try and move the firewall insulation, so I am going to lift it and put some of the sound damping tiles behind it on the drivers side. 

The firewall insulation on my passenger side is soaking wet about 8 inches up the firewall so I am not sure what if anything I will try to do on this side.


Any ideas on where the water might be coming from? 


2014 ford transit connect leak front passenger firewall water moisture below carpet





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Water in the interior often comes from a kinked or plugged up A/C evaporator drain hose. It's at the lower end of the A/C case, down below the shifter and goes through the firewall or floor. Sometimes a simple spider web can block the hose, then water fills up in the evaporator case until it overflows into the interior. Since you are so deep into the interior now, it would be very wise to find the cause and resolve it.

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I think you are right!


Found the following web page which showed me what the hose would look like.




The water line matches the height of the tube. I am about to borrow my brother's compressor to blow it out. I hope that is the right way to go about it. Please let me know if there is anything else I should be doing. 


My picture is from the passenger side foot well.


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Looking at this picture it appears the hose might be disconnected at the evaporator case - I can see the black rubber o-ring at the top 90 degree plastic piece, check that first. It may just need to be pressed back into the case, which would be an easy fix.

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I unplugged it when I was poking around. I took today off to work on the project.


Did anyone remove the rear a/c system that is underneath the second row? I am not sure if that is something I should try to remove to gain access to the floor beneath. 


Please advise. 



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