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omac

2014 Ford Transit Connect Titanium Audio Upgrade

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I am going to upgrade my sound system soon. Keeping the factory stereo. I am looking for some feedback from people that know better. 

 

  • line out converter or amp with speaker level inputs? 
  • Crutchfield says a lot of 6.5 speakers will not fit - is that accurate? 
  • 5 channel amp or mono and 4 channel? 

Looking forward to hearing from the community. 

 

 

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Welcome to the forum.

 

I kept the stock head unit and installed an amp w/DSP and some nice speakers. 6.5" speakers will fit but you have to cut the mounting ring off of the stock speakers.

 

Amp: Audiocontrol d4.80

Speakers: Morel Hybrid

Sub: Bazooka tube

 

The d4.80 is great for aftermarket upgrades using the stock head unit. It handles line input signals and the DSP removes any factory adjustments to the audio signal so you can start with a flat response. If you never had a DSP you will wonder how you ever listened to music without one.

 

My initial speaker upgrade. These were replaced by the Morels:

Power for the amp:

 

 

Here is info on removing the door panels.

There are other posts about speaker installs and complete audio system upgrades you should check out. Good luck with your project.

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I also upgraded my audio system using the factory radio and Sync 3.

 

I added a AudioControl DQ-61 factory integration processor in the little cubby under the passenger seat, it fit perfectly. It will interface with the high level speaker outputs of the factory radio and convert it into low level outputs for amplifiers. And lots of features.

 

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/

 

I have a cargo van, so only a 2 + tweeter system and used a Rockford Fosgate P500X2 power amplifier - 150 watts per channel into 4 ohm speakers You may need a 4 or 5 channel amp depending on your setup.

 

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/selector/mobile-amplifiers/

 

I decided on powered subwoofers, and used JBL BassPro under the seat subs. I have (2), one under each front seat. If you are interested in heavy bass (rap, boom boom etc) these are not the subs for you. The are decent down to 35hz, but nothing below that and the 8" subs don't move a lot of air. But for most rock, and anything else music related, they work fine. I found these on the JBL refurbished site for $75.00 less than normal list price, each.

 

https://www.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/BASSPRO+SL.html

 

Front door and tweeter speakers I used HERTZ HSK-165.4 6.5" 250W COMPONENT SPEAKERS NEODYMIUM TWEETERS & CROSSOVERS, speakers in the factory locations. Some modifications were needed to fit the tweeters, they are larger than the factory tweeters, but I got them to fit in the A-pillars.

 

Great sound from these, very accurate and sweet. My goal was a clean system with punch, and these delivered. Hertz has changed their lineup since then (early 2017).

 

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/

 

I ran 6 gauge wire from the battery, positive and negative; there is a empty fuse location in the high powered junction box (forward of the battery) and added a 100 amp MIDI fuse where the diesel glow plug location would be, and connected the ground to the bolt where the battery ground bolt is connected to the body. Everything is nice and tidy. I purchased 6 gauge lugs and a cool lug crimping tool to get that done, but worked great.

 

I added a fuse block under the driver seat, really nice (overkill) Blue Sea Safety hub 100 fuse block, waterproof, that feeds the amp, both subs, and the processor.  Many hours of wiring and soldering, you will need a good wiring diagram. I daisy chained into the factory harness behind the lower center trim (below the shifter) out from the radio and back from the amp into the factory wiring to the speakers using Audioquest speaker cable.

 

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7725/SafetyHub_100_Fuse_Block

 

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-slip-50-in-wall-speaker-cable-white/2322063.p?skuId=2322063

 

Finally, I did a bunch of sound insulation, using a product called B-Quiet, similar to Dynamat but less cost. I had the entire interior out except the dash, insulated the floors, doors, A-pillars, B-pillars and the complete roof above the headliner. It was a lot of work but the noise floor is much lower, quieter now, makes your sound system sound better, Bluetooth voice activation work better, and much nicer driving experience even with the audio system off.  I'm happy I did it.

 

https://www.b-quiet.com/

 

Last but not least was tuning, getting the gains set right (I had access to a PicoScope, frankly a scope is the very best way to go) then  adjusting the crossovers, sub levels, using a real time analyzer for EQ, man it goes on and on, depending on how finicky you are. I also find significant differences in source change, for example FM, XM, CD, USB all sound different. FM and XM boost the bass, so if you dial it in on CD or USB and it sounds great, it will be too boomy on FM or XM.

 

And that's how I did it. It took a couple of weeks, working slowly, no rush in the evenings and weekends. It was a long road, but I'm happy with it, and the great thing is you can look into the vehicle and nothing looks different from stock and it sounds tits. And that's that.

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by zalienz

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Don & Zal,

 

Thank you! Very informative. 

 

I made the first part of my order. I went with the LC7I for my converter. The Focal brand speakers were on sale so I decided to give them a try - also bought the 4 ch Focal amp because it was recommended by the rep. ( Wish I knew you like Morel - I looked at those). So, plan is to use what y'all shared and get the wires, door speakers and amp installed.

 

I went with a two channel amp wiring kit so I only have to run wires once. I am not sure how that will work with the high powered junction box. I am in new territory, but I like it. 

 

I am going to spend some more time looking at your posts and planning. I think Zal put his converter under the passenger seat. I am curious where ya'll put the amps (may be in your posts). 

 

As to sound deadening- are there any specific trouble spots in the tc I could hit with $150 of material and make a difference? Most of my budget is aimed at the equipment right now- but I would delay the sub if it helps a lot on the interstate. 

 

Cheers

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Zal, 

 

Do you remember how many sq ft of B-quiet you used? My tc has a sunroof. Would that make roof access more difficult? 

 

 

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I spent hours reading sound deadening forum posts. It is a contentious topic. This website has a good explanation and their products tested well.  Note you only need 30-50% coverage for CLD.

 

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

I used Second Skin and its only drawback is price. The doors have some factory deadening so apply yours around it if you want to save money. I did not apply any to the roof because of the headliner. I put leftover tiles on the rear floor.

 

I mounted the amp/DSP under the front seat on top of the stryofoam block. I glued in plastic screw anchors (the big ones for heavy loads in sheetrock) the stryofoam. There is a 8mm anchor point near the amp on the floor you can use for GND connection.

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On 9/15/2018 at 3:24 AM, omac said:

Zal, 

 

Do you remember how many sq ft of B-quiet you used? My tc has a sunroof. Would that make roof access more difficult? 

 

 

I bought the 50 sq. ft roll of the ultimate. I didn't use it all, I have about 10 sq ft. of it left over. I also used the VComp in the front doors and the floor on top of the ultimate. Prices have gone up a bit since I did it. I have the service manual that made the disassembly and reassembly easy for me, and I'm a 30 year auto technician, just lots of things to take apart and put back together. You may not need to do the roof, I had the time and product, so why not. Also, regarding the front speakers, I forgot to add you can get speaker adapters made by Metra that will interface a 6.5 or 6.75 door speaker to the TC easily. They are about 20 bucks for both sides. That's what I opted for.

 

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