Headliner storage access for electric

[Tiller]

I just got a Titanium and I'm looking at adding a couple of things.

I think I can add a standard 4-switch set in the headiner storage section, (behind the sunglass compartment).  Does anyone know if I have to run the power to this area or is there already wiring there for it.  I see an upfitting wiring harness for these switches.   Does that harness simply reside in the headliner or does it need to be run to the fuse box? 

If I have to run it, how is the trim removed from the passenger side pillar to run the wire?

I'm planning on adding a visor line of blue lights for fire and search response along with embedded grill lights and I want them switched control.  I also plan on mounting some LED work lights as well on the exterior as well.

And in the overhead storage area I also want to install a scanner and a two-way programmable fire radio.

[DonShockley]

There is some power in the area for the map lights, but I doubt you would be able to tap that for so much power. Better to run a dedicated circuit. If I recall correctly, somebody mentioned the connection for the upfitter harness (if yours included that option) being under one of the rear trim panels near the fuse box. I doubt it's routed all the way to the overhead console. The full size transit has a well designed connector that the matching switch assembly plugs into. I'm not aware of a similar setup for our small Transit Connects. When I was research the upfitter wiring option prior to my TC purchase, my search results often took me to the Transit info instead of the Transit Connect.

Since I bought off the lot instead of doing a custom order, I didn't get the Upfitter Wiring option so I had to come up with my own solution to run power to my accessories. That's how I supplied power to USB & Lighter sockets in the overhead shelf if you need more details on the process. Here's a couple photos from those threads that show the existing wiring in the area (the red/black with crimped ends are my wires) and the pillar trim removed. The trim pieces just pull off. The blue pegs fit into the black socket in the photo.

[Fifty150]

 

Lots of options out there.  I always advise against visor lights, dash lights, or any lights that are mounted in the vehicle interior.  Why?  They tend to reflect lighting into the vehicle's interior.  At night, it's more of an issue.  

 

How discreet do you need your vehicle to be?  Grill lights are simple.  You can easily acquire "switchback lights" and have the option of running them as daytime running lights, and LED flashers when needed.  Rear mounted switchback lights could also be wired for rear facing work lights, auxiliary turn signals, and "excuse me" flashers when you cut people off as you're responding "code 3".  Switchback LED lights are easily found on Amazon dot com, along with the simple flasher units to make them wig wag.   I personally prefer that my unmarked vehicle stay unmarked.  Strobe flashers can be hidden within OEM light housings.  Low profile speakers can be tucked behind the grill and bumpers.  On my pickup truck, I used the high mount stop light's clear bed lights.  Disconnected the OEM lights and taped over the unused wires.  Installed LED lights in red and blue.  Then wired them to a simple alternating flasher.  Of course, with a pickup, there is a lot of room for improvising.  Simple wig-wags wired into the high beams were good enough.  My siren speaker is tucked behind the grill so that nobody sees it.  But it's okay, since I will not be conducting traffic stops in my personal vehicle, on my own time.

[Fifty150]

This could work for you also.

[Tiller]

Thank you both for replying!  Sorry it took so long for me to get back.  Crazy weekend. Anyway.

I'm trying to decide on exactly what lights and system I want to put in.

I have two objectives. Lighting up areas around the vehicle to use as work areas is probably the primary one. But I don't want to go crazy and I don't want to look like some nutty lights crazed guy.  Right now I'm actually toying with the idea of only putting some work lights on the cross bars of the roof rack.  The cross bars look pretty easy to add and remove and I would simply install them before I left on a call. 

The second is a few blue lights.  I don't need to use them very often.  A few times a year maybe.  Max once a month.  I'm planning on hidden grill strobes for sure.  Then maybe visor area lights. 

Fifty150 - thanks for the posting and lights. I really like the switchbacks!!!  Might try to use something like that.  I appreciate the concern on the interior lights.  My problem is two fold though. One, I'm not crazy about mounting roof lights or roof bar.  I could possibly add a light to the cross bar of the roof rack. Secondly, I live within 10-60 minutes of 3 different states besides mine.  I'm often out-of-state, almost on a daily basis.  I can get in trouble in other states for just having the blue lights on the car.  Most of the time the officers don't hassle the out-of-state FF'ers unless they have reason.  But why push it?  So I'd like the blue lights to be very discreet.

Don:  Do you know what switches or item mounted in the overhead storage system that you did your wiring through?  I'm wondering if there are any switches specifically built for that area?  I included a picture of my overhead.  You can see the oval cover just above the mirror.  That's where I'd like to put some work switches.

Thanks!

Craig

 

 

[DonShockley]

3 hours ago, Tiller said:

Thank you both for replying!  Sorry it took so long for me to get back.  Crazy weekend. Anyway.

......

Don:  Do you know what switches or item mounted in the overhead storage system that you did your wiring through?  I'm wondering if there are any switches specifically built for that area?  I included a picture of my overhead.  You can see the oval cover just above the mirror.  That's where I'd like to put some work switches.

Here's the thread where I detailed how I added a small prebuilt accessory fuse box. It includes links to all the parts I used. No switches were used. I just needed to power up phone charger, dashcam, etc. 

Added My Own Accessory Fuse Box

And here's the thread where I showed how I ran wiring from that accessory fuse box to the headliner to power the USB ports.

Addded USB Power to Overhead Shelf

[Tiller]

Don,

I probably will be looking at doing the fuse box project first.

Did you consider using the floor compartment under/behind the passenger seat for the fuse box location?  I got to see if i can find anything that will fit in that space.  I'm thinking of using that location and running the wires from the rear fuse box either underneath the vehicle or under the side panels along the floor. 

Your fuse box that you referenced says it's 1.6" in height.  (out-of-stock) so I have to find it elsewhere.  The compartment seems to have at least two inches of clearance.  And that would be before I cut the carpet so I can mount directly to the metal.

Edited September 14, 2016 by Tiller

[Tiller]

I'm not planning on removing the compartment behind the front seats.  Pretty much using it as is.

I'm know I won't be doing any welding projects!  :-)  I want to be able to return the vehicle back to stock as much as possible if I decide to trade it in or sell it.

I've been looking at the customization's of course. One of the reasons I bought this.

Any raised floor I put in will probably be designed to take advantage of existing anchor points.

 

[Fifty150]

Go old school.  Get a project box, some switches, and build your own switch panel.

 

[Tiller]

I'm actually thinking of doing that.  What I'll probably do is take the pop on panel cover in that head liner which I think is for optional dome lights and I'll get my handy Dremel tool out and modify it for 4-5 switches and figure a way to mount it more securely.  But my first project will be Don's auxiliary fuse box. 

But I think I'll put one in the rear cargo compartment for some rear accessories I have planned and I'll add a second one up front I think in the passenger side, floor compartment under the seat.  The one upfront I'll power directly from the battery, maybe via cable underneath to the battery. The ignition trigger line coming from the cargo fuse box. 

That way the 40 amp circuit in the back can be used for the rear accessory fuse box.  Otherwise I'd be limited to the 40 amps combined on the two accessory fuse boxes.  Instead, I should be able to have 30 amps available up front and 30 amps in the back.  If I understand correctly what Don did.

 

[Fifty150]

How is the first responder vehicle mod coming along?  

KVID0560.mp4