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I have been recently struggling with a bulged disc in my lower back, and I spend a fair amount of time driving - a bad combination. I have the seat as far back as it can go, and as high as I can lift it. I still feel too bent. If I could go back further, or lift the seat higher, I think it would help extend my legs more. Has anyone modified their seat? Put in spacers to lift it? Or can it be adjusted further back? Or replaced the seat entirely with an aftermarket seat? If so, which brand did you use? Thank you for your help.

I attempted to fit a Cobb front mounted intercooler (FMIC) made for a 2016 Fiesta into my 2016 TC 1.6L and it did not come close to fitting. The TC has very limited space and also has the MAP (manifold pressure) sensor and the evap purge line integrated into the outlet end tank. The only FMIC I found that had the proper dimensions is a Mishmoto Z-Line. This FMIC is a universal fit model. The downside is it is only slightly larger in volume than the stock FMIC. I bought a MAP sensor mounting bracket and 1/8 NPT weld bung from ATP Turbo. A local machine shop welded them to the outlet tank. The MAP sensor must be oriented so the electrical connector is opposite the evap connector. The evap line connects use the same connector as 3/8” fuel line. I used a Dorman short length of replacement steel fuel line with integrated connector ring and attached it to the FMIC using a 3/8” tubing connector. I had to bend the fuel line 45 deg to mate it with the stock evap connector. The hard part of the install was fabricating mounting brackets. The top of the stock FMIC slips onto two plastic tabs. I cut, drilled and cut, cut, cut some aluminum to make a similar bracket for the Mishi FMIC. The bottom brackets were simply bolted to the frame. The stock FMIC has 2” hose connections. The Mishi has 2.5”. I used 90 deg reducing elbow silicone hoses to connect to the stock hoses and pipes (there are 3 different diameter hoses and pipes from the turbo to the intake: some as small 1.75”). Cutting and clamping the elbows was surprisingly time consuming (even though I used the trick of a hose clamp as a cutting guide). The bottom bolts on the FMIC protruded into the plastic bottom cover. Cutting some ribs and drilling a big hole allowed the cover to be reconnected. So how does the Mishmoto FMIC work?............Not much better than the stock FMIC The Stock FMIC produced ambient-vs-intake air temperate differentials of 17 to 35 deg F on the highway (hot days). City driving had differentials of at least 25 deg and higher. The early results on the Mishi shows it is about 5-10 deg better than stock. But it does NOT hold intake temperatures 5 deg above ambient like a large, performance FMIC would. One reason for this is I left the active grill shutters (AGS) connected. They only open 30% at highway speeds and often partially close when driving around town. Removing the shutter completely or maybe removing the slats in front of the FMIC would allow better cooling. Plus the Z-Line is the lowest performing FMIC according to Mishi. The Mishimoto probably has slightly less backpressure than the stock unit and this will improve performance. Overall I give myself an "A" for execution and "C" for results. If anyone wants to try this install, I can provide links to the parts I used. Just let me know.

I've just started to modify my connect, and I've started with just a couple of small things under the hood. 1. Focus RS Air Box: Before anyone goes and points out that the lid dosen't seal to the bottom of the hood, look at the K&N air filters with the open ends, same effect, hot air. Simple fix, drive faster. lol. It is a very noticeable increase in throttle response and overall performance. Probably less than 5hp, but still noticeable. I've also noticed about a 3mpg increase since the installation which includes a K&N Air filter. Price: ~$60.00 Link: http://www.trueblueracingparts.com/16-FORD-FOCUS-RS-AIRBOX_p_555.html The air box comes with an OEM paper air filter, but any 2012+ ford focus air filter will work as they are all the same. Standard, ST, RS, all identical. Pick your poison. 2. Mountune Silicone Induction Hose: The red thing. Didn't really notice any real increase with this, but just by observation alone, this piece will create far less turbulence than the OEM rubber corrugated hose. I say it adds visual horsepower, because we all know, red stuff under the hood means power. lol Price: ~$69.00 Link: https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-High-Flow-Induction-Hose-Focus-ST-p/2363-ih-blk.htm 3. Fiesta ST Engine Cover; It was a direct fit. I hated the original engine cover. So boring. Since it's the identical engine as the FiST anyways, less the tune, might was well wear the proper hat. Price: ~$45.00 Link: https://www.powerstrokeplus.com/oem-parts/ford-engine-cover-c1bz6a949b?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmcTJBRCYirao6oWPyMsBEiQA9hQPbu8PPdPHVm4Xbt085j2FpE4qswgd8lHAapEyIMiWqOUaAifB8P8HAQ 4. Boomba Bypass Valve Adapter for Fiesta ST: Simple and easy install with only three bolts. I didn't even have to remove the wheel to get to it. Now my van goes PSSSHHHHH and everyone that hears it looks so incredibly confused. I love it! I will say, that since the bypass valve is electronically controlled, it does go off a bit too much. It's sensitive enough to blow off in my driveway in the morning at idle when it goes from cold to warm cycle. Turbosmart does make one for the Fiesta ST that will also bolt up, but converts it to vacuum controlled versus electronic. Price: ~$85.00 Link: http://www.boombaracing.com/1-5-1-6-ecoboost-engine-50-50-blow-off-valve-adapter-bov/ From what I've gathered, I can see that it's a Fiesta ST Engine in a Focus engine bay. More parts are on their way, but I won't post until I confirm fitment.

After 10 months it finally happened! SWB, Ecoboost, Leather, Navi, Hitch, Backup sensors, Panoramic roof and Deep Impact Blue. Super stoked! future mods 2014 Focus ST 18's(had them for 3 months already), Eibach M-Sport springs(Eibach USA ordered 5 sets from Germany), Tint the Rest of the windows, 1up USA bike rack trays inside(replacing the 60% bench), Install baby seat, Rear upper reflectors, K&N filter and lid and the list goes on and on.............. thanks to everyone who posted on here to motivate me and keep me excited after so many bad dealer experiences and failed purchases

Does anyone have any knowledge about the rear backup camera on the TC Titanium (2016) or similar? A friend of mine got a new Dodge Ram truck with a rear cam and bed cam. He can activate either one at anytime. I really wish the TC would have a way to activate the rear cam on demand. So I was wondering how the TC's cam is wired. 1) Is it wired so that that putting the car into reverse, turns on the cam and and the video senses the cam is on and displays the output. OR... 2) Is it wired so that that putting the car into reverse, notifies the computer system which then powers on the rear camera? If its case #1, then could it be possible to install a switch that would send power to the cam which the computer system/video system would sense and display the video. Any thoughts??? Tiller

I bought the Rousch Yates JMS BoostMax ECU controller for my 2016 Transit Connect Wagon 1.6 Ecoboost and have decided not to install it. I am so pleased with my results from the K&N 57s-4000 kit that I don't really need anymore horsepower. The kit is unused, but I did open the box just to look at everything. The part number is ryp-bmx1.6. This is the exact one I bought on eBay for $289 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Roush-Yates-by-JMS-BoostMAX-Digital-Device-1-6-2-0-Ford-Ecoboost-/252498094259. I waited too long and they won't let me return it now so I'm willing to sell it for $200 + shipping to a forum member. If it's not sold here I'll offer it to the Escape and Focus guys. If you're not familiar with this thing here's the basics: It's a tuner that plugs into the MAP, TIP and pedal position sensors which increases boost pressure (up to +5 psi) along with maintaining the A/F ratio. There is a knob you can mount under the dash for on-the-fly adjustment of the boost. There is also an optional "87 octane chip" which replaces the knob (it basically puts the setting at 50% all the time). Claimed increase is 11 hp/20 ft-lbs with the 87 octane chip although I did see someone online saying they dynod +20hp to the wheels at 90% setting. This guy dropped 7/10ths of a second on his 1/4 miles time with the 87 octane setting http://www.imgrum.net/user/jmschip/849756481/1235183509146380785_849756481 so it certainly works. PM me if interested. I'm in no hurry to sell as I may end up changing my mind again and just installing it. It's pretty easy to install, plug-and-play with some wire routing.