Sampa
T.C. Member-
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Everything posted by Sampa
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Thanks everybody for your info. I'm pretty certain that I reset the OIL CHANGE reminder. And unlike the Chrysler product that my TC replaced, you get feed back that the system is resetting, then finally, the system is reset. Perhaps driving habits were a little different this last time. Most of the time it was putting around town then up to the mountains and some snowy high elevation passes. Sure didn't seem like the 2.5L was working all that hard. Guess I'll see how many miles I get before the next reminder? May just have to ignore it and follow my usual 5,000 mile schedule.
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I typically change my fully synthetic (Mobil One) oil at 5,000 mile intervals. I recently got the instrument display to change my oil at barely 4,000 miles! I went ahead and did the change. The oil was a little dirty. I'm wondering what factors determine the Oil Change Required message to display? Is it simply timing the hours of engine operating or is it hopefully, something more complex?
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This seemed like the right spot to ask another 'newbie' question, this time related to the interior. On the second gen T.C. wagons, what the purpose of the little hatch underneath the front passenger seat? Smuggler's compartment? It's not exactly handy for a defensive weapon if you have to access it from the second row seat foot well. Is it access to something I'm too blind to see? I guess if the catalytic converter is nearby, it could keep that slice of pizza warm???
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Tire Rack .com has a wealth of information for comparing tires. I have two ContiproContacts in 215/55R16 that will need replacing before the end of summer. I've been considering the Goodyear Assurance Weatherready. It's a grand touring so it has a good blend of handling, wet/dry traction, reasonable tread life and hopefully a lot quieter than the Contis. I had considered switching to a 215/60R16 but couldn't find the correct load rating. The thought was to gain a little more cushion with that profile but that may not be necessary if the Goodyears are all they are cracked up to be.
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Thank you Beta Don. I thought that something had to give to get that L-O-N-G battery out of the box. I'll likely do the install myself as that is how I learn about these things.
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Thank you Tom. T.C.s are new territory for me and all guidance is much appreciated.
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Jim, you are not alone. I recently purchased a used 2015 TC with the sync radio. In a previous noisy Mustang I really appreciated the speed sensitive volume for my radio. I have tried all settings; OFF - 7 on my TC and notice no difference at all. I like to be able to fix things myself and hate to take it to the dealer although that is supposed to be covered under warranty. I feel like I must be missing something else in the enabling set up.
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Just wanted check on this. To replace the battery, JUST removing the air cleaner lid & bellows provides enough room? I bought my 2015 T.C. used, and have never had the battery out. I see the center strap that is held by two screws. So in the rear bottom of the battery tray there is a spacer that 'snaps' out to provide enough space to center a group 48 (H6) battery? I'm guessing an H6 battery has has its posts centered so it reversible to allow the positive post forward?
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How many power train components are shared between the T.C. and Focus? I gather programming might still be different?
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Wow! That is an interesting article. It more sense than the story I heard.
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Okay, so much for an easy way to use some perfectly good tires I have sitting around. I know they are different transmissions and engines but I did have the shift programming altered at the Ford dealer on my Ranger.
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Beta Don, you nailed it! It's just a matter of adapting to the different pedal response. The T.C. is actually my wife's vehicle and I drive a gutless Ranger. I'm used to not only putting my foot through the floor but also considering what extra weight I can jettison as I try to enter a freeway. So my transition between vehicles is kind of rough on my passengers. You know, I hear a lot of, "Oh I don't mind walking" or "Really, I need the exercise"
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According to a car salesman, so take this with a grain of salt...All Transit Connects are shipped from Europe WITHOUT windows. The openings are punched out at the factory and a gasket and steel blank are installed. Also no rear seats are installed before being exported. All this is to get around some sort of tariff based on seats belts installed in a vehicle. If you have rear seat belts (therefore seats) you must have a passenger vehicle. If you have windows but no seats, you are trying to pull a fast one. So according to the salesman, one reason why it takes so long to get a new T.C. is "dealer prep", done somewhere. The steel blanks are removed and glass installed and also seats with seat belts. So in theory, we should be able to take out that steel blank and install glass where desired. I can't verify any of this because I have a wagon with glass in all locations.
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Hey Fifty150, I probably won't do that right away as the vehicle still has an extended warranty on it. I don't like to give dealerships an excuse not to follow up on a warranty issue. That said, I will likely try a FL400S next oil change. The intriguing thing about the FL-1A is that it should bring the oil capacity very close to the 6 quart level and have tons of filtering surface area.
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I've got a set of 215/65R16 tires that are nearly new off a Chrysler van that died. They would be nearly 1.7" larger O.D. I'm not sure how bad that would mess up my speedometer. They might offer a smoother/quieter ride?? Has anybody run this size on a SWB T.C. ?
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I've always been one to try to fit a higher capacity filter in as long is has the same flow/pressure ratings. On my 2015 2.5L I would have to get the die grinder out to "massage" the little triangular pieces on the filter mount that interfere with the larger FL-1A. I checked because I have a couple laying around. I was thinking that it would also bring the total oil capacity closer to 6 quarts. So the FL400S fits without any modification?
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I'm new to T.C.s and I believe I know what framebinder is talking about. The drive-by-wire throttle ought to be linear. I remember someone else mentioning in an earlier post that it seemed as though 50% throttle occurs within the first 1/2" of travel. I had an '05 V-6 Mustang with a nice linear drive-by-wire. Of course the last half of the travel didn't really matter, the 4.0L engine didn't have much top end. I'm wondering if the programming on the throttle can adjusted?
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Hi - Pleased to be joining your forum and know I'll be learning a lot. I'm finally getting away from the big Chrysler "mini" vans and looking forward to enjoying driving my, 'new to me', 2015 SWB TC XLT. Thanks to my sons both finally having reliable transportation, my wife and I don't feel like we have to maintain a huge van for hauling kids and grand kids. So we down-sized to a five passenger model. Barely had the TC for a week but sure enjoy driving it. It handles like a car instead of a small ocean liner! Got to get used to the touchy drive-by-wire throttle. I'm an old, low tech guy so this has been a chance for me to catch up with the rest of the world. Hi tech on our previous van meant it didn't have a hand crank starter sticking out front (I could be exaggerating a bit). Our 'new' TC has a large touch screen, bell & whistles and even brakes that can really stop you. I've slowly been stepping down from V-8 engines to a V-6 in my mini pickup and now a 2.5L four cylinder! That little engine does pretty darn good with the six speed transaxle. Shopping for a used TC was an interesting experience. My wife and I were delighted to finally make our purchase from an honest salesman at a reputable dealership after swimming through a sea of sleazy ones. Well, I'll save all my question for the appropriate places.