AVguy2

Wow that is a lot of miles! Do you have pics of your TC as well as parts TC? What kind of delivery route do you have at almost 600 miles a day? Oh and welcome to the forum.

So I would like to relate my recent experience with the first service appointment for our 2017 TC. We have put a considerable amount of miles on the TC since we purchased it in July. I know the TC has the IOLM monitor but it had not put up any indicator for needing a change and we were close to 10K miles. I scheduled an appointment at a local dealer (we had purchased out of state due to lack of availability locally). The TC hit 10,003 miles as it rolled into the service bay. The service advisor was perplexed and concerned that I had waited till 10,000 miles for the service. They said it should have been 7500 miles at the latest. I offered to show them the manual and that shut them down from giving me a hard time. They did the 10K mile service (Oil+filter, tire rotation and the other items). I took the car home and my wife used the car Monday - Wednesday without any apparent issues. Thursday morning she texted a pic (below) after she felt something dragging under the car. I came home from work to investigate. I found one plastic rivet as the last remaining fastener still attaching the splash shield to the car. I removed the rivet, put the shield in the car and drove to the dealer. They reattached the shield and apologized for the inconvenience it caused. I looked at how it was attached when I got home again and I am surprised that they appear to have not used all the fastener locations that were used at factory. There are three screws along the front edge and some along the rear edge but nothing else. I think it should have 8 fasteners but it appears to have only 5. I don't expect this from the dealer on a six month old vehicle in for its first service. I believe the original tech just forgot to reinstall the screws and only had a few plastic rivets holding it in place. I do pretty much all my own maintenance on my other cars so this really bothers me.

To the OP that definitely looks like the OEM Ford supplied locks. It is also used on the spare tire (at least on mine) which might be easier to get to if you need to bring something to a dealer. I would "hope" that based on the VIN a Ford dealer should be able to order a replacement tool as it is much like a key. They should know what the TC shipped with. If the tires are new and the locks are in place I would go to the Costco (where tires were installed?) and definitely look at what tools they have in a box. Sound like their installers are careless with those tools if they have a box of them. I would hate to get a flat after buying tires from them...

Did forget to note that all of my work is related to a US spec TC with a 4 pin trailer connector. Euro spec models use a 13 pin trailer connector and everything could be different including the module itself.

OK so the final results are in on this. I am up at my daughters house where I have a utility trailer to actually test with. On Wednesday I made an appointment for "programming" if I needed it at the dealer near my daughters house for today. It was raining heavily on Wednesday so I did not get to test the install until this morning. Before I went to the dealer I plugged the trailer in to the car and everything works - Tail lights, Brake lights, Directionals. I also get a message showing that parking/blindspot sensors are not available due to trailer being attached to car. I assume that also means the sway control function is also activated. So in the end programming was NOT required to get the module functioning which I think is a bit strange but I'll take it. I did drive to the dealer to let them know that I did not need the programming as they were only five minute away. If I ever get a programming tool to mess around with I will experiment with looking at these settings. I am pleased with the end result even though it took a lot longer to accomplish then I first thought it would. There are a couple of things that I am still curious about though: 1. I have a passenger wagon with the rear fuse box (AJB). My wagon had a fuse in the required location (F26) for the trailer module. If the fuse box is present but the F26 fuse is not will the connectors be on the harness? I don't know the answer to that. It would take some one who has that situation to look for the connectors. 2. My TC was built in March 2017. I ordered the later version of the module as I assumed it would be the correct one based on such a recent production date. Earlier TC's might require the earlier version of the module and possibly slightly different harnesses. It might not matter either way as sometimes part numbers change for unrelated reasons. Anyway the module I used is Part Number DT1Z19H332G. The "earlier" version is DT1Z19H332E - not sure what the real difference is between them. 3. There appears to be a slight change in the wiring diagrams between 2014 and 2015+ models after a certain chassis number sometime in 2015. I will they to post diagrams later showing the change 4. Vans have the fuse for the trailer module in the "High Current Battery Junction Box" (BJB) under the hood near the main fusebox/battery. Fuse is F7 and is also 40A just as the wagon version uses in the AJB at F26. I would be curious to know if that fuse is present on "all" vans as well as if the harness connectors are in the correct locations at the rear of vehicle. It would take someone else to go look for them. So there you have pretty much all that I know and have done with this addition.

I will be up there tomorrow night and will be testing on Wednesday - so not too much longer.

My plans changed slightly and I did not get up there. I will be there over the holiday so I will definitely be testing. There is also a Ford dealer very close by that according to the reviews I can find online has a sterling service reputation so maybe if needed I can get them to do the programming. Hopefully for less than the $135/hr my local dealer wants to charge. Will update when I know.

There is actually one more step needed I believe: Programming via a VCM 2 interface. I got a quote at the dealer I purchased parts through for a 1 hour appointment needed at $135/hr. I need to plug a trailer in to see if it is already active somehow - technically it is possible that it is but I doubt that it is. I'll be up at my daughters on Saturday so I will try it out as she has the trailer I used earlier in the thread. I have been thinking about a clone VCM 2 or similar interface as a purchase since it would be around the same cost as the dealer programming. As for the cost it certainly is more expensive than the crappy Ford aftermarket module which requires soldering ( Really it does - Ford has to rethink this in general) or a plug in harness from Curt, Tekonsha or others. WIRING ASY - TRAILER CONNECTIO Part #: DT1Z13A576B $20.94 1 $20.94 WIRE ASY Part #: DT1Z15436E $27.88 1 $27.88 MODULE - TRAILER BRAKE Part #: DT1Z19H332G $98.70 1 $98.70 SCREW Part #: W505253S450L $4.48 1 $4.48 NUT - EXPANSION Part #: W712900S300 $3.60 1 $3.6 With the same hitch as supplied from the factory which was this: KIT - TRAILER HITCH BAR Part #: DT1Z19D520A $212.14 1 $212.14 The hitch has pre drilled attachment points for the wiring harness clips. An aftermarket hitch could certainly be used for some cost savings - I just preferred to use the factory unit. The screw and the plastic expansion nuts were not needed for my setup but they were cheap and I was not sure so I got them to be sure I had them if needed. So the total without programming was $359.66 Add the screw at $4.48 if needed. So it costs from a hardware perspective about what the hitch setup would cost as a factory option which I am fine with as it will give me the Sway control function and the auto magic shut off of the rear parking sensors etc. Just have to get it activated - probably.

I can happily report that this solution is a GO!, at least in my case. My TC wagon has a fuse pre populated into the AJC (rear fuse box) #26. If that fuse is not present the solution may not work. Commercial vans have the fuse in the front fuse box under the hood and the harness may be different. Some basic steps: Rear seat on right side need to be unbolted and moved to get clearance to remove trim panel Trim panel needs to be removed - Gaskets for sliding door and hatch need to be moved where they contact this panel - easy Use a trim panel tool to pry clips to minimize any possibility of damage to panel - some are hard to access. So here are some photos: Fuse Box Location of connectors for CanBus towing module (Circled in red) Connectors wrapped in factory tape Connectors unwrapped from harness Connectors plugged into module Module mounted - It uses 3M mounting tape (basically heavy duty velcro strips with adhesive) Harness to underside of car - it includes the grommet Under car section - there are two clips with no apparent mounting points - perhaps someone with factory installed wiring can clue me in.

So all of the parts for the trailer wiring have arrived: Grounding screw Tow Harness Part 2 Tow Harness Part 1 Can bus towing module I hope to work on installing tomorrow if weather is OK.

This site has searchable wiring diagrams: Click the TSB button. http://www.wilsonautoelectric.com/TechnicalHelp

You could try this site. Free but requires some information. http://www.wilsonautoelectric.com/TechnicalHelp They also have pretty complete wiring diagrams available for many makes and models.

Indeed, it would be exactly that.

Our family fleet currently consists of: 2004 Saab 9-3 Arc Convertible 2005 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0 Sedan 2012 Hyundai Tuscon 2017 Ford Transit Connect Wagon Titanium My first car was a real oddball, a 1976 Chevrolet Cosworth Vega. First American production car with DOHC 16 valve engine + electronic fuel injection + aluminum cast alloy wheels. I still have a bunch of spare parts including a complete engine, wheels and some other items. I hope to find another one someday. Long story.

Wondering if anyone here has experimented with or used a clone VCM2 diagnostic/programming tool on their TC? I'm thinking of getting one to be able to make changes that require this tool and was hoping to get some feedback. For my Saab's I have a similar device called the Mongoose Pro GM II that works very well. This is made by Drew Technologies. They also make a Ford version of the Mongoose but it runs more than double the cost of a clone VCM2. There is also another product called the VCX Nano that has some possibilities.