desert_connect

Correct, the chip inside the key placed in the vehicle will allow the vehicle to be started and drivable. In other words leaving a spare key inside will cancel or turn off the electronic anit-theft function. You can disable the chip inside the key by wrapping the key in aluminum foil.........I did this on both my Subaru and Ford Ranger, tested it and it did the job.

Looks great, Don. A bit of SS really changes the front end looks! I looks like you got a German (?) plate. I found after searching around that I could get a plate with the state flag so I did that.

Thanks, windguy! I did briefly look into re-drilling the license plate holes but looked like my numbers/letters would interfere so I made the sheetmetal adaptor. I don't see a good reason why Ford didn't raise it to begin with. The correct location would not have been any more trouble than the incorrect location. I also had to bend and modify the lic plate light housing clips. They were always popping loose and rattling.

I raised my rear license plate and added a Euro style front plate!

For anyone using the Curt trailer wiring and wanting it permanently mounted outside this little Curt bracket works great. I did have to make a bracket to mount it on the hitch since there isn't a good place on the bumper.

It beats a shovel ! Short trenching video:

I cut the yellow and green input wires a few inches from the side of the control box and spliced them back together using butt connectors. Yellow to green and green to yellow. The longer green T plugs into the left side taillights and turns to yellow before entering the C-box, opposite colors on the right side and all is well. The splices are inside and dry. This was easy and seemed to be the least invasive way to achieve my goals.

Simpler yet, I mounted the box on the R side and simply reversed the L and R turn wires beside the box, done! Green goes to L instead of yellow. Everything else works perfectly including using the grommet hole to run the lead permanently outside.

Here is a good article on tire load capacities for anyone wanting to know how tires loads are calculated. It explains the differences between P/metric tires vs LT and how they apply to passenger cars and load carrying vehicles such as pickup, SUV or van. This answered my questions on the subject and may help others as well. http://www.tirereview.com/tire-types-and-load-capacity/

I also plan to get my van updated to kill the exterior lighting. We camped in it for 3 week this summer and the lighting was a constant hassle and constant source of irritation. The only way I could keep the lights off most of the time (not all) was to open the drivers door before shutting the engine off, then run around and open all the doors. Then I could 1/2 latch all the doors and keep the lights off but push too hard doing the 1/2 latch and the lights are back on again, then I'd have to use the dimmer switch and flash my headlights at whatever or whoever is in front of me. It's a huge pain! Good luck....!

I also have the regular SYNC with a single CD player and looks like the generic pic I attached. There are 2 buttons each side of the volume knob below the other radio preset buttons and it is the third one over that changes the backup view. These are also the same buttons to choose options at the bottom of the screen. There is a very good chance DonShockley is right on about the angle view change you experienced. Your picture looks exactly like my standard backup view with the 3 colored guide lines, dotted black center line and the bumper showing.

After reading this thread I played with my backup camera. This is a 17' TC XLT cargo van with barn doors, Curt hitch and wiring and it has SYNC. Right away I discovered while in reverse if I push the third button over from the L like I was selecting something on the radio screen the camera picture magnifies. If I remember correctly it deletes the tracking lines and has more of a downward angle picture. It works really well for backing up to a trailer, in fact, it is very accurate! Oddly, to go back to the normal view I push the same button not the second button that lines up with the - and it's default is always the normal view.

Good idea! I don't see any reason why a person couldn't just add magnets to that light at the two screw mounting holes in the base using two small machine screws. They have cabinetry magnets at Lowe's and HD with a hole in the center for a screw. This would however lift the light fixture up the thickness of the magnet.

Thanks all. windguy; I don't remember exactly how the oem light popped out but it did so easily. I searched for awhile to find a light that was small and had a switch, not too bright, not pure white (blue) or yellow and this was it. It has a natural white color and an opaque lens so it won't leave a person blind with spots. I grounded it to one mounting screw, then ran a single wire thru the channel above the doors/light, down the rear pillar and connected it to the 12v outlet plug hot wire behind the R rear panel. So far, it seems to be live all the time. I installed the light on the drivers side of center because that worked out better for us sitting on the sofa. I may add another one somewhere towards the front.

It weighs 1300# including the 260# of counter weight I added. I have never weighed the tongue. But given that 1/2 of the added counter weight is on the tongue it has to be pushing up around 250#. I towed it one mile across town at 20 mph.

Thanks.....I recently moved to AZ from the Paciific Coast

Towed my little backhoe the other day!

Thanks, windguy! The black clamp on thing is a cheapy 12v fan. Correct, in the rear I mounted a small LED light fixture I bought from Amazon. A great little light for 10$ and I hooked up to live power. I removed the oem cargo light. LED light link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015U5LCNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are pictures of my simple camper conversion. I needed a bed for two, a sofa, a table, a place for a cooler, it had to be easy to install and remove. I built this during a week and then we went on a 3 week camping trip spending every night in it. Overall, it works well for us. 3300 miles on the trip and averaged 29.0 mpg. I have since removed the top half of the folding seat back, it is more comfortable w/o. The eye bolt thing on the rear door holds the door open a couple of inches for ventilation while at the same time being able to lock the door. The third cushion fits nicely behind the seat back. The unit is held in place with 2 turn buckles, 1 in rear shown in pics and the other is at the L mid tie down point. I can remove this in a few minutes by myself and have an empty van again.

Hello! New here with a new TC from Arizona. I'll post pictures of my simple camper in the conversion (custom builds) section. Thanks, Ernie