mculbert

No idea why the axle gets replaced too. Listed on the receipt as a CV joint/axle. I peered underneath, looks like a new left axle. Shop was able to get CarMax to pay for that part of the repair, so I'm all good. Guessing it's possible an improper shape/profile of the axle at the sealing point could be the issue that causes the failure? In which case replacing just the seal would not be a sufficient long-term repair. The full synthetic fluid is very nice. Down in the 30s here this morning, shifting was still silky smooth. Will be interesting to see how well it works in Jan/Feb here, which can get down to -20.

Sorry to revive an old thread, but it appears Ford has discontinued this filter. I had on order from Autonation for a couple weeks, and they just cancelled it yesterday. Mine seemed super dirty, but this is a synthetic filter, so it's washable. It cleaned up nicely with warm water and a bit of dawn dish soap.

Got mine back from the transmission shop today. They found a leaking left axle seal, which apparently means that entire axle gets replaced. I had a 90-day warranty from the seller, so they agreed to pay for that pay for the replacement. Fluid was changed out with full synthetic. Shifting seems to be a bit smoother now.

Also wanted to let everyone know that this Ford-branded roof rack does use Thule lock cylinders. You can use the number on the face of the cylinder to order replacement keys from third-parties online. Took me a few minutes to figure out how this rack is detached. You use the key to unlock, and then you can pull outwards on the endcap. Then spin the endcap counterclockwise to loosen that end of the bar from the roof rail. I'm going to remove these for our east coast trip, as they generate a fair bit of wind noise on the highway. Also any protrusion causes a bit of drag, reducing MPG.

Thank you! Going on Monday to a local transmission shop that my longtime mechanic refers all transmission work to. Heading out to the east coast on Friday, so wanted to get that done before we travel.

Just did mine with the excellent @AdanA method. That nut is called a teenut, most hardware stores should have them in the fastener area. You want the version without teeth (the toothed ones are intended for wood!) Very simple to implement, and almost looks as if the van came that way. This solves the annoying floppiness. Keeps it in position no matter if it's open or closed.

I had a new 2023 on order for over a year. But once it arrived, used TC prices had started coming back down to a reasonable level, so I declined it. I've wanted a TC forever, since most bicycles will roll straight in. My only slight concern was my Salsa fatbike, which is quite tall. I thought I might have to remove the third row seats for extra clearance, but it went right in! I picked up some light cam straps to keep bikes from banging around too much. Loving the TC already, it drives like a car but hauls like a small truck. Even my wife thinks it's great. It replaces my beloved 2012 5-speed Focus, which I've owned since new & the wife hated. Some minor maintenance performed so far: - Rotated tires (including the tire position sensor re-initialization dance) - Changed engine air filter (old one was not bad, but had a new one and I was into the airbox already) - Changed front cabin filter (exceptionally dirty, Ford logo, probably the original) - Ordered rear cabin filter (This is also super dirty) It has Ford-branded roof crossbars, but didn't come with a key. These appear to be Thule locks? Cylinders are imprinted with Thule system numbers; and my existing Thule keys fit into the cylinder. I ordered a replacement from an online source for Thule keys. Will re-post with results. To do: - Order all weather mats - Order recovery hook - Back to the dealer on Wednesday, as they appear to have over-filled the oil when they changed it. Level is way above the full mark.

Found a super clean silver 2014 XLT locally. Alabama/Mississippi car, so no road salt. Only 61,000 on the clock. Only immediate change will likely be be swapping the radio for a double-DIN unit. I hadn’t dealt with Sync for a while, I’d forgotten how terrible it is.

Finally heard today that my custom ordered Transit Connect is set to arrive in about a week or so. I placed the order originally way back in November 2022! Sadly I’m going to have to pass on it due to other circumstances. Fortunately it looks like used pricing has come down a bit in the last year.

Hopefully they can connect you with a dealer. I'm a Costco member, and submitted an inquiry for a TC. They told me there were no dealers in my area that were participating in the program for that model ?

There is a common issue with these Ford CD radios, once they are a few years old. The electronics are similar across Transit Connect, Focus and Fiesta. Behind the button panel/readout (where the CD goes in) is the audio hardware. Inside the unit, the block of the two amplifier transistors (left and right) are fastened to the metal case of the unit via screws. This allows the metal case to act as a necessary heat sink, as they generate heat during operation, and excess temperature will destroy the transistors. There is a thin layer of heat sink compound between the transistors and the metal case, to improve heat transfer. Over time, this dries out, which tends to cause it to be an insulator. This causes overheating and weird noises from the speakers. If you are handy, you can open the dash, remove the unit, open the case, clean off the old compound, add new compound and re-assemble. This compound is common stuff, same as used for computer processor heat sinks. It's inexpensive and you can find a tube at Best Buy, Amazon, etc. You want a thin, even layer for best results. On my 2012 Focus, I was not able figure this out before the thumpy noises became extremely loud, constant and the transistors were destroyed. On my daughter's 2011 Fiesta, I was able to successfully fix when the problem first started, and she's had no issues since (been good for something like three years). Hopefully I haven't over-explained things, I just wanted to have the full info out there for anyone on the forums going forward. If you try the repair, let us know how it goes.

I have not yet converted to LEDs, but have previously seen LED replacements online that have the resistor built in.