kookmyers

FREE 2014 wiring diagram manual Keyless Keypad. I don’t remember the story on this but it’s used as it does not have the 2-sided tape on the back. No guarantees here! (The price is right) All listed parts are free for pickup. I don’t want to ship anything, and I’d rather not “hold” anything, sorry. San Diego, ca, near 805 at Governor drive, 92122

I received my rear sensor speaker today. Shoutout to Brandon Apell at Gaudin Auto Parts. USPS lost my first package and Brandon hooked me up with a second shipment. It appears my issue is fixed with a quick garage test. I have valuable information to share. I have mentioned I have a ‘14 titanium. It has the panoramic roof. I was taking apart the van to try and lower the headliner to get to the speaker above the left shoulder of the driver. I was finally able to remove the interior light in the headliner and by reaching my hand through the hole directly to the left (while facing forward) I was able to find the speaker, peel it off the headliner and barely pull it through the hole to access the cable disconnect. HEADLINER REMOVAL IS NOT NECESSARY ON THE ‘14 TITANIUM WITH PANORAMIC ROOF. thank you again everyone! notes: pulled the old speaker. 0 ohms new speaker marked 50 ohms (I forgot to measure it!)

I confirmed today that my rear speaker is reading as an open circuit while my front speaker is about 50 ohms. Thank you again for the pictures and diagrams! I plan to order a speaker and then dig into the headliner. edit: I placed the order but I won’t be able to get to it for a few weeks as I am going on vacation. Will be several weeks before I report back.

I just went to look at my headliner, and getting to that speaker is going to be rough. I am really hoping it’s the front speaker!

This is an awesome thread. Thank you all for all the information! I have a ‘14 titanium with the same problem condition. I went around the vehicle to listen for the clicking and think they are all working (the dB level was different at each sensor but present nonetheless). I intend on accessing the PAM to measure the speakers. is the speaker in the same place on the fully headlined passenger version? I have the moonroof also… I do not have Forscan as I don’t have a laptop that would make using it easy.

Mine did it to me today. Wouldn’t open. No way to open it from the inside. I read izinbloom’s post (thanks!). I slapped the right corner of the hatch and it immediately made the sound of the hatch actuator. Yay! I opened it then and pulled the boot. Found a few wires in bad shape. I pulled the inside trim to get more length on the harness to work on it. Lots of sticky gross black masking tape falling off the wires. I’m pretty sure the dealer taped wires when I complained the actuator was firing multiple times as the hatch raised each time. I added some solder to the worst wire then taped them all. Hopefully it lasts longer this time.

Bump. Anyone?

Went on a road trip with a rear hitch bike rack. We found ourselves frequently pushing the button to turn them off when we reversed. The van does not have the OEM hitch....it is an aftermarket hitch I added without any electrical connections. The problem is that we cannot turn them on now. Pushing the button does not do anything. The button is not mentioned anywhere in the owners manual. The button is the furthest right button under the auto AC control pad. In case it matters the vehicle in question is a 14 titanium wagon. Any ideas? The only thing I’ve tried was holding the button down while starting the van. I thought it worked since the “OFF” didn’t light up but it (the light on the button) came on when we put it into gear. This effects both the front and rear sensors.

I ended up using switched power off the connector that was easily accessible at the headliner when I removed the shelf. I also found unswitched power there and used it for the converter. When loaded, the voltage dropped to 4v. Took off the converter, put it on the switched line and all seems to be working well. Not sure why the garage remote works with power removed all the time.

I just measured the draw on the unloaded converter. Using a battery charger as the input, I had 12.7V on the unloaded leads. With the converter as the only load, and nothing on it’s output, it drew 7.2mA. That seems high considering I don’t want to be over 50 for the whole van. Thoughts?

Thanks. That's a great idea for speakers. I just realized that my garage remote is the kind that cycles codes. Whenever i replace the battery i have to pair the remote with the opener. So hooking the converter to the switched line isn't going to work for me. ? I will measure the current draw out of the car and if the 12 to 3 conversion loss isn't too bad i may proceed.

Bummer, i forgot to select the "Notify me of replies" button and the edit feature doesnt bring it back so here is another post.

I was just going to start a new thread but was not able to in the Accessories and Modifications section to ask this exact question. I have installed my garage door remote in the trim piece that easily prys off the center of the overhead console. I am frustrated by having to replace the battery and i also used a very small button from the remote's circuit board to actuate it. I drilled a very small hole and mounted it flush. It looks very nice because you cant really see it as the button head is the same color as the panel. Unfortunately, I have a hard time finding it in the dark. So i have decided to do a couple modifications. I would like to add a 12V to 3V step down off a switched power line and would prefer it come from the overhead center console like the OP. Note that my van is the Titanium trim and I have the glass roof and the auto wipers. There is certainly power up there. I also hope to install a new button that has an LED ring so i will need switched power for that as well.

awesome. looking forward to the details

Thank you very much. Funny thing is, about a cup of fluid came out and I have only added about 3.8 l of fluid. I looked at my obdii tool and it only provides codes and the ability to clear them.