Timbo

I'm not suggesting that I wouldn't change the filter if I dropped the pan. Once the pan is out there's no reason not to. I'm just saying that once the plug is installed, oil changes would be a lot easier to do because you wouldn't have to do either of those first steps / procedures (pan drop - filter change). So the TC doesn't come with synthetic ATF from the factory? I thought the Mercon LV was synthetic. =/ Well, whatever. If I'm only draining 3 quarts out of the bottom of the pan, I'm replacing it with whatever the rest is composed of (Mercon LV).

Thanks for the tip! Do spark plugs come in different lengths? The TC is the first car I've owned where the plugs are deep down inside a hole with a long, rubber plug that connects to them. This means the plugs have to be a particular length so the rubber boot at the top of the hole seat properly against the top to seal out water and debris. I'm don't mean to look a gift horse in the mouth, but I'm a little curious why these plugs are only $3.39 each instead of $10 each like the OEM plugs.

Quite a long time ago, I know, but how did installing a drain plug on the TC go? I'm about to drop the pan on my 2010 TC and I'm considering the drain plug idea. Both the dealership and an independent shop I called said they wouldn't drop the pan or change the filter at all. Instead they simply pump 16 quarts of ATF through the system. If the Ford dealer doesn't think changing the filter is necessary, then a drain plug would make future oil changes a lot easier.

Holy bankruptcy, Batman! When did spark plugs start costing $10 each?! My question is, do I have to run the plugs the dealer recommends, or can I run whatever I like (that fits the manufacturers requirements)? Many (many) years ago I read that spark plugs, unless physically damaged, don't actually go bad. If you clean them, they're good as new. Back then I had a really nifty spark plug cleaner you attached to an air compressor that use a non-conductive abrasive to clean the plug. It was great! Being the cheapskate that I am, I'm having a hard time coming to grips with $10 plugs. Assuming you do your own repairs / service like I do, what plugs are you folks running in your TC's?

Not sure I can post photos anymore. Not since Photobucket screwed its customers by trying to extort $400 a year out of them.

I took it to the Ford dealer, and they said it was a "door ajar switch". Problem is, the only door ajar switches are located in the sliding doors. The front door sensors are integrated into the door latch / lock system, so they're no individually replaceable. It seems hard to believe that a faulty switch on one of the sliding doors could be "set off" by opening the right - front passenger door, but I guess anything is possible. I'm going to try replacing one or both of the sliding door switches and see if that fixes the issue.

I found the problem. There's a single bolt at the base of the steering shaft, hidden behind a white, plastic shield, that was loose, just as I expected. Not wanting to drop the rack and pinion system just to tighten the single bolt, I drilled a hole in the shield just large enough to get a socket on an extension through, and tighten the bolt.

Oops, been gone a while. Yes, it was the switch. Instead of replacing it, and this is going to sound crazy, I took it completely apart and soaked / scrubbed everything in hot, soapy water. Hey, it worked!

So I'm the only one, huh?

I guess I'm the only then?

Thanks for confirming my suspicion that the console needs to be removed. btw... The link to the Connect workshop manual tried very hard to give my laptop a virus.

This really more of an annoyance than an issue, though I suppose it could eventually turn into a problem. It's been a year since I noticed it and it hasn't worsened. I've got some free-play/slop in the steering wheel of my 2010 Transit Connect. Measured at the rim I get 3/4 of an inch. This is not the sort of free play that would suggest a problem with the tie-rod ends, but an actual free movement of the steering wheel that has zero effect on changing the direction of travel. ​The engine doesn't have to be running. It is a free movement of the wheel resulting in no physical contact between the teeth on the rack and the pinion gear, or somewhere in-between. I bought the van used from the "Ford Store" in Morgan Hill, Ca. and one of the things listed replaced was the steering system, though they couldn't tell me why (Hmmm). Does anyone else have this issue? I've never tried turning the wheel on another TC. Maybe the all do this.

Besides my front-right window not going down, I'm having an issue with the doors unlocking and the interior lights coming on while the van is moving, or moreover and completely understandably, when it first starts moving. 99.9% of the time, the culprit is the right-front door itself. If I open the right-front door, chances are pretty darn good the van won't lock when I close the door, at least not until I've slammed the right door a few times. This suggests to me that the front door sensor is faulty. Thing is, I don't always have to open the front door for this to happen, though usually that's the cause, and that's got me puzzled. ​Besides being annoying and making me worry I'll shatter the window if I repeatedly slam the door (that happened many years ago on my '63 Falcon van), I fear the issue will worsen and the doors will unlock themselves when the van is in a parking lot with me far away from it. Has anyone had this problem before, and if so, what was the culprit?

I'm having an issue with my 2010 Transit Connect. Well two actually, if you count my not being able to find a shop manual for it! Why doesn't anyone make a good old-fashioned paper manual I can scribble notes in and dog-ear the pages?? Because I don't have a shop manual, I can't figure out how to remove the window switch that's located on the console between the front seats without breaking it. I don't want to force it, something I'm famous for, because I don't want to break anything. It looks like it should just pop out with a little "careful" prying. I'm pretty sure it's the switch and not the regulator that's keeping the right window from going down, because if I can get the window to go down, it *always* comes back up. Also, if I punch the switch a few times, it tends to help, suggesting it's the switch, or the connector plug, that's the problem and not the regulator. A quick Google Image search reveals small tabs holding the switch in place. Can I simply pry the switch out from above, or do I need to remove the console to access the tabs?

I'm still running the stock hubcaps, but continue thinking about adding aluminum wheels just to spice it up a bit. Problem is, I'd end up with useless stock, steel wheels I couldn't give away. I've tried selling stock rims before, but nobody wants them. A recycling center was my only option. Did anyone every figure out the correct offset for the TC?

Never mind. I built my camper kit a few months ago, keeping it as simple and easy to remove as possible. I'm very happy with the results.

Those wheels look nice. Les Schwab, huh? I just passed by one of those on my way through Willits, Ca. this morning. I should have stopped.

Then again. I sent Trevor at fordpartsuk an email, asking about the little hub caps, and this was his response. :( Hi Can you provide the reg? Can you identify the Wheel cap design fitted? None of the options are held on by the wheel nuts though I suspect you may require the Full wheel trim Best Regards Trevor www.fordpartsuk.com

Thanks for the tip!

Cool, thanks! I'll take a look. Can someone provide a link to where I can order a set of these caps?

Turns out I can't mount the center caps after all. My stock wheels don't have the little "ears" or tabs in the center that hold the cap in place (oh well). I was looking at aluminum wheels but I'm not sure what size to get. I read, on this site, something about how tire selection with 15" wheels is very slim. Apparently we have to run special tires on these things, and they can be hard to find in the stock 15" size. Maybe I'll just live with the stock wheels and find another use for the money I save...... I can put a lot of gas in this thing with the $500 I'll save not buying wheels.

I'm looking at Drag DR-33 wheels in black 15X7". They're a 7-spoke design. Should look pretty good on my white cargo van. America's Tire sells them for $100 a wheel, plus $45 for a lug nut set (all 4 wheels).

Turns out they're made by CR Laurence, and no, you don't have to replace the doors if you have a cargo van. They slide open and have a plastic screen to keep bugs out. I've tested mine for leaks and have found none. Not sure if I'm allowed to post links, but this is close to what I have. http://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-HTW20043-Horizontal-Sliding/dp/B002CXEXVK My windows are 25" by 15" and are made of tempered glass. I hope this helps.