lowspeedpursuit

For an AP800, you might already be hosed if they haven't sent you a 5th component that goes between the computer and the pedal, the "interface module". Frankly, I don't deal with wreckers who operate like that. I get it: if your vehicle has the same kit installed, and one component fails, you buy that one component. But if I explain to the guy that I'm doing a full swap, and can he price out a full donor system as I describe it, and he says no, he isn't getting any of my money piecemeal. They won't sell you the harness, and the pigtail isn't cut off in the computer? What are they doing with it at that point? In any event, if you do have the interface module, you can try to find pictures of the pigtails and work off the wire colors. Or try and call the guys who made it in Australia. Good luck!

Per your link, there are 4 parts: computer, controls, wiring, and "t-harness" directly to the vehicle-specific DBW accelerator. Googling the model # brings up some manuals, and it doesn't seem terribly complicated. No idea how accurate this all is for a UK 1st-gen Transit Connect installation: Per https://www.net-import.dk/images/liteon-ap900c-en-manual.pdf p3: Per https://carandcamp.com/media/pdf/22/20/c3/Einbauanleitung_Dometic_Kabelsatz_MS880_9101400041.pdf p20: Per US 2010 Wiring Diagrams:

No, there's no shield further back under the engine bay. Maybe I'm more of a truck guy, but I think of full shields as being a relatively recent development to improve aero as manufacturers care more about MPG. In any event, IIRC what you're looking at, "Lower air deflector", should clip into the wheel-well liner "fender splash shields" via an intermediate triangle-shaped piece "front splash shield". As with most Ford parts 10+ years old, the easiest and cheapest way to sort it is to grab everything at once from a u-pull-it, if your area still has one.

I've never had PATS issues with my van, so I'm actually not sure; I'm just an active user with the 1st-gen shop manuals. My first inclination would be to play around in Forscan, search their forums, reach out to support, and see if they might have a solution. After that I would call a Dealer, with the expectation they probably can't help, and would charge a ton if they could. Last option is a mobile locksmith with an actual chip programmer. If you can, please post back with how things work out, for reference.

To add on, I've read originally XLT was an initialism for "eXtra Luxurious Truck". That's kind of been lost over the years; now it's generally one step above base, and other higher trim levels have been added, making them the actual "luxury" options. The alternative to XLT is XL which, in this context, is just what Ford calls the base trim level. It doesn't stand for anything. One of the most common and easy-to-spot differences between XL/XLT, which should apply to 1st-gen TCs, is plain black vs body color-matched bumpers.

EDIT: Fixed the missing pictures before I start my next project. Although, if the site's gonna stay broken indefinitely (it's been what, 3 months?), I guess it doesn't really matter. ----- Replaced the driver's front door lock/latch assembly, following up on problems with the ajar switch and locking. Used the SMP DLA855, and solved most of the problems I was having. Install isn't terribly complicated, but there are a lot of steps. You're supposed to unplug the battery or pull the fuse to prevent the power locks from going off while you work on it. 12 screws hold the door card: 3 each on the left, right, and bottom edges, one behind a trim button in the inside lever, and two behind the pull handle. Edges are phillips, interior are T20. You also need to disconnect the mirror switch by prying up under the arrow. Three 8mm bolts hold the left window guide in place, which you can set aside without removing it from the door: You need to remove the manual lock cylinder. Slide out the big clip that secures it against the door skin and insert the key. Hold it unlocked, press in the highlighted button with a screwdriver, and release the key. The button will stay pressed in, and rotating the key towards locked will rotate the entire cylinder, which removes from the outside. Then, pry open the green clamp and separate the outside handle rod from the latch assembly: At this point, the only things holding the latch assembly in place are the 3 T30 screws on the edge of the door, the inside lever cable, and the power lock wiring. The other end of the cable is removed by prying the gray tab up out of the way, locking the door, and popping the cable end out of the manual lock button: And that's pretty much it for a remove/replace. I also had to replace the return spring in my inside lever, which had snapped off at some point. In order to remove the spring, you need to drill out the riveted rod that holds the assembly together, but doing it this way saves $30 over buying Dorman 82175 (plus you're not relying on Dorman). I measured a left-hand torsion spring with 5-6 coils, the surviving leg 1" long, and IIRC an ID of .31" and wire dia .05". It's not an exact match, but I bought a pack of 9271K639 from McMaster Carr. It comes with 2" legs. You want to cut 1/2" off the "bottom" leg that will be retained by the housing, and 1" off the "top" leg that will move with the lever. A random machine screw and cap nut replaced the riveted rod. I believe the size is #4. So that works pretty well. The tension is stronger than stock, and I'll see how it holds up over time. It's possible the spring is over-wound. Finally, inside the latch assembly and speculation on how mine failed. To access the lock mechanism gearbox, you remove 6 T15 screws. The one highlighted is the short one. To get to the ajar switch, you need to remove the entire gearbox, which requires bending the 5 tabs out of the way and removing the cover over where the manual lock cylinder engages: With the cover off the gearbox, you can see the back of the ajar switch. With the gearbox removed, you can carefully flip it upside-down (you might want to put the cover back on to hold the gears). Deep-cleaning this switch stopped my door from reading ajar, turning on the dome light, and refusing to lock when it was actually closed. Note that rebuilding the assembly, including reattaching the gearbox, requires moving all the different parts into the right positions to accept the next part that fits into them. The lever that actuates the ajar switch is kind of tricky. Unfortunately, cleaning the ajar switch didn't make my door lock and unlock reliably. Didn't matter if I replaced the worm gear motor, either. I believe this is down to the return-to-center rotary spring for the big gear failing. I went over the details in maso1888's thread. With my old assembly, you could feel the tension from the gears not returning-to-center if you tried to actuate the locks manually after using power locks, and slamming or tapping on the door would free up the gears and it would work again. The new assembly works about 90% of the time so far. When it still fails to lock, the cable isn't bound up like it used to be, so I'm honestly not sure what's going on, but I did forget to unhook the battery, which has made the locks behave erratically in the past. It's infinitely better than it was, so frankly I'm not going to fuck with it.

Finally had a chance to get out to the shop. Always assumed the beep was factory, but it's obviously not. No provision for it on the wiring diagrams, either. Power wire appears to go up into the taillight fixture, like Fifty150 said. Pic of the label is kind of washed out, but it's a Magnadyne BU2000C.

2010 Cargo here. It had a backup beep when I got it, which I immediately disabled. Speaker up on the underside of the body, somewhere behind the left corner of the rear bumper. IIRC it was one wire and grounded to the body. Never bothered to investigate what powered it, but I'm doing some work on the van tomorrow anyway, so I'll look into it. I think I have the window cage off my right slider if you want it for just shipping. It was mounted with self-tappers into the sheet metal. You'd probably be able to make out cheaper and get both cages at a local junkyard, though.

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My driver's front stopped locking reliably last month, and it seemed to be the ajar switch since the dome light would also come on randomly until you slammed the door a few times. You can pull the latch / lock actuator out, take it apart, and clean the ajar detection switch with electronics cleaner, which stopped my light from coming on, but in my case the locks didn't actually start working any better. It's kind of hard to explain without pictures, so I'll post some when I have a weekend free, but basically there's a bellcrank that physically actuates the lock, and it can be gear-driven by the electronic locks, or pushed manually by the driver's lock switch via cable. There's a rotary spring on top of one gear that returns the bellcrank to a neutral position after locking or unlocking. When this spring wears out, the bellcrank stays at the end of its travel, with the geartrain tight against the motor for the electronic locks. The lock system struggles to overcome this tension, so the locks "don't work" the next time you try them. Long story short, the latch / lock actuator in 1st-gens is massively overcomplicated and will eventually break down for one reason or another, and costs a small fortune to replace. Rockauto has SMP DLAxxx aftermarket replacements for ~$200 instead of Ford's ~$400, and right now there's limited stock on sale for ~$140. Whenever this comes up, I would clean the ajar switch (or manual bypass if that sounds like too much work), but with the understanding that the entire actuator might not be long for this world.

From the 2010 shop manual: NOTE: If the IC or the PCM is being replaced (or both), the parameters must be reset in both modules or the vehicle experiences a PATS no-start ... Refer to Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) Parameter Reset in this section. When the parameters in the IC are reset, it clears (erases) the PCM ID from the IC. A PCM parameter reset causes the PCM to send a PCM ID to the IC that is necessary for the system to operate ... If only a PCM parameter reset occurs, the ID stored in the IC does not match the ID being sent by the PCM, and may cause a PATS-related no-start. Since a new PCM will have a new ID, and you need to reset both PCM (to send the ID) and IC (to accept it), and resetting the IC deletes all stored keys and requires you add them again, I would assume that when tech #2 "reset everything and programmed 2 keys", he did all of that, but it wouldn't hurt to double-check. ----- EDIT: I had another thought after I typed this out: in your original post, you said you only had one key. Also from the manual: There must be at least 2 keys programmed into the IC in this type of PATS before the vehicle starts. When I got my van, I also only had one key. Because it was more than 10 years old, Ford (dealer and corporate) was catastrophically unhelpful on how to get new Tibbe keys cut, whether any SKC / Security Code / programming key exists, or how to acquire it. When I hired a mobile locksmith to make me another key, he cloned my existing key's immobilizer chip, rather than programming another. My understanding is that as a result, my two keys only count as one "unique" key for PATS purposes. If your locksmith was similarly only capable of cloning, it's possible that when he reset everything, you only ended up with one "unique" key in the system, which won't start because it insists on having two "unique" keys programmed. Ultimately, I would ask the 2nd tech if he parameter reset both the PCM and IC, and if he was able to program two "unique" keys into the system. If he did everything right and you have no codes or wiring issues, etc., I would look into replacing the instrument cluster.

I've never worked with PATS, but did the second guy confirm the IC has the correct ID for the new PCM? The troubleshooting flowchart for PATS stuck on is really short: check for codes and follow up on them, reset everything, and then replace the instrument cluster.

I sometimes replicate factory colors (A/C I added on my truck is purple, for example) but I don't think it's a huge deal. Red is hot, black is ground. I also treat yellow as hot, since it's used for const. +12v in radios and ignition switches. Anything else is just whatever wire I have available in the right size. I always seem to have a lot of green laying around. I want to note, I don't love brown for hot. Brown is ground for German manufacturers, so if you ever work on a VW or something, it's easy to get turned around.

The "correct" answer is to find a TC identical to yours in every way except having factory front fogs, run the VIN through https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt/, and determine which half-byte is different. The other way is trial-and-error, making extremely sure to back up anything before you change it. Forscan will sometimes report a failure to write if you try to change something that can't be changed. You also can't necessarily assume the byte you want lives in IC. Per my manuals, the GEM is also involved in fog light operation. Dicking around with it just now, the 9th digit in the first GEM address, 726-01-01, has an effect on my rear fog indicator. I have rear fogs only (front were apparently not offered in US 2010) and my stock value is 9. A junkyard 2011 listing front fogs shows a stock value of D. Setting my value to D doesn't seem to change how the indicator functions, but setting it to 0 forces it to stay on permanently. If yours is also 9 now, setting it to D is the first thing I would try. Otherwise, you'll need to keep playing around with it. If you're not already familiar with how AS-BUILT works, the last byte in every address functions as a checksum calculated by adding together the values of all other bytes, plus the address with a leading 0, and discarding any overflow. So, since 9x -> Dx means adding 4, you need to add 4 to the first half-byte of the checksum as well. Forscan will also fail to write if you get this wrong. I doubt I can help you any more precisely than that. My 2010 cluster doesn't even seem to have a front fog indicator I could try to activate.

A/C isn't as bad as some people make it out to be, but Chip is right that it takes special tools. If you aren't empty from the leak, you have to go to a shop anyway to pull the refrigerant. If you are empty, you need line disconnect tools, manifold gauges, a can tap, and a vacuum pump. Legally, you're also supposed to have an EPA 609 license. On top of the line you're replacing, you'll need ~2 cans of new refrigerant and a new dryer, which has to be replaced when you open the system, plus a little bit of PAG oil to put in it. If we say the line is $40, dryer $30, disco tools $15, gauges $50, pump $100, tap $10, new gas $20, oil $15, and license $20, you can call it $300 worth of shit to make it happen. In a general sense, replacing a line isn't that difficult. Exactly what's in the way depends on which line you broke. The dryer (and the low-side port) are in the passenger wheel well, so you need to pull the liner to get in there, at least.

No pics for this one, just a PSA: if the cylinder head temp sensor fails, it also locks out the A/C, which was new for me as somebody who's only driven older vehicles. I'd been getting extended crank times for a couple weeks, and wasn't sure why. After a medium-sized road trip, got P1289 "Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range". Ordered the sensor since it was cheap, cleaned the plug, and reset the code. Next day, the code came back, temp gauge stopped working, and I noticed the A/C was also out. Thought I had two separate problems, but later that night I noticed the rad fans were screaming, locked at full speed even at normal engine temp. I guess when the computer can't tell engine temp, it takes really aggressive steps to prevent overheating, which also includes locking out the A/C. Replacing the sensor not only cleared the code, fixed the temp gauge, and let the fans spin at normal speed, but allowed the A/C to work again as well.

I have "Ranger" and TC wheels in my basement, and that offset-based stickout estimate might even be a little low. B23 wheels also spec a 12mm offset, and I'm measuring 3⅝" stickout. 1st-gen TC steelies I'm measuring 1⅜" stickout, so that's a 2¼" actual increase. No direct answer on bearings, but since I have one sitting on my bench, I can also tell you the rear spindle dia. is 1.45", if you want to cross-shop bearings with that number.

Thanks! I hadn't either, and one of the cooler guys at Autozone refunded my $10. Didn't get to relax until later last night. Went to do the belt, which is pretty straightforward and well-documented across the web, and the 15mm nub on the tensioner failed, so that was a surprise $52 expense. Also made some additions to the back for day trips to the woods on a "Walmart special" budget. Got a really comfy "cot"-size trifold that fits behind the seats and takes up less width than the full-size air mattress, and hung a screen curtain in the back doors to keep the bugs out. Haven't decided how to trim it yet, so for now the extra height is folded over at the top and fastened to the headliner. Gonna try and fab a small fan to slot into the sliding window, and throw some pictures up when it's all squared away.

After getting code P0132 "O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage", not finding any vac leaks, and deciding it was due anyway as I approach 90k miles, I'm back to complain about the Duratec upstream O2 sensor. In summary: fuck this thing. You'd think it's super easy, right? It's right there sticking off the back of the motor, near the top: But when you put an O2 sensor socket on it, it hits those heater hoses behind it, and there's nowhere to swing a wrench. I found out later they make an O2 sensor crow's foot, but honestly the thing was welded in there so tight I can't imagine any split socket would do the job. I cut most of the sensor off with a hacksaw and used a normal socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet with a cheater bar, and it still took like an hour. It came out looking like this. New sensor wouldn't thread in, either, because clearly the old one obliterated the threads on the way out. So I go to Autozone and spend $10 on an O2 sensor tap, and it immediately eats itself as well: To the tap's credit, it did unfuck the situation enough to install the new O2 sensor and save me from having to pull the manifold, but holy shit. In summary: if your upstream O2 goes out on a 1st-gen, consider just selling the van and getting something else.

I'm not sure of that, no. I've never had trouble with my door ajar detection and needed to mess with the wiring to bypass; I just have the shop manuals. You can see in the diagrams that the switches are all labeled "Ajar", but the front door switches are shown closed and the sliders and rear are shown open. To me that implies that the rears should be grounded to read "closed", but it's possible the manual is wrong, or the shown position of the switch is not significant.

I don't know anything about the newer vans per se, but that's a generic aftermarket toggle switch. If you google '22 TC gauges, you can see it's not in any of the pictures. On a used vehicle, the only way to figure out what something like that does it to trace the wires. On a new '22, I would ask the dealer, then share some choice words about drilling holes in my dashboard to install weird shit. Not a terrible-looking install, at least.

Without actually pulling one out, the removable bolts seem to be W500311-S437, M8x40. I would take one of the bolts you still have to the hardware store with you to confirm. The two retained bolts are W500312, but the manual just says they're "longer".

Wait, really? I don't have a 2nd-gen, but Tasca, etc. list common 2nd-row captain's chairs, but distinguish the 60/40 bench by wheelbase. SWB lists part suffixes J+S, and LWB is N+U. I thought SWB seats "clicked" into these bars, and LWB bolted directly to the floor with their own brackets. Is that wrong?

I can't speak to what the bottom of the SWB seats look like, but resources on this site do seem pretty clear that it's prohibitively difficult to convert between SWB/LWB seats. So, I would just start with ads that explicitly indicate the seats came from an SWB van, or have exterior pictures showing an SWB van. It's pretty common for the junkyard vehicles listed on car-part.com to have exterior shots, or something like the door jamb sticker that shows the VIN. Parts catalog confirms '14-'18 should interchange. When you think you've got a good one, call to confirm. If you can't find one nearby that's explicitly SWB, switch to the ads that don't list wheelbase or have pictures, and make the same call (e-mail, whatever) to ask for more details.