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You're replying to my question about what year/model. My van is a 2015 Cargo, similar to your 2018. See the link below for a discussion about sound proofing. Also consider adding in a storage hatch in the foot well area if that's not on your mod list. It's great having the extra place to stash things. There are multiple threads discussing this mod besides the one below. Good luck!

Depends on your climate you're planning to protect for, but if you're going to camp in high temperature climates there's definitely a case to be made for minimal/lower R-value insulation over too much/higher R-value. Not to mention not wanting to encroach too much on the limited living space. Basically, it's easier to warm up with a heater in a cooler climate than it is to cool down the inside air, but more importantly, all of the metal surfaces, which after a hot day which can hinder getting to sleep. I'm not really convinced that stuffing insulation in-between channels really does all that much due to the heat transfer from conduction of the various metal structures that typically extend beyond the stuffed areas.That said, I've found it important to, at the very least, cover what metal surfaces you can with carpeting, especially near the areas where you are sleeping (think radiating cold metal at night). I went with a combination of 3M Thinsulate of varying thicknesses for different areas, cheap expanded foam I could cut up and use in some areas too that you'd get for quick flooring in the garage or whatever. I also used a reflectix equivalent when I could maintain an air gap or insulation barrier to help retain radiant heat from the propane heater. Also came across a different insulation product that looked interesting after my build which looks easy to use with self-adhering properties that might be worth checking out if you can source it: http://www.armacell.us/products/aparmaflexsaaparmaflexfssa-duct/

Thanks BONE. For sound proofing, I used two layers per the mfg recommendations. For the ceiling and doors (sliders and rear), I used Kilmat 50mil butyl sheets (one 50sft ft box) as a lightweight option. The Noico 80mil butyl sheet material was my first choice but after feeling how heavy the sheets are, I switched to the Kilmat 50, which are much lighter than the Noico 80. I used the Noico 80mil (one 36sq ft box) for the cargo area flooring and also the rear upper side panels. The second layer for all surfaces was Noico 150mil liner sold in rolls, which provides a combination of sound proofing and insulation (two 36sq ft boxes). It's now in 170mil rolls. Buy the Noico roller and expect to spend a lot of time doing the install. The ceiling work is tiring working above your head. As I said above, I'm not sure the sound proofing on the flooring areas is very effective. After I removed the rubber cargo mat I fitted a 5/8" sheet of ext grade plywood. Since the bed of the cargo area has numerous ridges and pockets, I separated the foam liner from the rubber mat and used the foam as a liner under the plywood and is good for leveling. That offered very good sound proofing from road noise. The sound proofing on the ceiling, doors and rear side panels is very helpful. The only noticeable noise I pick up now is from the slider panels that I painted. I need to work on that. Another poster added a thin layer of liner used for wood flooring installs to the panel and that seemed to work out nicely.