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You need a computer scan, that will help pin point where the issue lies. Just replacing parts is not the way to go. The fact It is a flood vehicle will add to the possible issues. good luck

Finally done and all is in-place. Pictures added to link above. If I would have done anything different, it would have been to mount it about an inch rearward. It was kind of a pain getting the front headliner back in place and I had to trim it in several places to go around screw holes and the wiring. Had it been back so the screen was right at the line, I wouldn't have had to do that. All that really means is if I need to take it down or replace it that there's a bigger mess hiding. To go back to nothing would mean replacing both the front and rear headliner. Either way, the screen is bright and plenty visible from all rear seats. The custom adaption of the overhead console and mounting the screen were really all the hard parts. I didn't take any pictures of the wiring other than the small auxillary fuse box I ziptied up behind the glove box for the constant/fused power. I figured if you don't understand how to wire these up a few pictures of wire aren't going to help, just double check know which wires are constant/switched and it's fairly easy altogether. I used a line ran back to the rear fuse panel by the taillight, with an add-a-fuse to get the switched power for he head unit. I didn't bother with removing any rear trim, I just tucked it along under the panels and all the way to the passenger footwell, then up the a-pillar like the other lines. The head-unit then provides the switched power to the screen when turned on. The power lines are all ran along the edge of the rooflines, behind the passenger a-pillar, to behind the glovebox, following the factory harness and using the same clips. There's plenty of room in the existing clips due to them being like alligator mouths that you just stuff the wires into. I ran the RCA video cables around the driver side. A 2m length cable is just perfect length to go around and leave enough to connect. One product I can whole heartedly recommend after never using it before is cloth wire tape "Tesa Black High Heat Wire Loom Harness Tape" It sticks like a madman and because it's cloth I don't have to worry about it rattling against the sheet-metal like with regular pvc electrical tape or even shrink-wrapping. In one of my last pictures where I tacked up the factory harness to the front crossmember, there is really plenty of room there for wires without worry. The headliner sits a good inch or more back from that area. In one of the last few pictures, I show that there is very good access to the wiring with the main shelf installed, but with the filler-plate that is in front of the sunglasses-holder removed. This let me fully insert the head-unit into it's sleeve, hook up the wires, then lastly, slide the whole head-unit and clip-in trim back and clip it in to place. I did only have it up with 2 screws, one at the far right front and in the driver grab-handle. This let me flex it a little to get it back and in position before clipping it down. Note though that you need to remove that filler plate first before having the head-unit up because you need to unclip it from the rear to get it out but it goes back in easy after clipping on the microphone, which is the only thing behind it. Links don't seem to be working for me today, but my parts list, some from Amazon, some from Ebay, just depended upon pricing for each item. Power Acoustik PD344 DVD Receiver - Not top-quality, mostly with the wiggly RCA ports on the back, but is fairly fast and reads dvds which is all I really wanted. I had monster-brand RCA cables with the spiral cut connectors that grip very tight and it actually pulled one of the jacks out of the back of the unit. I got it back together with some glue but with this unit definitely avoid tight cables. I slightly opened up the monster cable ends and they were fine after that though. I'd highly recommend the Ugreen brand cables as well, used them for plenty of things in the past. Xtrons 13.3" 1080p screen (CM133HDGrey) - Good quality, but mine has a defect where the FM transmitter only outputs left-channel audio. they said I could send it back, but it's already installed so I'm not going to bother. 90% of the listening is done over the IR headphones and the kids don't care about only left-channel audio. It is plenty loud, and only has minor static. The IR headphones also have minor static but I haven't had a setup with them that didn't. Metra 99-9000 Universal DIN Mount PSZACCEPS051H Fuse Box Mini-Fuse Add-a Circuit 2m RCA Video Cord ( I bought a component video cable as they were very cheap compared to ones branded for A/V) 8 gauge wire and various wiring terminals and a 20A inline fuse holder to the engine. 14 gauge wire from Fuse Box and Rear Aux to accessories, appropriate fuses. A few extra wire ties/body clips for running lines from A-pillar to overhead console. Let me know if you have any questions.

Those don't cover 2014 and up...