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As some have noted, there is no switch to turn on all the interior lights on newer TCs. This modification will allow you to turn them on with a separate switch. Opening a door turns on all the lights, so I added a switch that activates the same circuit. You can easily turn on the lights and the van thinks you have opened the driver's door. It works well and the only hitch is you get a "door ajar" message on the message center. This is not a complete step by step but it covers the tricky parts. The most difficult thing will be removing the door panel without breaking any tabs or pins. You should have a panel removal tool (or tools). There are dozens on Amazon for under $20. You may also want to buy some spare clips for the door panels. Several are tough to reach even with the tool and you may break one .https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489722168&sr=8-1&keywords=W713297-S300 Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle. It pulls straight out. Pry at the spot noted to avoid breaking any tabs. Remove the small panel behind the door latch Remove the door panel and unlatch the door handle Here is the wiring diagram. I used a pushbutton switch. This type of switch needs to be latching. You can use a rocker or toggle switch that has a normally closed terminal. The switch will be normally closed and open when the lights are turned on. The lights go off when the switch goes back to closed. I also used a lighted switch so I had to connect power for the light. The light is not necessary so only do it if you like the look. ***see diagram below*** Here is the power for the lighted switch. It is tied to the light for the door lock buttons. I used posi-lock connectors for this connection. The switch is wired to the door module. Pin 14 is cut and the switch is inserted. Here is the door module with the wire already cut. The wire had green paint on a black wire. Another view of the cut wiring I wired the switch using a modular pigtail that plugs in (for door panel removal in the future). These connections were soldered. The wire was dressed with Tesa cloth tape (I love this stuff). The Tesa tape prevents rattles and will not get gooey with age like some electrical tape. https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489723291&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape The finished product. The switch light is always on just like the lights on the door switches. But I can't see it from the driver's seat (hence the uselessness of the light). You will get the alarm chime and message when you turn on the lights, but they work fine (just like opening a door while driving). Of course I insulated the door panel with theromozite and it gives the door a solid feel and dampens road noise. Insulating takes less than 1 hr per door and I highly recommend it. Use spay on adhesive to apply.

And now for something completely different... Our 2012 TC Cargo has had it's right rear brake lamp go out. All other lights work, as do all of the left rear lamps. The bulb tested OK, but replaced it with new anyway. Still no joy when pedal depressed. Put the VOM on it, and no 12V to the socket. Reseated the wiring harness connector (inside was clean and not corroded), no joy. No evident cable or wiring abrasion. And as I said, the left side is perfectly happy. Anyone else seen this behavior? Would love to have a full schematic to follow where the voltage drops off from the switch to whatever to the rear right lamp assembly. Thank you in advance to anyone with ideas.

Does anyone know what the bottom bulbs in the tail do? My new-to-me 2012 has these and I tried everything to get them to operate. They have no power to the terminals, blue and black wires.

I just bought a used 2011 Transit Connect, got it home, and realized the switch is missing between the reading lights above the dash. No switch, just a spring inside. Currently it must be switched to OFF because the cargo lights don't come on whether the doors are open or closed. I've searched the internet for a replacement but can't find one (so far). Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

I have enjoyed the use of my Transit Connect for five years and in the "RPM x 1000 meter" above the clock is a LED. This used to flash every five seconds or so and I assumed that it was some sort of dummy alarm. A day ago the light no longer flashed but remained on constantly. Can anyone tell me what this means? Everything else seems to be ok in the car and in the "user's manual" it is shown but no indication can be found telling what it is for. Thanks Big Bank 2017 01 07 16:36 GMT

So I had an oil change and now my right turn signal is flashing twice as fast as the left. o.O What the heck?