BSJBSJ

Another bummer. I was having intermittent troubles with the fob locking and unlocking the doors. Turns out that the LED bulb in the Dome light completely blocks the fob! I thought maybe the locks were on a timer or something for "safety". I only had the van for a couple days before adding the LEDs so I didn't realize the light being off had anything to do with the non-functioning locks. D'oh!

These are the LEDs that worked for me. They do dim as they are going off... Dome (DO NOT USE blocks fob signal!) AmazonSmile: Phinlion 194 LED Red Super Bright Wedge 168 2825 175 T10 15-SMD 4014 Chipsets LED Replacement Bulbs for Car Side Marker Dome Map Reading Courtesy Tail License Plate Lights: Automotive Cargo area. AmazonSmile: Alla Lighting CANBUS 211-2 578 LED Bulbs Super Bright 41mm 42mm Festoon 3030 SMD 212-2 569 6413 LED Lights Bulb for Interior Map, Dome, Trunk, Step Courtesy, License Plate Lights, Pure Red: Automotive I added a, used off Ebay, second OEM incandescent fixture to the drive's side that is powered from the dome light. I use red lights to save my night vision when I'm doing Astronomy. The above LEDs are almost too bright! I put tape on the end of the dome light so that the side lights are the only ones illuminated. I may need to turn the rear lights around backwards to lessen their brightness as well. I also like being able to just have one illuminate if I override the dome and second rear light with the three-way switch. Now to tackle the approach lights via forscan... Fingers crossed!

I figured out the way to do it. The second wire has to be attached to the middle copper colored piece. I bent the thin little tab up and used an exacto knife to trim a small amount of plastic away from under that part, so that it wouldn't melt when I soldered the wire to the tab. For testing I clipped the new leads to the rear light and left it alone, after closing the doors for 10, 20, & 30 minutes. Didn't turn back on by itself. Fully installed it works like it should now. Automatically on with the doors and fade off or manually on or just off, like the dome light!

Bummer. I thought it would be easy to just make some splitter wires to power my added second OEM cargo area light from the dome light. But that didn't work... So I went looking for more info and found this thread. Guess I'm left with two cargo area lights sharing the some source. I've changed the incandescent bulbs to Red LEDs. Thought it would be good to have one in the rear that could be controlled from the front seat. But alas...

Did you ever find a solution for keeping the added light turned off?

Got the key cut today at Ace Hardware for free! Works too. But you have to hold the live fob very close to the naked dumb key to get it to register before it will start the engine. I hoped it would have more range... Not as convenient as I had hoped.

I couldn't find the blade by itself so I ordered a 'shell' off Ebay For Ford Transit Connect Replacement Key Keyless Remote Case Shell Uncut Blade | eBay I haven't received it yet, nor got it cut, so I can't say for 100% that it will work...

No I just want to have a key that isn't 4 5/8" long to start my van. I found an empty shell with an uncut blade for $13. I will get the blade cut and remove it from the shell, and attach that to my ring. I will still have the fob on my keychain so the chip will talk to the computer but everything will hang closer to the column. If needed, I can unlock my van with the Ford app.

Is there anywhere I could get just the Key part of a 2021 Connect made or purchased? I'd rather have the key and Fob/remote separate from each other on my Leatherman Super Tool key chain...

The external head is close to Ø.5". I just need to be slightly less than whatever the shank of the rivet is. Weaken it an pull what's left out of the hole in the door...

Did yours already have holes? What size where they? I don't want to drill the holes any bigger to get the rivets out...

I'm looking to tint the side windows of my new 2021 Cargo van. It appears the factory mounted screen is riveted on! Do I need to drill the rivets out or what to remove the screens? Is there a neat and tidy way to remount them?