69DropTop

Thanks to everyone for the replies and info! ?

Do you think the Triax fluid is better than the Motorcraft Mercon LV and maybe that is why it wasn't as dark the 3rd and 4th change? How often do you think the fluid should be changed, every 30k miles? I was thinking of doing as someone suggested and doing one drain and fill every oil change. I know one thing, I definitely don't want to wait 60k+ miles again. I was definitely nervous when I saw how dark the fluid was.

I am getting ready to download Forscan for my PC so I can read some trouble codes. Eventually I would like to do some reprogramming E.G. turn on the cruise functionality. What is a good or recommended OBD II adapter? I'm a shadetree mechanic and won't be using this much so I don't need or want to spend a lot of money to get the best available adapter.

I posted this in a thread about checking and changing the transmission but thought I would post in this thread also. I removed the full plug, it was full but the fluid was dark. I can't say for sure but I might have even seen a little sparkly on the paper towel. I am debating if it's even a good idea to flush the trans now because you hear people talking about when you put new fluid in a transmission with old bad fluid that it can cause the trans to go out. I was thinking of just going ahead and doing one drain and fill cycle, driving it, and then seeing what things look like. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Ok, I'll update the thread when I get a scanner that sees in the transmission

I removed the full plug, it was full but the fluid was dark. I can't say for sure but I might have even seen a little sparkly on the paper towel. I am debating if it's even a good idea to flush the trans now because you hear people talking about when you put new fluid in a transmission with old bad fluid that it can cause the trans to go out. I was thinking of just going ahead and doing one drain and fill cycle, driving it, and then seeing what things look like. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Awesome, thanks for the confirmation!

I'm trying to check the fluid on my 2017 in may end up cycling it out. I do not have the same level plug as in the pictures that I have seen so far in this thread. I'm guessing this bolt is the level bolt for mine. Can anyone confirm?

We were wondering about transmission or lock up feature of the torque converter. It does seem to do it more going uphills with steady throttle. Mine will also do it on flat ground or slight inclines, does your only do it going uphill?

The dielectric grease didn't do anything so I bought a bottle of seafoam fuel injector cleaner and put it in. I have since used about 2/3 of that fuel but it is still doing it. We were thinking possibly the crank sensor but it starts fine and has never stalled on me. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas on what to look at next?

Your radio looks nice, I'm sure it's much better than the factory radio. Yes, please let me know how your steering wheel swap goes and if your able to make the radio controls work. I have attached a picture of the same radio that I have.

Did you have to buy an adapter to make the radio fit the dash? If you are able to post a picture of it installed that would be awesome! I wouldn't mind upgrading my radio, especially if the steering wheel controls work!!

My mechanic friend came over and spent about 30 minutes looking at everything his tool would let him see with the engine running and not running. He couldn't come up with any codes and everything looked normal. We went for a test drive, it did the shudder thing but he didn't see anything and nothing came up on his tool when it shuddered. He said he is not able to plot with the tool he has. He did get a couple misfires when we were driving but this time on cylinder 2. We put some dielectric grease on all of the cop to spark plug connections but i haven't had a chance to drive again since then. He said it's likely a mechanical problem that the computer can't pickup. He suggested to start off by replacing the fuel filter, if it has one, then to run Sea Foam in the gas. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I was thinking also it would be best to drive around and log it rather than a quick scan with it at idle.

Jseda, Thanks for the info! I think I just have the base AM/FM radio; it does have AUX in but I bet that is standard. Do you still have the base AM/FM radio? It would be great if you could let me know how your steering wheel swap goes!!

Thanks again!! I was planning on checking on car-part.com when I had a chance to find a steering wheel.

Don, I appreciate the reply and info! 1.) I will probably go non-leather with cruise and radio controls if there is a chance I can turn the radio controls on- that would be awesome!! 2.) When you say assuming the wiring harness is there, do you mean steering wheel wiring harness or radio wiring harness? 3.) That stinks about Forscan! I was considering learning the Forscan software if I had time but that sounds like it might not be an option at this point. Since others have reported a delay in getting the license, I may just go ahead and put in for it now in case I do decide to use it it. Can Forscan be used on more than one vehicle? I live in Cincinnati OH and considered paying someone that is familiar with Forscan to program my TC. Thanks again

HI GBL, Thanks for the reply and info. I do not feel the shudder at idle, only when driving. It doesn't really affect drivability; it just shudders for about a second or less then drives like normal and might not shudder again for 10 minutes of driving. Ok, I'll have him rescan and see what it says. Fuel injector cleaner is a good idea! What is a good kind to use, Sea Foam? I guess I should use spray electronic cleaner to clean the MAF sensor?

I am looking to add cruise to my 2017 Connect and am going to start looking for a steering wheel. I have a couple questions: 1. Does it matter what year the steering wheel comes from? 2. Has anyone figured out if the steering wheel radio controls can be turned on if you have the base radio? I know nothing about Forscan so I will need to do some research on it. Honestly, I'm a little nervous to try and program the computer myself and thought about seeing what a dealer would charge.

I have a 2017 Transit Connect with the 2.5L engine. It has 63k miles on it. Recently it developed a stutter that just randomly happens. I don't have a check engine light but my neighbor did a scan on it with his new Snap On scanner with the engine running and at idle. It said cylinder 3 misfired 2 times while he was scanning it. This weekend, I replaced all of the spark plugs with Motorcraft replacements and the coil for cylinder 3 with a Motorcraft coil but it still does it. It might not be quite as bad with the new plugs but it's tough to say for sure because I only test drove it and did drive it for a full day of work yet. Is this a common problem these are known for and if so what is the cause? I was thinking it could possibly be the O2 sensor or may the MAF sensor needs cleaned? Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas?

Don,. thanks for the detailed explanation about Forscan! It sound like it's a little more complicated than I have currently time for so I'll see what the dealer would charged to activate the DRLs.

Zalien and Don, I appreciate the replies and info! I only had the van a short while before getting the backup key and programming it. I thought I saw DRLs but I could have been mistaken. I noticed there are little lights in the headlights that are off to the side that light up when the door is open. I was thinking these were the DRLs but from your posts they are not. I just looked at the window sticker and do not see any mention of DRLs. The only option I see is package 100A and I think that is just for the reverse sensing system and flex fuel. If possible, I would like to have DRLs, what is Forscan, can it turn on the DRL functionality? Thanks again!

Hello everyone, I bought a 2017 Connect a few weeks ago. I am pretty sure it has daytime running lights and I saw them on. A few days ago I noticed they weren't on. When I bought the van it only came with one key so I bought another one, had the dealer cut it and program the transponder portion of the key. They said they couldn't get the lock/unlock function to program on the key. I contacted the people I bought the key from. They gave me a couple programming methods to get the lock/unlock to work on my new key. I did the procedure and programmed the lock/unlock function on the key. Could I have messed up the DRLs somehow when I programmed the key fob? I searched around on the internet about turning on the DRLs and the only thing I found was to go into the menu and you can turn the DRLs on or off using the menu and the buttons on the steering wheel. My van is a basic XL and doesn't have any steering wheel buttons. Can anyone shed any light on this situation? Pun intended! ?