mbrint

Looks nice! I'm just starting on mine now. Good inspiration there.

I just insured mine as a regular van at the stock value. They never asked about the camper additions. I just figured I'd lose the value of the camper conversion if it got written off in an accident.

I just had the tema4x4 (Russian) 30mm lift put in as well as BFG AllTerrain KO2 tires and it looks pretty good! Lots of room for those bigger tires and plenty of ground clearance underneath.

I'm going to be installing the 30mm strut spacers and 215/65R16 BFG KO2's at the end of the month on mine. After getting the ECU updated (done a few months ago on my 2014), I can confirm that there are many tire size options on forscan and even one to input a custom size.

I tried to use those treaded inserts, but I found the locations weren't that convenient. I ended up using self-tapping sheet metal screws to attached 1x2" furring strips to the ribs of the van. Then I attached the panelling/sheets to them.

I was digging through his posts. He wrote this: "215/60 R15, Yokahama Geolander ... 3" front lift to level stance .. used 4WD Ford Escape front end suspension components ... Fabricated aluminum strut spacers ... hope that helps" Looks like not quite direct fit.

I removed the headliner in mine (1st gen) when I did the camper conversion. I recall using a forked automotive trim remover tool to pop those things out.

Thanks! Currently in the process of building a larger awning that comes off the roof racks to the side.

Mine did that when the driver's door closed sensor broke. The doors would lock, but then all automatically unlock. Does it make the key-in-ignition alarm when the doors are shut and the key is turn to the accessory position? You can disable the power locks by pulling the fuse until you figure out the problem with the power lock system

After pulling the lock out and taking it apart, I figured out the problem. One of the nylon teeth had broken on two of the gears in the power lock actuator. This caused the gears to become misaligned which caused the resistance with the interior locking tab and the key, and stopped the lock from functioning. A $15 replacement gear set from ebay fixed it rather than a new $520 actuator!

I built a folding shelf on one of my rear doors that I often use for a two burner Coleman stove. No problems with bending the hinges. Post some photos here of your build if you pull the trigger on it. Always cool to see what other people have done.

The Gen 1 Connects already have pretty good ground clearance stock (7.9") vs Gen 2's (6"). I haven't had any problems with the forestry resource roads around British Columbia with mine. That being said, fitting the largest tire you can would be the easiest thing to get some extra clearance.

I have a floor and ceiling installed inside, so I won't be able to get a good measurement. But from what I recall, it's 59" for the '10-13 models.

The black metal hoop that they attached to bolts onto the metal volume below the one for the door slider (might be covered by a plastic cover). Here's a somewhat blurry photo of what the whole setup should look like. I'll ask the friend that I gave the seat to about the floor mounts, and replay back.

I have a 2010 TC Passenger that I took one of the rear seats out of. I gave it to a friend to try to fit in her 2013 TC cargo. All the mounts are there for the seats and seat belts, but there is no footwell. The rear passenger has to sit with their knees up by their chest... not ideal, but it works.

I'm wondering the longevity of my standard speakers back there with moisture. I noticed a bit of road silt on the inside of the panels when I took them out. Thanks! That's a pretty big granite wall up in the Coast Mountains. There are a ton of them back there!

Thanks! The only tricky thing was feeding the speaker wire through the weather-sealed rubber hoses between the van and the doors. Just takes some patience and a stiff guide-wire to fish through. Also, you've got to watch how deep the speakers are in the door. There are a few metal braces that you have to avoid.

I've got a 2010 with a Rocketbox on top. Just had to drill the holes for the mounts a little back so it doesn't overhang the windshield. The extra storage is amazing, but it's way up there! I have to open the side door and step up on the doorsill to reach inside of it.

Hello, thought I'd share some photos of my custom camperization for anyone interested/inspired to do the same. It took me a few months to complete, and definitely learnt a lot along the way. Despite being boxy, there are no straight lines to work off of! Pretty much every piece of wood had to be custom measured and cut (often multiple times). Since finishing it, I've been on lots of road trips on the West Coast of Canada and US. The TC handles it all! Feel free to ask any questions about the build or one's about your project.

Hi all, new to the forum. I've got a 2010 Transit Connect that I did a custom camperization on. I'm having a bit of a new problem with the driver's door lock that I can't figure out. Here are the symptoms: Can't lock by pressing the tab inside the driver's door (tab won't budge) Can't lock by key fob (all other doors lock) Won't auto-lock when put into drive (all other doors lock) Can lock by turning the key in the lock, but with great resistance (afraid I'll snap the key) Can lock by holding the tab down at the same time at the key fob locks the doors I've tried lubing the lock with no avail. Any suggestions? Also, here's a photo of the camperization for those interested.