DanDweller

Awesome, thanks! That too has always bothered me, especially when it's a passenger who doesn't tend to put their seatbelt on--even isn't bothered enough by the chime to do so.

Tentatively, I may have figured it out. Instead of unlocking the doors from the remote key, I unlocked them from the lock on the doors themselves. So far, they have not relocked.

Thanks for the replies. So, here's what I've come to: It isn't the auto-lock-when-driving that I'm trying to turn off--though it would be nice to also have that off. I did try what was recommended, and only ever get one horn chirp no matter what I press, which should mean it's disabled. Only way to tell is test drive it and that's not possible at the moment as I'm parked in my uncle's airplane hangar with everything in disarray (I'm converting it into a camper.) No, what I'm trying to turn off is the annoying feature that, when you are stationary, relocks all the doors 45 seconds after you close them all. I hate having to grab my keys to unlock the doors everytime I want to get in--especially in the current situation where I'm working on camper modifications days or weeks at a time, coming and going, sort of half living out of it. What's weird is that for a week it stopped doing this, but then returned to the usual relocking obnoxiousness. If only I could figure out its secret! Anyway, generally speaking, I don't need someone to babysit me with automation so that I don't forget to lock my doors and end up having my car stolen. As with all things in life, I would rather run some reasonable risk (of forgetting something) than to have my autonomy usurped by eggheaded automation. The Roger Rabbit dance is more useful than some of these poindexterish "innovations". ?

Hi all, can someone please tell me how to disable the automatic door locking in a 2015 XL? Do I have to spin around three times and click my heels or what?

I see, okay thank you.

Cool, that's the one I have. I just started browsing for swivel plates and can see that just finding the right one is going to be a challenge. From a phone conversation I just had with a manufacturer of swivel plates, I was told that I'll need to remove the seat and get an exact measurement, center to center, of the bolt holes. They make them for Transits, he said, but not sure if it would be adaptable to a TC without an exact measurement.

Thanks for the reply. What year is your TC?

I'm dying to know exactly how to do this (2015 XL, LWB)! Was here to post about this very question when I found this thread. A place in my town that does conversions and has all the tools to grind, weld, fabricate etc is willing to give it a try, but has no experience with converting something as small as a TC. They think the center console would need to be removed. It would be awesome, when I take the van to them next week, to show up with some kind of step by step! Please oh please ?

Yeah, after posting this I also called a dealership and talked to a service tech who said it sounded normal.

Hi all, I just had an alternator shop look at my alternator because 1) I want to see if the transmission's hard shifting is related to a bad alternator, and 2) I am going to install a battery in the back of the van for vandwelling and one of the ways in which I will charge that battery is by a 20amp battery-to-battery charger made by Renogy, so I want to be sure my alternator is up to the task. When we first started the engine, the alternator was putting out up to 14.8volts, but after a minute, it went down and stayed around 13.3-13.4. When I kicked on the AC and brights, it dipped to 13.0 for a half-second and then went back to stay at 13.3-13.4. The guys at the shop were not able to say whether the alternator is definitely faulty or perhaps is made to behave this way. So I am putting the question on this forum before spending $235 to have them rebuild the alternator. Thanks for any input.

So then back to the question of whether the 50A capacity will put too much strain on the alternator (or impact fuel economy)?

I guess I'm more confused now. So does the wiring coming from the alternator-relay not go to a MPPT controller? How does this interface with the solar charge controller? I thought from prior conversations in a different forum that I needed to use a DC to DC charger to protect the alternator.

Hello all, I am about to convert my TC 2015 XL for vandwelling and am looking at how to charge the 100ah lithium iron phosphate battery I plan on getting to power vent fan and lights. In addition to solar panels, I also want the option to charge from the alternator. What I learned from talking to a technician at Renogy (who makes the battery I'm going to buy) is that with an MPPT DC to DC charger, it will control both options. But the one they sell draws 50 amps from the alternator and he advised me to find out if my alternator can handle the additional draw. (Of course, calling Ford and Ford dealers has proved to be useless--as always, on any question.) It is this one: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.renogy.com/amp/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/ I bet this is probably too much draw, but I don't really understand these things so well. Can someone help me out here, or recommend another brand which has a similar DC to DC battery charger with MPPT but which draws less amps from the alternator (how many would be safe?), allowing to charge via alternator or solar panels? Also, I understand from our conversation that I would also need an inverter charger to be able to connect to shore power, but the one Renogy sells is 2000 watts--more than I think I will need. (The inverter I would use to charge my electric shaver and use a laptop every now and then--not much at all). Is there another brand someone could recommend, and that is for lithium iron phosphate batteries? Thank you!

I did notice this plastic shield beside the rqdiator (driver side) is busted.