JustinVP

I can confirm that Forscan now works great for adjust speedo for larger tires. Running 215/65r16 Geolandars I bumped it up to 2070 circumference and it's bang-on perfect now when compared to a GPS speedo app on my phone. Based on prior threads I only changed the circumference, no other settings. First time in Forscan was a bit nerve wracking when that warning message came up that said (paraphrasing): "don't do this, you'll brick your car". At least that's the impression I got. Ha!

Excellent! Adapter ordered and I’ll finally have a reason to mess around in Forscan. If I’m lucky maybe I can also find a way to permanently turn off that bloody backup sensor instead of hitting the off button all the time (bike rack is a permanent fixture).

How’d you do that? Forscan? Last time I dug through the forums I didn’t think it was on option in the TC.

Oooh, tell us more! I'm in basically the same boat. but on a wagon. I'm not sure if they're the same shock size since the spring is heaver on the wagon. I'd really like to fit some air assist rears for loaded up trail building and shuttle or camp days. P.S. nice Sentinel!

Did you ever find the rear shock specs? I'm curious as well as I'd like to fit some Gabriel HiJacker air-assist shocks. I did the 30mm front spacer lift, but left the rear stock (wagon sits higher than your cargo version). It's about right with just me and 1 mtb on back, but sags with 3 trail bikes and a full load of gear.

I'm happy with the 30mm on front. I think with the 40's you might need to use a spring compressor to get the right strut into the knuckle, it took some (reasonable but firm) pushing on the passenger side to get the strut tube back in. That said, I'm a great MTB wrench, but not much experience with cars, so take my input with a pinch of salt. It might be easy if you know what you're doing. I ended up doing nothing yet on the backs, it's level with my 1-person covid routine and my Transition Patrol and heavy-ass rack on back. Loaded for camping it sags a little. 3 DH bikes and 3 dudes going to Whistler it would definitely sag. My dream is to find a way to fit in some Gabriel air-adjust shocks back there, once I rally some time/motivation.

Nice! Much easier that way.

I think it's this piece: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-cable-dt1z61221a00d Maybe.

After about a year decided to finish off my sound insulation deadening/insulation project, and of course I got a little ham fisted and broke a plastic part taking off the driver-side front door panel. 2016 Titanium Wagon. Broke this plastic part: the little clip that attaches the cable to the latch. The online manual I bought sucks, so don't have parts numbers or good replacement info. Can I replace just the cable, or do I need the whole latch mechanism? Any parts #'s from those of you who have a proper manual/parts diagram would be awesome. Also, any tips on how to elegantly get this piece out would be appreciated! Obviously my "yank on it" method isn't ideal. This pic is the most detail the service manual provides. Pretty sure it's the brown part I circled. Anyone know if this can be done with the lock mechanism still in the van, or does the whole thing need to come out? What a PITA! Shoulda been more careful.

Further research if someone wants an alternate idea for a front lift. This guy on Instagram put in the front struts from an Escape 4x4, plus additional spacers) into his TC. If those are a direct fit, it would be an ideal solution, bit I couldn't find any additional details. Someone with better wrenching experience than me should chase this down and see if it works. https://www.instagram.com/transit_connect_overland/

Negative, Captain. Looks like it, but they're just molding marks.

Hey Kerry, check out this thread, the good bits are on p4: I just put on a 30mm lift with spacers (haven't done rear yet, but maybe next week). Plus 215/65 16 Yokohama Geolandar trires for another 10mm. That's a hair over 1.5" extra, which is a massive improvement for forest road clearance. I build mountain bike trails in my spare time, so I'm driving on crappy, mucky, partially decommissioned logging roads quite a lot, with bikes, people (I guess I'm going solo until the apocalypse is over) and tools in the back. It drives way better now on forest roads, but taller tires and rubber spacers make it drive more van-like, as expected. A guy on Instagram did more of a front lift, but he had to be a pretty decent mechanic to do it, since getting even an extra 30mm in there was tight. He put struts from a 4x4 Escape, plus spacers for 2.5" lift I think. I couldn't find a lot of details from him, so I went with the Russian rubber spacers instead. Find him here on the Insta: https://www.instagram.com/transit_connect_overland/

The 65 vs stock 55 series tires made it feel a lot less responsive cornering (loved the stock handling of this thing), quieter on insanely rough/loud Seattle freeways, much smoother over broken concrete (aka our streets), and way, way better on logging roads. Basically what you'd expect on a taller sidewall tire. I drove these for a few weeks before installing front spacers. I could tell no difference in handling once the 30mm spacers went in, though I'm sure you'd notice something if on stock tires. Quieter again, if anything, which could be the rubber spacer isolating the struts from the metal body of the van. I get that there will be increased wear on CV's, etc., but 30mm is pretty modest and the angles looked reasonable after install. The amount I pay in CV and front end work will be saved by not peeling open the underside like a popcan on those ridges of cobble that like to stick up from the center of logging roads. @jrm223 Good info on the wiper arms! I put them back on with anti-seize, which should also make it easier. I'm looking to keep this fairly low cost, so no welding or bags. I'll probably do the rear spacers, if the shop wants $$ I'm sure I can find better spring compressor to rent somewhere.

I went for it, and got the front 30mm lift done, plus larger Geolandar 215 65/r16 tires. I haven't yet done the rear, my cheap 2-rod-style spring compressors couldn't do the job due to access. I might have the local shop do it when I get an alignment. It actually measures dead-nuts-level unloaded with just the front lift. I've got some stuff in the back in this pic, but only ~150 lbs including bike rack. I'll definitely do the rear lift one way or the other. Don't want it saggy when I have 3 MTBs on the back plus all my work event stuff inside. Here's the Russian Ebay kit I bought from Tema 4x4 (thanks REI_Grande!). Made of rubber, not plastic, so I hope the front spacers hold up over time. Getting the wiper arms off to access strut bolts is a PITA. Needed to clamp the puller together otherwise the dogs would pop off. The basic Amazon special puller sucks for the job, it really doesn't open far enough, I had to modd it plus used big C-clamp like below, so use something beefier. Removing the passenger side strut on this required a lot of force. The axle bottoms on a metal frame piece (where circled), and you have to push hard, which made me nervous. It eventually slid out of the steering knuckle (slid = hammering on it with 2x2 piece of lumber/2 lb hammer). Driver's side has a lot more room for the axle to move, and was 10x easier. I put the pinch bolts in through the "wrong side" (at end of yellow line) to squeeze open the joint since I didn't have the special tool for this. Worked great. Given the lack of room even stock, the only way to put struts back in with 30mm spacers was to compress the springs. Once I cut some pipe as spacers so the compressor rods wouldn't hit the top of the strut towers, it was relatively easy, though very tight. In hindsight, I'd probably compress the non-drive spring to get the stock strut off without levering so much force on the axle/CV joint. Went back together nicely. Even the brake lines and ABS wire mount went back in with enough room to bend at topout. A couple hundred miles and a bunch of logging roads later, I'm thrilled with the fronts and the awesome Yokohama tires. I'm not 100% sold on the spring spacers for the rear, possible spring bind at full compression? I come from the mountain bike world, so worry about stuff like that. I'd prefer an air assist shock or spring assist shock for the back, but haven't found any that are direct fit. We'll see how much the shop wants to install the rear spacers. Should be less than an hour of labor with a good one-sided commercial spring compressor - but we all know how these odd mods go, so we'll see.

I found a super easy way to spread it. See the bolt that fixes the strut to the knuckle? In the pic it's actually threaded in from the "wrong" side, and I put a washer in there so it pushes against the washer and spreads the joint.