Wingerr

Awesome information, looks like I have a pump failure on my 2013, fuse is okay, both front and rear washer is not working, dtc said "none"

This is apparently a very common issue, so assuming they didn't redesign the assembly for higher reliability than the original, i'd refrain from going and buying another door latch assembly just to fix this. instead, you can just open up the door panel and locate the two wires that need to be connected to make it think the door is closed, and that'll take care of the inability to lock your doors.

The door ajar sensor on the Transit is not a reliable design, it's integrated into the door latch assembly, rather than the usual separate switch on the door jambs. Since it's stupidly costly to replace the whole assembly just for the common issue of the switch being intermittent, it's a better option to just wire the harness so it thinks the door is closed regardless. Easy process to do. I can accept having to figure out when the door is open or closed on my own, so I'm okay with disabling the open door detection.

https://www.bluespringsfordparts.com/v-2013-ford-transit-connect--xlt--2-0l-l4-gas/cooling-system--radiator-and-components

Tried this out, but it needs short stubs of pipe to bring it to the right OD for the hose, and the 1-1/4" pipe only came in 10 foot lengths, so it wasn't practical. Ebay has plastic hose tees for about the same cost, so that may be the only option, unless I come across some scrap pipe.

Sitting with engine idling waiting to pick up someone from airport, the plastic tee they use for the upper radiator hose decided to crack and let loose all the coolant in a huge plume. Ordered a Gates replacement modular assembly as the tee connector apparently isn't even sold by Ford separately, though there's some aftermarket on eBay. I may get a proper copper tee and try seeing if that'll work, found 1-1/4" to 3/4" Nibco copper tee available from Lowes. Maddening use of plastic by all these car manufacturers, calculated to fail every 9 years. will see how the Gates aftermarket hose holds up-

I'd like to disable the auto unlocking on my 2013, maybe I'll have to see if there's a similar procedure available for the earlier gen Transits. It's going to prevent me from being able to lock my doors one of these days, due to the door ajar sensor going wonky. Closest option is to disable the two stage unlocking, but I don't know if that will solve the problem of not being able to lock the doors if the driver door ajar sensor is faulty. Unlocking the Doors (Two-Stage Unlock) Press the button to unlock the front and sliding doors. Press the button again within three seconds to unlock all doors. Press and hold both the lock and unlock buttons on the remote control for four seconds to disable or enable two-stage unlocking. Disabling two-stage unlocking allows all vehicle doors to unlock with one press of the button. The turn signals will flash twice to indicate the unlocking mode was changed.

I'm inclined to do the same if I can't clean out the contacts somehow. Don't want to buy a new latch assembly having the same design issues, if it doesn't have the convenience feature of unlocking all the doors when the driver door is opened, I'm fine with that. Don't want to be trying to park somewhere and not have any way to lock the doors because they just keep unlocking on their own in a misguided attempt to be helpful.

Same problem. Seems like a bad design decision to use these integrated door latch/door ajar sensors as they're apparently just not reliable.

Has anyone opened up one of these assemblies to see just why the door open sensor stops working properly? Maybe it's something that could be adjusted easily, rather than replacing the whole thing just because of the door sensor. I'm starting to have intermittent problems locking my 2013 TC, it thinks the driver door is open when I got the remote to lock it, so it unlocks the doors immediately after it locks. Then I have to try opening and closing the door and trying again, and usually it takes.

Found schematic on this, showing all the details of the battery saver and fuse group.

How does the battery saver work? Is it a type of retained accessory power that triggers a 30 minute interval whenever the last door is closed? Is the timer controlling the relay coil for the battery saver relay 128? It looks like the socket for the relay is a single pole single throw relay, is that all it is, or is it more specialized? I am looking to add a tap for power on a backup camera and wanted something that is accessory switched. I was considering using one of the fuses sockets in the group 144 149 and 155 for the power, if they are suitable, but the battery saver seems useful.

I ordered a transponder key blank for my 2013 TC for $21, and was wondering what the typical charge the locksmiths capable of cutting these keys would charge. Is $19 for cutting the key in the ballpark? I was considering getting two remote key fobs for $60 for two, but I really only needed to get a spare key as a safety in case I lost one of the originals, and would then be forced to go to the dealer to get another programmed replacement. So, I decided to just get the key sans remote, so I'd have to ability to program replacement keys if I lost one..

Funny but I was just looking at those two, a Ranger and 2010 Transit Connect with nearly 110k mi, and wondering just what might be typical lifespan before major work would be expected. There's a listing for 2012 TC's with 200 to 250k miles (that's miles, not kilometers) by a taxi company, being sold as is but purportedly running, for $2100. Didn't think they'd go that long, but I guess running as a taxi and running almost around the clock is how it'd be possible. Is there a mileage figure considered end-of-life for these, or is it more determined by how it was driven, and luck of the draw? If they're running I'd consider one as a disposable vehicle to get an idea just how useful they'd be.