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didnt try a new plug, but they are brand new. It comes in as P0304, thats the only code it shows.

yea, its mostly just at idle. Power seems fine once I get rolling. If im at a stoplight with the AC going it struggles, but after I get moving its fine. I clear the code and sometimes it takes a hour before it comes back in, sometimes it comes back in before I make it out of the driveway...

well the coil packs didnt help. It still has a misfire on #4. I lent my buddy my compression tester so I cant really check much. I still have a leakdown test kit here, I'll try that and see if the head I bought is at fault. Maybe a valve again, although it looked great when I got it. It really doesnt run that bad though, im still able to drive it, which is nice. I'll keep you posted as to what I find. I thought I had this thing done!

Thanks, thats exactly right. I fixed the timing and it fired right up! I still have a cylinder misfire come in but on cylinder 4, i think it could be a coil pack. I will troubleshoot that, im just glad its running finally. Thank you all for your input and support, especially you GBL!!. This has been a hell of a project. Just shows it can be done, dont be scared to tackle something like this yourself!! Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. thanks again!

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check this out:

I used the same torque gun to get it off the first time, no problem. Very strange. I held the button for a few seconds, so I'd say 145 ft lb or so. Its crazy how it cant get it off now, should have the same force. I did not use loctite. The air compressor is 8 gallon, 4.5 cfm @ 90 psi. I have it set at 125 psi. The tool says 6 cfm @ 90 so I guess thats why its weak. I sprayed it like 20x with pb blast and let it soak. I think taking the starter off and just putting a bar in between the teeth of the flex plate is my only option, just use a breaker bar slowly...very frustrating. Im so close! On a side note, I have an idea of how to adjust the timing without having to remove the front cover and take tension off the chain. If I take off one cam gear and adjust it so the metal plate fits, put it back on, then loosen the other one and get them both lined up and then tighten them. Since the crank shaft sprocket is not keyed, once I get this stupid bolt out, I can set the timing on it and it wont move, then I can move the cams and chain in time, and bolt them up. The shop manual has a way to release the tensioner through a plug in the front cover, but that seems pretty difficult since there is about 3" of clearance.

so I cant get the damn crank shaft bolt out. I used the same torque wrench to take it off and put it on. now it wont come off. I went to harbor freight and got a pneumatic 700 foot pound one and it wont budge. fml. I wonder if my air compressor is too small or something. I was thinking of taking off the starter and using a pry bar to wedge into the flex plate, then use a breaker bar with an extension. Thoughts?

So I think I lucked out, through a friend I got in touch with a ford technician who left the stealership and started his own shop. He said he would come help me get it lined up, all I have to pay is gas money for him to get there! I'll believe it when I see it but the stuff I ordered off ebay should be here saturday, gonna try and get it done sunday. I'll keep you updated.

thanks! At least it starts now haha. I was looking in the book, and I can remove the timing chain without taking the front cover off which is awesome. I'll dial in the cams and put the chain back on. I'll have it towed home tomorrow. That kit off ebay should be here soon, and I'll give it another shot...

just herd back from Ford, the CKP was on wrong, causing it not to have spark, but they said it is not running good. The timing is still slightly off I guess. Im gonna have to adjust it. Could the cylinder head I bought have valves that are not adjusted properly? Or do you think its just timing? Gonna order this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camshaft-Setting-Locking-Tool-Kits-Timing-Pin-for-Ford-Engine-Zetec-Focus-Puma-/381045242338?hash=item58b810f9e2&item=381045242338&vxp=mtr should help me get the timing dead on.

yea, the scanner is what I want to do, called ford and they said it will be 100 to scan it but I have to tow it there obviously. Im thinking the ecu thinks the timing is wrong and is not firing anything. It does have a crank sensor and cam sensor. I was thinking of getting a new crank sensor just to make sure thats not the problem. There really isnt anything I can do anymore, im gonna have it towed to Ford and see what they say. I'll keep you updated.

Checked all fuses, they are all good

I have not checked all the fuses, I pulled a few but I will def. go over all them. Thanks for the manual. When the key is turned everything acts normal, fuel pump and all gauges. It turns over fine, I can just tell it doesnt have spark, like its not even trying to fire. Will a local shop have that scanner or would it be best to just take it to the stealership? thanks again!

so I scanned and nothing stored in the ecu. Im out of ideas. I may have to have it towed to a shop with a scanner and see whats up. this sucks!

no my scanner just shows codes stored in the ecu. Im gonna try and see what comes up if anything to set me in the right direction. I checked all my connectors, got everything hooked up. No damage to any of them. Really frustrated right now, i'll let you know what codes it throws.

yea fuel pump is good, I didnt have the line all the way on and it blew off and shot fuel everywhere haha. The only connector I cant get on is the power steering pump one. All the others are on from what I can tell. I def have no spark, I took a coil pack out and put a plug in it and there is nothing going on. What could cause no spark?

Thanks! It sounds like no spark, I think if the timing was off it would misfire. I'll keep you posted.

well I just finished putting all the connectors on and filling all the fluids. I turned the key and cranked it over for a few seconds with no spark to get some oil primed and then tried with everything hooked up and it wont start. I hope its just something I overlooked. I know I have fuel, gonna check for spark tomorrow. I'll let it sit over night with the battery disconnected and try again in the morning. I'll get my obdII scanner and see what comes up. Pretty bummed, I thought it was gonna fire right up!

will do. thanks for the help GBL!

yea I was afraid of that. I had the rings on that way first but after reading I switched them. Oh well, at least I can fix it now easily. I cleaned out that cooler so it should be fine. The bearings and old oil were fine. Internally the engine looked great, especially for 185K miles. The replacement head will be there wednesday, once I get it I can start assembling everything. Im a bit worried about the timing since im putting on a different head and cams, but im sure I can figure it out. I'll keep you updated.

there were no marking or dots, just the beveled edge and non. The bags that they came in said 1st and second. From what I read the beveled edge ring goes on the top and the silver and non beveled edge second. I guess i'll call the manufactured to be 100%. I already put them in so that would suck! One other thing is the manual says to replace the oil cooler or severe engine damage may occur?? how is that? I can find one anywhere to buy.Do you think I should get one from the stealership or will it be ok? I took it apart and cleaned it.

I have a question about the piston rings I received. they came with no instructions and the shop manual isnt 100% clear. Im confused which ring is the top and middle. I know the oil rings are on the bottom. One ring is black in color and has a beveled edge, the other is lighter in color almost silver, and has no bevel at all. From what I have read, if there is no dot then it can go bevel up or down, the shop manual states they can both face down as well. I just want to make sure I have them in the right spot. Right now I have the beveled ring on the top slot and then non below followed by the oil rings. Like an idot I took off all the old rings and didnt pay attention as they looked identical with all the carbon buildup on them.

thanks guys. I will keep you up to date as I get parts in and make progress. Will be at least another week before the head arrives.

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