escobar

well, I put everything back together and it fired right up, but the rough idle / miss is still there.I cant believe it. Pretty frustrated right now. Gonna do a compression test and see what it reads. The valve I took out was burnt, but it was not bent at all. What do you think? Im gonna check over everything again, maybe replace the plugs, they looked kinda nasty.

thanks GBL, good info there. I'll put the valve in the drill and see if its bent when I spin it. Def. gonna lap all them in real good. I'll keep you all updated.

well i def. have a burnt valve. Dis-assembly was pretty easy, no issues at all. Had the cylinder head off in about 5 hours. Ordered all new valves, head gasket, exhaust gasket and head bolts. glad I decided to pull it, it will be nice for it to be right. I think the valve was bent and was sticking. I'll know more once I pull them out.

It is def a tough job in the vehicle, I may end up pulling the engine again. So far Ive got the exhaust manifold, generator, fuel rail, harness and a bunch of other little stuff off in about 3 hours. Gonna see how far I get over the weekend.

well I have decided to bite the bullet and take the head back off. The misfire is starting to annoy me. The idle is very rough and now with it warming up and the AC running its bad. On a bright note, I found a 2010 with only 24,000 miles on it and bought it yesterday to drive while I fix mine. I'll keep you in the loop as to what I find!

It was the speed resistor, the plug that goes into it had melted too...I went ahead and replaced both and it works. thanks again. I did not see any pollen filter anywhere though? As far as the engine goes, it was just a valve that wasnt seating I believe. No CEL or anything, just a slight rough idle when cold but once it warms up it purrs haha.

awesome, thanks GBL! Its doing great!

I have a 2010 transit connect XLT and the AC will only work on speed 4 or full speed. Just wondering what would cause this and if there is a fix? thanks!

yea I hate to leave it. I will get it torn down one weekend if I can summon some help!

yea your exactly right, I think the piston hit it, or it was slightly damaged during shipping... although I doubt that from how well that packaged it, but I guess anything is possible! In order to take the head off I have to remove the front engine cover which is a total pain with it in the car. I will probably just drive it like it is for a while until I finish all my other projects. It sucks but its not bad enough to really be a issue. I would love for it to be perfect but im not ready to tear into it again, I need it for my daily work truck.

yep, he scanned it yesterday and cylinder #4 is def. having issues. Its a valve for sure, its either slightly bent, or a spring is cracked or something. Its really not that bad but def. not right. I will have to pull the head off and replace the valves on #4. Strange thing is it passed the leakdown test but I dont know how accurate my gauge is.

yea I think thats what we will do, ride around and try to data log. Yea the noise is just the exhaust system from the misfire. Its like a puffing sound. My mechanic is good, he will figure it out. I'll report back

thats true, after today I think its a electrical issue of some sort. I was driving to work today and the CEL starts flashing for about 30 seconds, my AC stops blowing cool air and my power drops. Then it stops flashing and AC blows cool and my power comes back. Im baffled. I know a good mechanic who used to work at ford and has the $2000 scanner, he said he will take a look middle of next week hopefully. He said it could be the fuel rail clogged, because the #4 injector is last in line. I think i'll take the rail off this weekend and blow it out and clean it real good to eliminate that as well. I'll keep you all in the loop as the saga goes on!

typically I will clear the code and drive and it will only come back in when its idling.

ok ill try that. you really dont think that 15% difference is causing it? I dont know what else it could be.

its been about 1000 miles since the rebuild. I did not check the cylinder walls, everything looked fine and I didnt have any of those tools. I knew I had a bad valve and plug threads so I just fixed that and put it back together, The ring grooves looked just fine, no difference between any of them. This is hard to believe, is there any tricks or anything to lower the compression in the other 3 so the misfire goes away?! I really dont want to have to pull the head and pan off to mess with the piston again.

it has 180,000 miles. i'll check the vacuum lines again. I replaced all the rings, I wonder why that cylinder is lower than the rest? Initially #2 had the low compression. maybe defective rings? Alot of work to pull the head and and oil pan back off. damn

ok so I just did the compression test, 210 in #1, 210 in #2, 210 in #3 and 180 in #4. That is exactly right at the 15% margin so I guess that is what is causing the misfire. 180 doesnt seem bad, that is what I had in all the other cylinders to start with, but with the new rings it went up. I did a wet test and the psi went up to like 240 so I know its the rings. What options do I have beside pull the engine again?!

skip is pretty much only at low speed. it bogs down every now and then when im accelerating. I did listen with a screw driver, they are all clicking. Resistance is the same across all injectors. I did swap the injectors and coil packs and plugs, still came in on cylinder 4. Used the NOID light and the coil pack and injector is firing properly. I get my compression tester back tonight, I'll let you know what the results are on that. I took the air box cover off and let it pull air with no filter and it started to stall. I'll shoot some MAF sensor cleaner on it. On a side note, my AC acts funny. When the engine misfires and the cel blinks, my AC will stop blowing cool air. It will take about 30 seconds before it gets cold again. It doesnt happen much. about 2-3 times a day but its odd.

I will have my comp. tester back this weekend and will check that. I have swapped coils, plugs and injectors and it still comes in on #4. I did a leakdown test and the valves checked out ok. Im gonna buy this http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200391521_200391521?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Fuel%20Line%20Tools&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=205107&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=205107&gclid=CjwKEAjw5pKtBRCqpfPK5qXatWYSJABi5kTxInFXqRgFzkZeDd1PGBaWzPU-zxTZZfUgW8YYaUmXUBoCUcXw_wcB and check the injector. if compression is good, what else is there to check??

ok I will try that. I was able to confirm it is cylinder 4 by removing the coil wire and no effect on engine idle. I checked for resistance across all injectors and they all read 20.5. Had to work late tonight so I couldnt do the compression test but with all new rings I doubt thats it...

so after swapping plugs around it came back in on cylinder 4, so I know the plug is good. Im gonna make a compression test gauge until my buddy returns mine and check that. After that I guess it could be a injector or something electrical where its not sparking good enough I guess. It was idling rough on first start but after it warmed up it was smooth again. very strange.

will do. I'll let you know what I find.

yea I drove it up and down the street and the CEL never came back on but it was still idling a little rough. I'll have a full day tomorrow driving it and I'll see what cylinder the code comes in on. thanks GBL!

True, I went ahead and swapped #3 and #4 cylinder plugs around. While I had them out, I noticed that the cylinder 2 and 3 plugs were bone white on the ceramic end, where the #4 misfire was like brownish. I also did a leakdown test and it was fine, so I know its not the valves. Could the EGR valve be bad and cause it? Its making a odd exhaust sound under the car, like a puffing sound. I dont know if thats from the misfire or what. I'll take a video of that tomorrow.