ActiveIndy

Any resolution to this issue? I also have the same problem....the upper latch on the passenger side won't release. MIne is a 2010, but should be same mechanism....

Anyone else had to replace the rocker panels on their Transit Connect? I have a 2010 and one side has rusted all the way through, the other has started rusting. Took it to a reputable collision center here in Indianapolis and they shared that OEM rocker panels are the only ones available - at $1800 each...then labor on top of that. That was just the first quote I've obtained, but it was north of $5k. Just curious if I'm the only one out there that is dealing with rust in this location and whether anyone else has sourced less expensive parts...thanks!

Glad to hear others have had the issue too. One interesting development on my end is that when I first started this thread I described the noise was happening when I was locking the van. Now the loud whirring noise it has switched to occur only when I'm unlocking the van. David - any chance you can snap a photo of the tabs/lock box area so I know exactly where to start poking around? I'm not afraid.

Hey gang! Looking for a bit of help again - in the past week the lock mechanism on the drivers side sliding door has started malfunctioning. When it attempts to lock it makes a pretty loud "whirring" noise like it is attempting to lock but in the end it ends up staying unlocked. This happens when I use the keyfob as well as when the autolock feature kicks in every time I put it into drive and start driving. Tried searching the forum but didn't find this issue already documented. Any ideas what I'm dealing with? There wasn't any "event" that I can think of that prompted the issue to begin happening...any thoughts on troubleshooting this issue?

Didn't see anything wrong with the wiring and both fans spin freely.... Went ahead and replaced the fuse and works as intended now. Will continue to keep an eye on things. Thanks all!

Just came in from poking around in the fuse box. 50amp fuse was blown, but 30 amp looked ok. Need to go back and check the 10 amp fuse... Is there a particular brand of fuses that are recommended? I assume this is something I can pick up at an auto part store (Napa, AutoZone etc)?

Thanks guys - was able to take a look today and let it run until it heated up and did confirm the fans are not coming on. Can someone walk me through a few things I might be able to check before taking it into a dealer? There a fuse that might have blown? Electrical connections that have come a little loose?

Anyone with a first gen TC have an issue with it overheating after siting still/idling for 15-20 or so minutes? I've mostly owned Honda products in the past and their cooling system is typically overengineered so I've never really had an issue like what I'm seeing with my van. After 15-20 minutes of stop/go trafficwhen the temps outside are 85F+ the temp gauge starts climbing up near the red until I get the van moving again to get airflow over the radiator. Luckily here in Indy we don't have really bad traffic issues so this rarely happens, but it has happened a handful of times over the past couple of months. Just trying to gauge if this is "normal" or if there is something going on with the thermostat or something. Coolant levels are good and the system was flushed by the dealer in the spring...

Final verdict on this ended up being the stainless steel trim rings I have on my wheels (removed the hubcaps) - one of them was causing the noise...what a pain to diagnose though! Glad it wasn't anything more serious!

I also searched quite awhile before finding my black 2010 XLT. Our company colors include black and I didn't want to do a full wrap on a white one so my search lasted a bit longer than if you are flexible on color. Ended up driving 4 hours to a dealership and doing a purchase on 12/31 so they would deal a bit more to get it out of their inventory before the end of the year.

Hey gang! Have started hearing a ticking noise from (I think) the front left wheel only when rolling. Don't have to be braking to hear it... Any thoughts on what I might be dealing with?

I've hauled 4x8 sheets of plywood in my '10 passenger TC with the 2/3 of the rear seats removed (and the other 1/3 seat folded forward if needed). I've had success standing the sheets on end and depending on how many I have - I either close one rear door and angle the sheets so they only come out the open half of the back or leave both rear doors open (if I'm hauling more than can fit through 1/2 of the rear opening). Then I close the open door(s) as much as possible and bungee them shut. Have never tried loading them flat on the floor because most of the time I'm hauling so few that I can close one of the rear doors and get the other one closed pretty far before I bungee it.

Hey gang! 2010 XLT owner here. Had one of my front turn signals go out late last year, replaced the bulb and all was well. A couple months later the other one goes out - change the bulb and no dice. Took the entire bulb/socket from the working signal and dropped it into the non-working assembly and it works fine. Took the "malfunctioning" bulb/socket and dropped it into the working assembly and it doesn't work. So it appears that the socket that the bulb plugs into - and you then screw that into the assembly - has gone bad. Anything I should look at with the socket itself that might be "fixable" before I scrap it and just order a new one? It appears it is part number 13k370 and runs about $18 or so.... Thanks in advance!

http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/gallery/image/572-tide-center-caps/ I just searched for "stainless steel trim rings" for our stock wheel size (15" if I recall?) and found them online for just under $50 I think.

Nice! I'm doing the poor mans version...ditched the hubcaps after I lost one that popped off, added stainless steel trim rings to the OEM steel wheels and am going to hit them with a coat of black paint this winter when I have some time. Then I'm going to try the "painted laundry detergent cap" center cap that someone else on the forum posted awhile back to finish them off. Should end up with about $50 invested when I'm done and will post pics...