RDinNHandAZ

I didn't on this van but did use it “Gaps and Cracks” to glue in some polyisocyanurate panels where the walls were flat enough like the rear window spaces. I've done it before on a previous van and if you do BE VERY CAREFUL not to fill the space as the foams expands with force and will deform the outside skin of the van. I’d stuff them with a hydrophobic fiber like glass fiber, or thinsulate if you are rich.

I’ve done a couple of vans and I think the thinsulite will be so close to what it and the kilmat together would do you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. However after spending the money on some Kilmat you probably would say it was quieter just to believe you spent the money well. Your phone should be able to get an app that is a decibel meter to record how well it works. Much of the noise often comes from the front and rear wheel wells so if you can improve them their you will gain a lot. On my previous van I used a heavy layer of ruberized spray undercoat to good effect inside the wheel wells and this one I boxed the rears with insulation between the box and tin. My TC 2010 has reflexix on all the walls covered with thin carpet. That helps a lot.

Probably a bad battery, poor battery connections, poor ground connection, or defective relay in order of likeliness high to low. Does the ticking happen with the key off or only with it on or attempting to start? What you can do: Attach a battery charger and let it run for hours monitoring that it shows current going into the battery. If the van then will start suspect a bad battery. Go to an auto parts store and have the battery tested instead if that is easier. Good luck let us know.

Those seem like “normal” maintenance except the right rear brake adjuster and the transmission changes are a bit more often than I was thinking. Since it has worked for you I’ll go to your schedule for that. Thanks

Since you bought it used with lots of miles I expect it was inexpensively priced. Now you’ve driven it another 240,000 miles and hopefully it’s going strong and your repairs have been reasonable. I’d guess this van has been the most inexpensive vehicle per mile anyone could manage to own! I recently bought a 2010 with 59,000 miles I am converting to a one-traveler camper. I paid $4700 and will have $6,000 in it ready to hit the road for 4-5 months at a time.

BUMP. I know there are members who know the answers to some of my questions. Help please.

My cluster lights do not dim when the small wheel on the light control panel is turned. They are too bright. At the end of the movement there seems to be a detent that does nothing too. I got a preowned replacement from Ebay and it acts the same. How should this work? Are both these switches bad? Should I pony up the $100 for a new one? Would the switch that has the fog light control in it work too( it is $55 new)? Thanks to those who know how it is supposed to work and can make me smarter.

Here is another one with the plug in a different place. Amazon shows it as a fit for my 2010. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P55PCQ6/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A31B1NF333K7B&psc=1

Sorry I don’t but I have made/modified many bushings over the years. I measure the ID requirement with a caliper, then the most important OD of the current one or from the holder, and the length. Then I decide what material might work like nylon or bronze and try for a near match at Tractor Supply or Granger. Get the correct OD then either drill or ream it, cut it to length and instal it. Not a simple solution but it has worked many times for me. You could try these guys: https://www.bushingfix.com/ford-transit-connect-shifter-linkage-cable-bushing-replacement-kit/ Or: https://www.ebay.com/itm/335365257942?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

First are you sure it's not just stuck? I had to unwind it pretty far and then lay down on the asphalt and kick the hell out of the spare to get it to break free and fall down. The spare on my 2010 gasser is secured by both the cable from the winch and a safety cable. Both connect to a bracket inserted into the spare wheel and bolted through one of the lug holes. I believe you will need to cut that free of the wheel to drop the wheel. A 4” grinder with a narrow metal cutting disk would be my first attempt, then a sawsall with metal cutting blade. My spare wheel was so rusted that I had to replace it. The bracket you cut and the winch together are available from Ford but are $300. The part # is: 5T1Z-1K353-A. I’d try to salvage it somehow!

Thanks, Yesterday I pulled the lower windshield trim on the passenger side and reset everything. I sprayed the windshield with the hose and everything looks good and the water drains. I then went under the passenger dash and removed the trim under the glovebox, the carpet and the padding at the front of the wheel well. I found a leak in several places near the emergency fuel cut off box. One was coming from underneath it so I removed the box to confirm. It was there and I found some added weatherstrip adhesive added to the top seam after the car was made so it had been a problem earlier. I don’t understand why the previous owner failed to disclose the leaking. Bad Karma for that! I then dried everything out and coated the entire area with FlexSeal which is really too runny for vertical surfaces but several layers seemed to get it done. After drying for 5 hours I sprayed water again and so far have no leak. Friday is supposed to be a good hard rain so I reserve any statement of success until after that.

I’ve been fighting this for 2 weeks now. Every rainstorm I get water into the passenger footwell. It is coming through the seams high up on the firewall behind the glovebox. I’ve tried to find the source but can’t. I pulled the plastic trim below the windshield and found the weatherstrip out of place and fixed that. No improvement. Under that I found a metal tray partly covering the access to the cabin air filter which sat on top of the windshield surface. I repositioned it to below the windshield so water would flow into it as it looks like it was intended but again no improvement. I replaced the cabin air filter and cleaned up around it but did not expect that was the answer and it was not. The water is not going into the filter or the HVAC system. In desperation I got some FlexSeal and sprayed the seams from the inside that I can get to but it just finds another seam to the right or left or higher up like there was a lake outside. Anyone have ideas I haven’t thought of?

I’m glad my posts proved useful to you. I’m surprised and pleased that a TC can do those miles. I’ve used two of the China parking heaters and had good luck. I’m considering an all-in-one diesel box heater from Vevo or someone else for this van. Realistically it would be next summer for a build out. I’m struggling with water entering the passenger footwell when it rains. I’ve fixed the weather seal at the bottom of the windshield and the metal deflection tray slid under the bottom edge of the glass. Then I started looking inside as water kept coming. I sprayed a seam high up by the right of the glovebox on the firewall where I could see it enter. After that stopped the obvious leak the leak source moved up and more to the right so I plan to use the FlexSeal on that too. It’s like there is a pool of trapped water outside the firewall somewhere. Really I need to get to the other side and examine the face of the firewall behind the passenger tire I guess. How do I do that? I guess remove the wheel well liner? Interestingly there is no evidence of past water under the carpet and no rust. What could have changed? I’m going underneath with some ramps to lookk for what might be holding the water back. This has been a bear of an issue! With 60K on this van should I service the transmission? I’m thinking of buying a tranny pan with a drain plug $40 and replacing the filter and getting ford’s fluid and doing a drain and fill a few times. What’s been your experience?

If you decide to do it yourself, I’ve used Permatex Weatherstrip Adhesive. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81850-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HBI9EQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3M3EE5N3EE043&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4UXtd2zmH4X27GrXfVRXZCAAv0dj9uIHCn6Ph8xE50XETRoMWatdRisjHWL_iMZaQ2vmRxb2Ix5mtCRx0luNa8vptMuiCo7RD2-d5fEEzchBNh7rHqswyV3vpANZQOitwjdPsSR2_gqQ6LWie8o9ejLBY-mARWbahuqd9ap62EDHwt2ArVgaGscvSZ6kXqdyBBuQxfIJN207bP1TyVOYGz2yr566me5NC1iVmGUUz9zoVPv6MV6NJ1B0AOin-wFNpkF6Y-T8KfWmi-zSefFA615Ty4tBVTJxJUqZ5q1k9ak.y4ukhNvK9_Jkp4Iwb2-ggcEEQtfWNqciSWwsHCcndYY&dib_tag=se&keywords=automotive%2Bweatherstrip%2Badhesive&qid=1722516881&sprefix=automotive%2Bweatherstrip%2Badhesive%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-4&th=1

Thanks folks. Seeing that shield part is “only” $127 at my ford dealer makes me think I can confirm with them that it is correct and mostly complete to replace the shield that is missing and before ordering deal with the salvage yard nearby. We have lots of salt and dirt roads here so buying new might be the good option. Now I wonder where the shield I pictured above attached, if it in fact did? When I sign in to Ford Parts the browser leads me to a circular path of pages for sign in which fails the first time then to VIN, part number and back to confirm vehicle. I’m not impressed with Ford’s site. It should be easy enough for a caveman to do it. Yes I do resemble that remark.